A Cruisers Evolution - building the LX470 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 17, 2017
Threads
3
Messages
42
Location
Leipzig, Germany
It has been a while when I first discovered ih8mud and since then have been fascinated by all the crazy people of the forum, their knowledge and deep understanding of their rigs as well as all the home built trucks that are shown with brilliant ideas.

After more than 2 years of owning a LX470, ih8mud (at least to me) has evolved to be the most valuable source of information about my truck - even outrunning the FSM sometimes.

In return to all the information received I want to share the story of my Cruiser's evolution with you. I'll try to translate all the metric measures into US-based ones as good as I can.

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It all started way back when I was maybe 14 years old and being fascinated by the legendary durability of Land Cruisers. I ordered advertising flyers of the 100 Series and Toyota Hilux just to wrap my school books in them and whenever the lessons began to get boring, I imagined equipping the Land Cruiser of my dreams with winches, muddy tires and all that kind of adventurous stuff.

Back in 2017 I finally had the chance to fulfill that dream of buying a 100 Series. I had searched the web for Land Cruisers for some months but only ran into the more common 1HD-FTE Diesels, often with significantly more than 200tsd miles on the clock.
Considering the fact that due to rather strict emmission regulations in Germany it might be difficult to legally enter some cities with the old fashioned trusty Diesels and due to the fact that I absolutely love the sound of a petrol V8, I skipped the 1HD models.
While Diesel Cruisers outnumber the Petrol ones by 25 to 1 or something in Europe there had been no more than six 2UZ-powered trucks all over Western and Southern Europe for sale over a period of maybe half a year. Most of them were in pretty bad shape with rather high milage or bad service history.

I finally and by accident found a 2005 LX470 in pretty good shape as one could tell from all the photos. The truck had been imported from the US and had been serviced in Bukarest (Romania) as the Company Car of a Managing Director its whole life. I doubt it has ever seen rough tracks off the beaten paths. It had all the options available except for HUD but came with Night Vision instead. After clarifying all the details the seller offered to drive the Cruiser 1000 miles through Europe on his own expense so I could inspect it in Germany.
Cristian managed to get around 17 to 18 miles to the gallon, which is about the same consumption I am achieving today while driving overland.
After he crossed 4 countries in 2 days I layed eyes on that beauty for the first time.
I was stunned by the looks and size, I loved the interior and I was scared to test drive that monster on the narrow german roads... I discovered some minor faults and repaired damage to the bumpers but somehow it did not make me nervous about the rest of the structure of the car as all lines and gaps still matched well. The passenger side crash box has a small indentation but till date I discovered no issues other than that so I'm fine with it.

Two hours later and I was on my way to drive my very first, new to me Land Cruiser to a company called UScars24. These guys had more than 40 old and new American Muscle Cars in their garage, more than 20 of those being Mustangs from the 60s... I was pretty impressed. They proved to be experts when it comes to registration of US cars in the german market and under german law even if they might not be called cheap.
Although being in the European Union, Romanian authorities seem to be completely okay with having cars registered that come with US-Spec lighting and features. Unfortunatelly the German Technical Inspection Agencies are pretty complicated when it comes to emissions and lighting.
Being a US-Spec Cruiser, emissions were no problem at all (as would have been with UAE ones), but in terms of lighting, I had to add a rear fog light and get the low beam head lights completely build up with new Hella "E"-stamped projector lenses. I don't know the type of lens they put in for sure but to summ it up, I payed a little fortune of 3800$ to get all the paperwork, license and the lighting done before I picked it up 2 weeks later. That way let's say the first mod took place even before i got the license plates on...

At that time she had done 102k miles, was running excelent and smooth and while I still had to discover all the features of my car I enjoyed people staring at the truck all the time when going by or starting the engine in the parking lot. On the 300 miles drive home the tension slowly fell of from me and I came to realise it would be the start of some big project that I had long been dreaming of.

In August 2017 this is what she looked like in good company.

It did not take too long before I began working on the Lexus...


Regards, Ruben

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Awesome and welcome, look forward to the build. Side note, I have family in Auerbach and have visited Leipzig a few times beautiful city.
 
