Builds A Brown 60 (1 Viewer)

[SAH]

I recently did a cool trade with @SemoLCruiser with my 71 FST and ended up with this pimpin' wagon. With 1 already and more children in our future, the 60 seems like a less selfish way for me to satisfy my hobby to piddle with old things.

I have no idea the last time this truck ran. The PPO had the air pump lock up on him so he parked it. It'll likely get de-smogged here soon. A sniper may be in the works, but not sure I can justify that premium expense on this turd.

Anyhow, with some pseudo mentoring from @Tennessee80 about frugality when it comes to assembling a truck to enjoy, I'm off to the races with high value and low budget in mind.

I got the plywood window out, replacement window in, and engine bay degreased and cleaned up today as well as drained the fuel tank. That gas identified as round-up for my gravel driveway.

Put fuel to the carb and cranked on it. No start and fuel coming out of the carb. I'll dig in more tomorrow.

I've got suspension lined up and would like some 33's or 35's in a narrower variety. I'm waiting to find the Kanati Mud Hog's in their 35 10 15, but they are seemingly unobtanium.

Here are some pictures. I largely started this thread to keep track of the progress here for myself as well as try to make some content for the great community here that I've been freeloading off of for years now.

Cheers

 

[SAH]

Some more pictures pre-clean up.

 

[SAH]

Degreased/pressure washed engine bay. Pleased with the results

 

[SAH]

End of day 1.

 

[Tennessee80]

Sweet trade, man! Looking forward to watching this 60 come alive! It's going to be a parts hunt from here on out...?

 

[Ian Crawford]

Awesome! Similar condition to mine when I got it in 2017!

Excited to follow your progress!

 

[SAH]

Well, I got the brake booster and associated parts out. There was no fluid in the reservoir and there's enough rust beneath the truck for me to think that I may need all new lines. I'd have bought some today, but it looks like a lot of vendors are out of stock.

I bought a pre-owned city racer double diaphragm unit so that will go in and either use master cylinder from a parts truck I have or buy new units. Likely try the former first.

I pulled the carb fan and decided I'll be pulling all of the emissions garbage as well in the near future.

Lastly, I was swapping out the rear glass to a better hatch that PO provided with the truck. I got just a hair too impatient and tried to pull the glass after removing >75% of the weatherstripping.... and then.....

 

[Jamieson22]

Look how beautiful that paint is!!!

 

[Tennessee80]

Gonna be a sweet truck, @SAH

 

[SAH]

Got a lot accomplished today. Kinda ended up going down a rabbit hole as far as stripping things off the motor, but that turned out to be a good thing. With the amount of trash that I found in the water pump I am pretty scared about an oil cooler failure coming sooner rather than later.

When removing smog things, the rust bit me in the butt. A few cracks and broken inserts on the air rail inlets. Maybe somebody smarter than me can tell me what needs to be done about this. Thinking just a small weld to seal it up. In good news, this is a 61040 head.....

 

[SAH]

Here's a few more pictures of water pump that's getting trashed as well as the thermostat/housing

 

[SAH]

I went parts shopping in my basement and pulled an Aisin brake master cylinder and a "PAP" clutch master. This parts truck is paying dividends. Check out the old clutch master.

 

[SAH]

Here are some pictures post desmog and how the motor sits now with no WP or Rad in.

 

[Tennessee80]

@SAH good work! Looks like all of that stuff needed to be replaced. Holy crap, that water pump....!

 

[SAH]

Well, I've run into a bit of a road block. 4 of the 6 air rail inlets are rusted so badly that they look to have become one with the head. I have yet to try extraction by heat, but one of the inlets sheared off with the rail itself. I removed the carb and manifolds to be able to inspect the extent of the rust in that area today and I'm not totally sure what to think.

If anyone has opinions on what to do, I'm all ears.

Also, spending some time pondering the fueling situation. At this point, it seems that a sniper may be in my future with what it would cost to get the carb done correctly and still leave performance/ efficiency on the table.

 

[Paullus]

That looks tough getting the base of the air rail ports off. I guess I was lucky that a mix of pb blaster and heat allowed me to remove all of mine (destroyed the air rail tubing in the process). I did use a rubber mallet to bang against my socket wrench vs steady brute force.

 

[OSS]

If anyone has opinions on what to do, I'm all ears.

My air nozzles looked like that too. A likely reason everything is so rusty up there is because there’s a good chance that one of the freeze plugs on the top of the head is weeping — keeping it wet up there which creates rust.

I got all my rusted nozzles off successfully using the following method:
1. Soak the area around the nozzles with Kroil or PB-Blaster penetrant. Let soak overnight.
2. Using a socket that fits the nozzles, place it over the nozzle and begin hammering it straight down with a regular framing hammer. Steel to steel. Keep up the constant tapping to set up a vibration to crack the rust bonds between the threads (microscopically).
3. Soak the area with penetrating oil snd let soak overnight.
4. Next day, soak, then repeat the hammer tapping on all nozzles.

When its time to try unscrewing one, use a 2ft long breaker bar with a pipe extension on it so it’s about 4 feet long.

Then give the bar a turn just the tiniest bit. Tug on it back & forth. You’re trying to break the initial rust bond.
When the nozzle finally budges the tiniest bit, apply more penetrating oil and rock the nozzle back & forth. Slightly loose and slightly tight. Back & forth.

The back & forth micro movement will break more rust free and allow the penetrant to weep in deeper.
If you stopped and soaked it and tried again the next day - they’d likely come out no problem, or if you’re impatient, continue on but always use tiny back & forth motions of the wrench in the beginning.

 

[SAH]

My air nozzles looked like that too. A likely reason everything is so rusty up there is because there’s a good chance that one of the freeze plugs on the top of the head is weeping — keeping it wet up there which creates rust.

I got all my rusted nozzles off successfully using the following method:
1. Soak the area around the nozzles with Kroil or PB-Blaster penetrant. Let soak overnight.
2. Using a socket that fits the nozzles, place it over the nozzle and begin hammering it straight down with a regular framing hammer. Steel to steel. Keep up the constant tapping to set up a vibration to crack the rust bonds between the threads (microscopically).
3. Soak the area with penetrating oil snd let soak overnight.
4. Next day, soak, then repeat the hammer tapping on all nozzles.

When its time to try unscrewing one, use a 2ft long breaker bar with a pipe extension on it so it’s about 4 feet long.

Then give the bar a turn just the tiniest bit. Tug on it back & forth. You’re trying to break the initial rust bond.
When the nozzle finally budges the tiniest bit, apply more penetrating oil and rock the nozzle back & forth. Slightly loose and slightly tight. Back & forth.

The back & forth micro movement will break more rust free and allow the penetrant to weep in deeper.
If you stopped and soaked it and tried again the next day - they’d likely come out no problem, or if you’re impatient, continue on but always use tiny back & forth motions of the wrench in the beginning.

Very helpful. I've been adding PB to soak every day for 4 or 5 days now as I figure out the next move.

I'll have to keep you updated when I go for it.

 

[SAH]

A few things accomplished the last few days.


Threaded 4 nuts onto the brake booster so I feel like I accomplished something

Pulled glass from the parts truck hatch and put it into the better hatch that the PO gave me. I'm glad to have this behind me after shattering rear glass option #1. This hatch is better, some crust on passenger side bottom and a hole up top drivers side. Obligatory pictures

 

[SAH]

Also got some new gas struts pushing on the hatch. No more 2x4. Praise God

The hatch latch is pretty well seized. Sold mine off the parts truck, I’ll be on the lookout.