That recall has some potential obstacles. You should search the forum for the commentary.
A Cheap Ass Rescues a 62
- Thread starter Prairie Swamp
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Yeah. Basically, good luck with that. I hope you get it.
- Thread starter
- #23
If they still have parts available they HAVE to fix it.
- Thread starter
- #25
It used to be (When I worked for Ford in their Customer Service Division) that a safety recall was for life of vehicle and they were legally obligated to provide parts and labor and perform the repair. Maybe things have changed or maybe there's a loophole where they declare the vehicle not road worthy or something.
It is listed on the Toyota website as needing the work so I'll do some follow up.
Thanks,
Eric
It is listed on the Toyota website as needing the work so I'll do some follow up.
Thanks,
Eric
- Thread starter
- #26
OK have a call in to the dealer service department waiting on a call back. We'll see what they have to say. Have to go on the road for a bit here.
This from the Toyota website (entered my VIN).
Eric
This from the Toyota website (entered my VIN).
Eric
- Thread starter
- #27
Dealer wanted to schedule the warranty repair for later this week. I had to put them off a little as it's not quite road worthy. So in my case at least it looks like the real deal. I'll believe it when I have a new tank.
Eric
Eric
- Thread starter
- #28
OK so when I bought this thing it had to crank and crank cold before it would start. Once warmed up it started a lot easier (not surprisingly.)
It sat outside for awhile while I cleaned and organized barns to make room for the new orphan. As I recall it still started hard when I went to move it into the barn. I did do a pretty thorough going through on the fuel system. I'm assuming fuel is flowing freely enough as it seemingly had no problem going 60 MPH down the road on the way home.
Checked the fuel pressure per the FSM and it was right on the money. Checked the function of the cold start injector system and that seemed OK. No obvious vacuum leaks but you never know.
So once in the barn I'm getting ready to do compression check and valve adjustment. Now IIRC is was in the high 20s F in the barn and it seemed to start much easier - maybe due to the contribution of the cold start injector? Don't know. Anyway compression numbers are surprisingly good for 360K miles if you believe them. The battery was fully charged but weak I think.
The range of compression is not the best but I expected lower numbers. Do these things build up a bunch of carbon that could be propping up my numbers? I don't have a scope. From what I can see in the spark plug holes the cylinders are filthy.
Valve clearance was also surprisingly good. Once again I expected worse. I though I heard a tick during warm up (hard to hear with no exhaust) so maybe that was number 12 valve somewhere over .030" clearance. Yes I set these cold but I'll come back and check later anyway.
The rocker box is disgusting.
I'm not pulling the head right now but that bothers me.
PCV system completely plugged up stem to stern.
I had to burn that carbon out of the metal PCV pipe. Now I'm a big fan of "While you're in there....". I've read some here that have a different point of view but that's how I roll. I'm never in a hurry to get a project done. Soooo...as Dave (KAWAZX636) over at Yotatech says.....bakin' cookies.
The valve cover is very much part of the PCV system and that too is completely plugged - all the passages between the inner and outer stamping. I can just hear the old man now. "What? You don't have time to homebrew but you have time to hot tank your 3FE valve cover?".....or something like that.
So down the rabbit hole we go. More to follow.
Eric
It sat outside for awhile while I cleaned and organized barns to make room for the new orphan. As I recall it still started hard when I went to move it into the barn. I did do a pretty thorough going through on the fuel system. I'm assuming fuel is flowing freely enough as it seemingly had no problem going 60 MPH down the road on the way home.
Checked the fuel pressure per the FSM and it was right on the money. Checked the function of the cold start injector system and that seemed OK. No obvious vacuum leaks but you never know.
So once in the barn I'm getting ready to do compression check and valve adjustment. Now IIRC is was in the high 20s F in the barn and it seemed to start much easier - maybe due to the contribution of the cold start injector? Don't know. Anyway compression numbers are surprisingly good for 360K miles if you believe them. The battery was fully charged but weak I think.
The range of compression is not the best but I expected lower numbers. Do these things build up a bunch of carbon that could be propping up my numbers? I don't have a scope. From what I can see in the spark plug holes the cylinders are filthy.
Valve clearance was also surprisingly good. Once again I expected worse. I though I heard a tick during warm up (hard to hear with no exhaust) so maybe that was number 12 valve somewhere over .030" clearance. Yes I set these cold but I'll come back and check later anyway.
The rocker box is disgusting.
I'm not pulling the head right now but that bothers me.
PCV system completely plugged up stem to stern.
I had to burn that carbon out of the metal PCV pipe. Now I'm a big fan of "While you're in there....". I've read some here that have a different point of view but that's how I roll. I'm never in a hurry to get a project done. Soooo...as Dave (KAWAZX636) over at Yotatech says.....bakin' cookies.
The valve cover is very much part of the PCV system and that too is completely plugged - all the passages between the inner and outer stamping. I can just hear the old man now. "What? You don't have time to homebrew but you have time to hot tank your 3FE valve cover?".....or something like that.
So down the rabbit hole we go. More to follow.
Eric
rrv333
SILVER Star
Great progress - glad the engine is tight.
Oh yes, I'm liking this.
- Thread starter
- #32
OK so this little exercise started out as simply trying to get this thing to start easier when cold. Of course any one who's fooled around with such things is fully aware of the concept of "mission creep."
So while I'm in there better look at the throttle body.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) is the work of satan.
OK cleaned up.