And so the story continues... (to the ones who are just keen on all the upgrading and more serious build stuff: just be patient... there is a lot more to come shortly ;) )

I was owning the LX just shy of 4 weeks when time had come to go on a trip to Scandinavia I had planned some time ago. I had been a little affraid I might eventually run into mechanical problems while driving the new to me car so far from home, but that turned out to be just in my mind. Although I previously owned nothing but Toyotas and Lexus'es that had never let me down, I had to be convinced by the trustiness of the Cruiser.
She had no difficulty at all to do so and in no time I felt like I had a kind of invincible car (with some achilles' heels to take good care of) that will get me there and brings me back for sure.

First "Mod" on my own: get her some new wipers... In german language we have a quite fancy word for this kind of wiper as they are called 'Flachbalkenwischer'. When thinking about them, I realised there is no such word in english, so I'll stick to the term "Bosch Aerotwin" which are adding to the stylish looks of the LX and helps pretending the truck isn't that old :grinpimp:. So far they held up pretty well for 3 years now and I'm rather happy with them although I recently realised the rubber is getting a little stiffer.

In terms of the trip, plans were to sleep in the back of the truck during and driving round the country as independently from official campsites as possible.
I thought it was a good idea to improvise a sleeping platform to stow away my gear beneath.
I came up with some drain pipe as pillars and wooden beams to create support for three sheets of plywood, conected by piano hinges.

This platform was rectangular and implicated open sides where everything fell of into the unknown depth of the 100's huge cargo area, beams being in the way of the luggage, reaching and searching for burried stuff left me with feeling like a real pain in the a***, ... I could carry on endlessly with how annoyed but somehow happy I felt with that setup but that might refer to the fact I am an 'engineer of vehicle construction' with a lot of fascination for aftermarket/DIY solutions that appear to be OEM stuff because they are as well engineered as they are manufactured, blending in the shapes and function of the car.

With the little time given, I wasn't able to build something more sophisticated and I thought I'd be happier if I'd just leave and go for a ride, instead of contemplating my first poor attempt.
Friday came and I found myself on my way to the annual Buschtaxi-Meeting that is said to be the biggest Land Cruiser Meeting in the world - right in the heart of Germany. It was my first visit to the event and I can say it is a lovely family meet and greet I can recomend to everyone who should (by accident) be in the country at that time of year (September 13th-15th 2020). It is organized by the founder of buschtaxi.org, which over time turned out to be the second most usefull source in my search for information on the 100-Series.

I was overwhelmed by all the fantastic cars and felt quite small with my factory trim LX between all those hardcore travelers and offroaders. Big MudTerrains, LED bars, camper conversions, winches, ... all that cool stuff you could dream of wherever you turned your head.
1 Week(end) of camping, slide shows, travelling information, workshops, roaring engines, beautiful restoration projects and a whoping 1000 Land Cruisers of every age and condition gathered on one single campsite.

I left on Sunday evening with a swirling head, vagrant thoughts and the feeling of having fallen in love with a beautiful girl in her Mitsubishi pickup with truckbed cabin.
Well, it did not turned out to be a happily ever after with that lovely girl but I kept telling myself: hey, at least I've got a Cuiser by my side... and I made good use of it, cruising along the asphalt strips heading north.

I went on to reach the very top of Denmark, kayaking the North and Baltic Sea, enjoyed camping and driving the sandy beaches of that beautiful country. Some days later I found myself exploring the south of Sweden and discovered a weak battery when I was the farthest away from home - nearly 1400 miles and several days of traveling...

I think this journey had a huge impact on how I looked at my 100-Series. I had to get jump-started twice in the middle of nowhere, had to make sure all the door lights and interieur lights stay out as much as they could, got to know the meaning of pitch black when there are no white stripes on the tarmac and you are out in the swedish woods in a rainstorm, barely seeing where you drive with the rather weak light output of the factory bulbs, was having an almost flat tire due to a leaking valve and having no gauge to check on a regular basis, found no campsite to take a shower so I took the lake at 40°F to wash my hair, wind blew out my stove on a regular basis due to the lack of a deflector... Water, electricity and food gained significance rapidly.

I finished that trip of 3200 miles with a huge grin on my face, as the cruiser has brought me home although it taught me some good lessons.


Returning home I made a lot of plans on how to equip my LX to be better suited for those kind of holidays.
Unfortuantely, if there should be a God, he had a lot to laugh at that time... mostly about me making plans.

