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- #141
Poll. Do you think the Techron killed my fuel pump?
My 05 LX470 build thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter roadsalt
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As an aside, the OEM "constant-tension" clamps are superior to worm-gear type: they don't dig/cut the hose in the same way, and they maintain their tension throughout a range of temperatures/pressures. I'd suggest that the worm gear clamps are at least part of the problem.
The cooling system on these vehicles has a lot of extra capacity from the factory, but if ignored over time becomes the weak link for engine longevity. If it happens at speed, you won't know that you've blown a hose/tee/rad etc. until it's too late (warped heads).
IMO, given the age of these vehicles, one should expect to replace every coolant hose, clamp, radiator, and t-stat with OEM as part of baselining, if not already done.
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- #143
Poll. Do you think the Techron killed my fuel pump
Also, a new wheel lock was $40 flat
Got a jug of pink stuff from Toyota for $23. I think I got the nice guy discount.
Also, a new wheel lock was $40 flat
Nope, not at all. Good stuff
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- #145
Fun question. So after my AHC was removed, and before I took out the control & ECU for it, I had a stupid moment where I pressed the AHC button.......... I'm guessing the heim joint extended and thats causing my clunk. I still have this bracket intact. Should I remove it to try and relieve my clunk?
GTV
SILVER Star
Pressing the button did nothing. That was a ride height sensor, go ahead and remove it.
Looks like old cv grease. When a boot lets go it'll sling it everywhere, and there's a lot of it.
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- #149
Sorry that’s not a pic of my truck. I was watching videos about the part that I suspected to be the issue
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- #150
Dropped it off at the mechanic. Two distinct sounds. A clunk- he thinks a wheel bearing, despite the PO saying it was replaced 2019, and only 1000 miles put on since, and a clink, unknown.
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- #151
As suspected, a bad wheel bearing. Going to let him do that for me, and the clink sound was the AHC stuff rattling, and a heat shield.
Odd that a wheel bearing failed after less than 5 years and only about 1000 miles . Sometimes I feel like the maintenance records I got were a little lacking. Live and learn....
Odd that a wheel bearing failed after less than 5 years and only about 1000 miles . Sometimes I feel like the maintenance records I got were a little lacking. Live and learn....
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- #152
Mechanic called me. Stabilizer bar is rusted out. Sway bar links are just hanging out there. Thanks a lot P.O.
Surface rust my ass!
Surface rust my ass!
Big deal!
As long as you have no-through rust solid frame and body, the rest is just a matter of money and elbow grease.
Once you have rusty frame or body, thats a LOT of money and a MASTODONTICO amount of work.
Speaking of rust.
Everyone who has 100 series knows what are those:
Got it used, in excellent shape. Sandblasted, painted with mastercoat and permatex on top.
Next step is to install it.
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- #155
What is that?
Just had to stop in and say I love the name "roadsalt" I think that is hilarious, living in Boston I am also aware of the road salt lmao
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- #157
Hah thank you.
Fuel tank protector with bands that holding the fuel tank in place.
And rear bumper upper support.
I also have lower support (not on pics).
Those parts usually rusted all the way through. For some unknown for me reason those stamped sheets of metal cost new like a Boeing.
This is how it usually looks on the truck:
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- #160
Oh, that I recognize !