I did take the time to calibrate the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Based in the yellow paint I don't think it had ever been disturbed but I did have to rotate is about 1mm relative to the mounting screws to get it in calibration if I measured it right. After 360K miles it's very possible something was worn or weak inside. What a touchy setting: Infinite resistance with a .032" shim under the stop screw and "some" resistance with a .040" shim under the screw (Don't quote me there going from memory. Always refer to the FSM.)
As I mentioned before I'm not pulling the head at this time so I'm obviously not pulling that intake plenum/runners for a cleaning. I've done lots more just have to get the pics uploaded. More to follow. Thanks for looking.
Eric
So while I'm in there better look at the throttle body.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) is the work of satan.
OK cleaned up.
I did take the time to calibrate the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Based in the yellow paint I don't think it had ever been disturbed but I did have to rotate is about 1mm relative to the mounting screws to get it in calibration if I measured it right. After 360K miles it's very possible something was worn or weak inside. What a touchy setting: Infinite resistance with a .032" shim under the stop screw and "some" resistance with a .040" shim under the screw (Don't quote me there going from memory. Always refer to the FSM.)
As I mentioned before I'm not pulling the head at this time so I'm obviously not pulling that intake plenum/runners for a cleaning. I've done lots more just have to get the pics uploaded. More to follow. Thanks for looking.
Eric
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
I think your idea that comp #'s are artificially increased due to carbon build up is very possible, but not across all cylinders. The 3FE's PCV dumps back into the head/valve train between 3-4 or 4-5, so maybe that's why #3 is highest.
These simple motors run quite well down to 100 psi, as long as there's little variance.
BTW, from the looks of your work so far, that ole gal sure lucked out...she's gonna get some long needed gooood luvin'.
These simple motors run quite well down to 100 psi, as long as there's little variance.
BTW, from the looks of your work so far, that ole gal sure lucked out...she's gonna get some long needed gooood luvin'.
- Thread starter
- #34
Thanks for the compliment and thanks for the insight on the PCV system. I hadn't really thought of an uneven distribution of the crankcase vapors across cylinders. I guess pulling the head would correct the carbon build up, but do I rebuild the bottom end at the same time or.... For now get it driving good and work on the mechanical systems. That will give me plenty of time to think about the powertrain.
Eric
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
What are the plans for the interior? Any more pics?
- Thread starter
- #36
As far as the interior goes it's largely complete. I can't really grab any good pics as it's full of parts and sits in the corner of the barn as shown in the first post. I'll get more pics this weekend once it's back running and outside.
I like the vintage look and have a high tolerance for pain so I'm good with OEM seats and a noisy interior. My only issue with the seats is of course a tear on the left side of the drivers bottom cushion. I just bought a passenger seat cover and foam from a member that will make the seats complete. There are a few small pieces broken/missing and of course the master window switch is one of them. There is no carpet in the cargo area but my plans are bed liner there anyway. Headliner and pillar trim looks nice enough.
I need to pull the seats and give everything a good scrub outside in nice weather. I'll have a better idea of true condition then but I'm guessing it mostly stays stock for now. I love the dash. Seems guys get excited about replacement side panels in the cargo area and I have the tools to make them out of aluminum (or stainless or plastic) if I choose down the road.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
Not vapors, oil blow-by through the PCV would coke up that area. I wouldn't rebuild the bottom end or even pull the head, myself. The rebuild kits are disproportionately expensive (compared to SBC and other domestic stuff) on these motors. I'd do all fluids, belts, hoses, brakes, etc. and drive that ole gal. Whether you pull the head or not (but a sight easier to reach if head is out) search "oil galley plug" and see if it was done or not, if it wasn't then it's important to add that up high on the to-do list.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks. Yep I've learned about that plug by reading on here. I've got a 1/16" pipe plug ready to go. That rusty water pipe is in the way so if it needs done I'll tackle it when I go through the cooling system.
So the last thing to clean up on the PCV system is the steel elbow that threads into the intake plenum. In order to spin it to get it out not only does the cold start injector need to come out but also the EGR injector thingy assembly. Sooooooo...
Who da thunk that a Kawasaki KLR650 rotor bolt wrench would come in handy on a FJ62.
The tutorials suggest plugging the hole in the exhaust with a 3/4" NPT plug and that's what I did. But just for reference/curiosity that fitting that is OEM is actually a 26mm-2.0 compression union. The thing is that 26mm thread form doesn't even exist in the Machinery Handbook - jumps straight from 25 to 27mm. Maybe Toyota did this because it's emissions related and they wanted to make it tamper resistant.
In any event I could have made a 26mm plug, but there was no way I'm getting a 26-2.0 tap anywhere. So the hole is close enough to be ready to tap for 3/4" NPT as others have found so that's what I did.
Done.
Overall much cleaner.
Eric
- Thread starter
- #39
Houston we have a problem.
I was going to fab one of these but for the money it just doesn't make sense even for me. What a great piece of hardware.
Mirrors from Cruiser Corps to get me legal. Can be blacked out anytime.
Was this someone's idea of a workaround for a totally plugged PCV system or just spot welds gone really wrong?
Columbia Coatings Super Durable Mirror Black
I was going to fab one of these but for the money it just doesn't make sense even for me. What a great piece of hardware.
Mirrors from Cruiser Corps to get me legal. Can be blacked out anytime.
Was this someone's idea of a workaround for a totally plugged PCV system or just spot welds gone really wrong?
Columbia Coatings Super Durable Mirror Black
daaaang
And I say keep the mirrors chrome
And I say keep the mirrors chrome