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Windshield wipers are a mod now?View attachment 2194971

I mean WOW, you did not know that it's a super important high quality MOD??? :eek: :hmm:

The actual reason (and only downside of owning a LX470 over the LC100) I do remeber this one is because it's not such easy thing (at least if you are new to that kind of 'workaround') as going to a car parts shop and get yourself a pair of wipers. No ordinary shop will order parts for a LX here in Germany as this car has not been on sale at Lexus Europe/Germany. It had taken me quite a bit to get the right part numbers from Toyodiy's parts reference for the LC100, crosschecking if it matches the LX, then finding an appropriate aerotwin that substitutes the original parts number, ordering it, picking it up from the dealer, ... definetely not the first time I'm enviously looking at US car parts websites wondering how easy you can go on that...
 
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After making plans on how to build a drawer system and hot water shower system and lighting system and dual battery system and air compressor system and fridge system and sleeping platform system and... I ran into time issues while workload increased dramatically and finally was forced to pause after a serious injury.

I had to rethink some of the projects and started to make up my mind on the drawer system first.
I wanted the drawers to make the most out of the space available so very small gaps between the housing and drawers should be achieved, yet being light enough and flexible not to crack under 'normal' conditions and without the need to upgrade the trucks suspension just because I put some 1" plywood as sliders-sides in there...

I took measurements of all the anchor points in the cargo area of the LX as well as max outer dimensions that would fit in between the wheel wells. I did not like the idea of having a fridge on top of the platform while sleeping so it had to go inside the drawers too.
I tried my old platform with different heights to determine the maximum height I should go with for still having sort of comfortable headspace and enough room to get dressed for example. I ended up rather high compared to drawers from ARB, Dobinsons and the like.

I started to create 3D drawings of all the seperate parts in SolidWorks so I could check how they all come together.

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I was kidding. I work with a bunch of German engineers and reading your post I’m picturing them at a meeting. I’m betting you are an engineer as well🤔
 
I was kidding. I work with a bunch of German engineers and reading your post I’m picturing them at a meeting. I’m betting you are an engineer as well🤔

Guess I can't hide that kind of studies and passion in everyday life :grinpimp: especially when it comes to cars.
 
While I was designing the drawer system and ordering all the parts that I had been researching for months, I thought it was time to do some mild cosmetics and give the LX a little wash. Unfortunately the rear plastic roof rack cover (63494-60070-C0 "COVER, ROOF RACK LEG, REAR LH") decided to come loose and getting burried somewhere in the car wash. Since I had discovered earlier it has had some broken clip-pockets and would not hold on there forever, I was about getting a new one. After ordering from Toyota, I at least for a moment believed it must be gold plated from the inside as it cost me just shy of 90$... :bang: Nevertheless the new cover had a pretty snug fit compared to the old one and I was satisfied with the result.

I like the looks of the headlights on the LX but from my point of view that crome grill does not fit the car right as it always reminded me of the 120 series LandCruiser. The way the head lights and grill are formed on the LC100, contributes to a much wider appearance instead of adding 'size' in heigth as with the Lexus. Before painting the radiator grill I tried different looks with black masking tape. Regrettably I took no photos that day. I ended up aplying a good coat of black Plastidip to all the parts that were crome plated but by masking the kind of 'umbra-grey' areas avoided getting it all blacked out. Due to the fact Plastidip forms a rubber-like layer, demasking without tear-outs was a lot more difficult than I imagined and I made good use of a razor blade but couldn't get away without some minor defects.
Unmounting the radiator grill from the hood for painting made handling a lot easier!
As Plastidip is said to 'cure' or harden rather slowly I was affraid of the grill being stripped of, so I since then skipped the industrial car wash most of the time. Now after 1,5 years I am pretty confident the Plastidip would hold up to some serious rubbing although I did not sand the crome before applying.
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As the automatic antenna was a little wobbly and kinked I ordered an aftermarket replacement mast (86337-60151 "rod & pipe, sealed w/cable) of ebay and tried to get the exchange done without having to unbolt the whole assembly beneath the fender. I tried to loosen the flat crown nut (86396-89102 "nut, antenna") on top of the rubber-plastic-compound grommet (86392-60150 "ornament, antenna") but ended up shearing the top of the nut of, leaving the brittle, crumbly shaft trapped between the grommet and the mast housing. Piece by piece i pried out the remains with different tiny tools that i could find while ensuring no pieces might fall into the housing by carefully pluging the opening. After attempting to do so for maybe 3 hours, I had damaged the upper treads of the housings shaft pipe pretty badly and managed to get rid of all the tiny metall (zinc die casting?) bits. Afterwards I finally was able to pull the grommet to get it replaced, recut the damaged threads with a needle file and screw on a newly purchased crown nut. Inserting the new mast by shutting off the stereo so the cable would automatically get wound up inside the antenna housing seemed like an easy job then. I added a little grease to that nylon tooth cable and anti-seize to the nut this time. Man I had been happy once that thing was back in place and fully functioning!!
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Maybe I would have done better if I used some penetrating oil in advance of disassembly or maybe I could have used it without any advantage as the zinc seemed to be almost soldered to the steel thread by contact corrosion.

Checking the Cruisers drivetrain, I discovered a ripped drivers side steering boot (45535-60010 "BOOT, STEERING RACK, NO.2"). I started cutting of the old boot and a pretty big amount (4-5 fl. oz.) of steering fluid poured over my hands from its inside. I checked the level of steering fluid and realized the level being too low. After some research I was pretty much affraid I had to pull the whole steering assembly/gear and get it exchanged for 3k$ :(
I found some guys on the web who had tried adding different fluids to the steering fluid to get rid of the leaking oil seal on the steering rod. Without believing they might safe me some money I temporarily put on a new steering boot and bought some Dexron III steering fluid to fill up the reservoir. Somehow, the level of steering fluid til date never dropped a single bit again for 2 years and 12k miles but I am having an eye on the fluid level. I'm not sure if I should do a fluid flush on the system or keep it as is at the moment in accordance to the saying 'never touch a running system'. Maybe I'm a little bit concerned the leaking might come back if I flush the system.
 
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DRAWERS

I wanted to keep the drawers as light as possible without sacrificing necessary stability. I studied the slider system of DRIFTA from Australia with teflon runners (instead of telescopic slides) as they call them although they use some kind of HD-PE if I remember right. I got myself some strips of PTFE (Teflon) with 25% carbon which turns the teflon from white to black and increases durability. It might be the same material that is used for air compressor piston rings like in Viair or ARB models for example. The strips are 25mm wide and 3mm thick (1" x 1/8") and they do run the whole length of the drawer.

I decided to go with 6mm Multiplex-Plywood for the sides of the drawers and 10mm for the bottoms as well as for the whole frame / platform. Pocket screws were no option with that thin plywood so I decided to go the old fashioned route with dado housings and dovetail joints.
The width of the drawers were dictated by the fridge that I wanted to incorporate into the drawers.
I wanted the fridge to be in the rear of the car without being in the way while using the sleeping platform which is why I had to come up with a concept of putting it below the top of the platform.
A drawer fridge seemed to be the ideal solution and I went with the (Waeco) Dometic CD30.
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That fridge has a capacity of 30 liters, cools down to just shy above freezing and was besides the equivalent Engel SB30 the only fridge that is flat enough to fit into the system while having 25+liter of storage.
The compressor can be mounted up to 1m/3feet away from the fridge itself which added to a better weight distribution inside the kitchen-fridge-drawer.
Unfortunately I did not make any pictures of the kitchen drawer in progress so I only can share a 3D-Design of it.
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The kitchen drawer was designed to be as narrow as possible with full height. It contains the fridge, gas cartriges, the two burner stove and pots and pans plus cuttlery as well as bottles of oil an the like. I plan on relocating the water filter for drinking water in here too but we will come to that later.
I ended up with a box that is 930 x 354 x 458mm LHW [roughly 36.6 x 14.1 x 18.0 inches].

The teflon strips are directly screwed to the 10mm panel acting as lateral guides and for taking up the loads of the drawer as well.
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For the other two drawers, the teflons are really great as everything slides really easy while being incredibly light, simple and room effective. For the heavy kitchen drawer (fully loaded ending up at 60-70kg (130-150lbs)) the slides do work, but it takes a little more effort to get it in and out so I plan on incorporating telescopic slide-outs this year. The advantage of the teflon strips not taking much space is somehow backfiring on me at the current stage as I can not add slides to the side of the fridge - they simply won't fit with the design I chose back then. Nevertheless I maybe already came up with a workaround...

EDIT March 2020: I finally got the teflon slides of the kitchen drawer working perfectly!! There had been some friction of the drawer to the side of the platform and some milk paint that was stuck on the teflon which created enough drag so the drawer would hardly come out. Now fully tuned and with help of a tiny bit of silicone spray, the drawer slides in with ease on two fingers and I can highly recommend this type of sliders even for heavier drawers!

All drawers should be rattle free by use of compression latches which double as handles. That worked out quite well for all three of them.
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I used hand tools only for that job and I am more than happy with the result. The dovetails in 6mm ply are surprisingly strong and even the recessed lap joint for the transition between bottom and side panels turned out absolutely up to the task. I glued the panels together once they were prefabricated. Neither nails nor screws were or had to be used.
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In the back of the drawers I added a wooden pocket to each corner, glued in, drilled through the panel and fitted a furniture damper on each side.
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I found these Airtic Dampers from ebay. They are really small (8mm in diameter) but do a good job, softening the blow when sliding the drawer in a little too harsh. That little black pin is everything that is protruding until you compress it.
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Thanks a lot! Actually the height above the wheel wells might be the one measurement that I have never taken :hmm:

My setup is going to be a bit higher than most others, because I wanted to have more room inside the drawers instead of stuff laying on top of the platform.
The heigth in total is 380mm [15"] which if I do remember right is exactly at the height of the lower tail gates middle section.
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That way the platform is quite few cm above the 2nd row seats when folded down. I came up with an idea on how not to rely on the seats for supporting the platform once extended for sleeping. I will come back to that topic a little later:clap:
 
Every mm that was left in width between the wheel wells and that was not already blocked by the kitchen drawer, went into the two flat drawers on the left side. They are 160mm and 150mm in height, same depth like the kitchen drawer (930mm) and 595mm wide [5.9/6.3" x 36.6" x 23.4"].
One is intended to be stuffed with clothes, while the other is for food (predominantly) and gear.


To keep the drawers from falling out when pulled too far, I include a locking pin at least for the upper drawer that locks at around 6 or 7 inches left. The other two don't necessarily need these pins as they slightly rest on the lower tailgate when drawn.
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As clothes are not as heavy as gear and food, that drawer goes on top. It is self supporting until you draw it out even further intentionally by pulling the locking pin. If you are good at packing, vanity bags and normal travel clothing for two adults for two weeks can easily be stowed away as volume is more than a big sports bag. Any bulkier items like winter gear could/might have to go into a roof box...

I gave the two drawers some coats of orange (color named 'pumpkin') milkpaint and sealed it with "Safecoat" which is a PU-varnish.
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On the inside and front, I added grey velour carpet and some anti-slip foam matting to the bottom so stuff will not shift. Maybe I'll add carpet to the bottom sometime in the future as it gives a much better feel. The soft orange and dark grey match the color sheme of the LX pretty well and I am happy how it turned out.

The kitchen drawer received some blue milkpaint and will be shown soon as well as the carpeting job.
 
PLATFORM

Building the sleeping platform, I took a slightly different approach.
Again I used 10mm plywood but combined it with aluminum profiles. I searched the web and stumbled across co called 'flight cases'. These are boxes for transporting music and camery equipment safely from stage to stage. They are made from plywood or other tough panels, joined together bei inserting the edges into aluminium profiles for added durability and ease of building. Going that route means, the outside walls of the profile would not be flush with the wood.
I did not like the idea too much so I purchased case maker beams for 9mm plates, adding a 10mm plywood by recessing one side for about 1mm to accomplish a nearly flush appearance on the inside of the framework.
I connected the bottom and top panel with the sides by use of these flight case profiles. The vertical as well as the two horizontal dividers were fabricated with dado joints, glued and held in place by some screws until fully dried.
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Wherever a drawer was intended to slide in, the bottom panel of the frame received two strips of teflon, set flush to the surface of the plywood for not loosing any height and two strips only slightly recessed would protrude 2mm to act as lateral guidance for the drawer. These strips were screwed and glued to the panels.
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