A bit of help from the Oil Pressure Experts Please (2 Viewers)

[BTLSHP]

Yesterday we took the Landcruiser out for about a 150 mile round trip through some elevations. When we got home and off the highway at a light the oil pressure as read by the gauge dropped to a seriously low level and the car started vibrating a bit at idle. By seriously low I mean there was space between the needle and the bottom of scale, but not much. The light was right at the gate so we pulled in and parked. As we accelerated the needle popped up to the middle.

The oil is full per the dipstick. Coolant is fine with no traces of oil and no signs of leaking underneath. I drove it today and here's the cold start pressure followed by warming and then after 4 miles of driving. We use 10w-30 Mobil One historically with a 3k mile OCI. At the last change the mechanic used a Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic blend because given the age he felt it would do better on a blend.

We are brining it in tomorrow. The mechanic is good with Toyota but admits to only having 3 of these to look after. From what I have read on the forums I will ask him to check the torque on the harmonic balancer, why this impact oil pressure I do not know but it seems to and I know that a couple of years ago he had it off to replace the oil pump and front crankshaft seals.

Any other suggestions? I will ask him to put a gauge to it and do an oil change. It has a Wix filter, so I may bring one from the dealer.

We are behind, my dad broke his hip and that is gating some things. The leak has not returned on the passenger grab bar - so either I got it cleaning the drains or it is the windshield. We are prepared to replace the windshield but need to find someone who will do it Mr. Toyota's way not Safelite's.

We have samples of new leather from Katskins and it looks sweet, we are going to check out Land Cruiser Heaven as they are only 70 miles away. We have peeked under the Roof Rack and no rust and we are coming up with a game plan to protect it with stainless hardware & O-rings. We are also thinking of a bit of Clear-Bra under the contact points.

Thanks in advance for the help

The oil is full per the dipstick. Coolant is fine with no traces of oil and no signs of leaking underneath. I drove it today and here's the cold start pressure

 

[LandLocked93]

The oil pressure gauge is more suggestive than absolute.
However, your cold start pressure as shown is lower than I'd be comfortable with.
Mine at cold start is always quite high, like your first pic. Which is logical.
The lower indication in the third pic is where mine is once warm and at idle.

Is what you are seeing out of the ordinary? If not and oil shows full on the dipstick, could just be the pressure sensor.
They aren't exactly inexpensive to replace (easy diy tho) but you're in no danger of engine damage imo.

 

[BTLSHP]

The oil pressure gauge is more suggestive than absolute.
However, your cold start pressure as shown is lower than I'd be comfortable with.
Mine at cold start is always quite high, like your first pic. Which is logical.
The lower indication in the third pic is where mine is once warm and at idle.

Is what you are seeing out of the ordinary? If not and oil shows full on the dipstick, could just be the pressure sensor.
They aren't exactly inexpensive to replace (easy diy tho) but you're in no danger of engine damage imo.

The odd experience was the rough idle at the light. Normally this car has almost zero vibration from the engine at hot idle. This when combine with the very low gauge is the source of anxiety. We tend to think of this engine as the ultimate in smooth at idle. The comparative group is a 2020 Volvo V90, 2006 Audi A6 and a 2002 ES 300. We are not experts, we just know what is abnormal.

No lights at all on the dash.

 

[BILT4ME]

My concern is it has a WIX filter on it. Those are known to kill these engines.

You're not looking at a blown head gasket, you're looking at spun rod bearings.

Make sure your mechanic gets a flowing sample of oil in a CLEAN container so you can send it off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. This container can be a piss cup from the doctor, or a mason jar. Something with a lid. Then order your Blackstone kit and pour that sample into their cup and send it in. Best $35 youl spend for peace of mind on this.

 

[BTLSHP]

My concern is it has a WIX filter on it. Those are known to kill these engines.

You're not looking at a blown head gasket, you're looking at spun rod bearings.

Make sure your mechanic gets a flowing sample of oil in a CLEAN container so you can send it off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. This container can be a piss cup from the doctor, or a mason jar. Something with a lid. Then order your Blackstone kit and pour that sample into their cup and send it in. Best $35 youl spend for peace of mind on this.

Yikes, ok. So I stop by he deal and pick-up a Toyota filter. I have ordered the kit. I have no clue what a spun bearing are but....hopefully not. The Wix is a one time affair

 

[BILT4ME]

Yikes, ok. So I stop by he deal and pick-up a Toyota filter. I have ordered the kit. I have no clue what a spun bearing are but....hopefully not. The Wix is a one time affair

Spun bearings are the heart of the rotating mass of the crankshaft, rods, and pistons. If you spin a bearing, it's bottom end rebuild time. $$$$$.00

 

[BTLSHP]

Spun bearings are the heart of the rotating mass of the crankshaft, rods, and pistons. If you spin a bearing, it's bottom end rebuild time. $$$$$.00

Got it and reading. I will be an optimist. Car has never been low on oil. It has never overheated or towed more that a 4'x6' trailer of fire wood. It did a ton of getting places in the mountains with chains and pulled more than one car out of ditches. For the last few years it has been semi retired with only a few miles a week and periodic trips by me.

 

[BILT4ME]

Got it and reading. I will be an optimist. Car has never been low on oil. It has never overheated or towed more that a 4'x6' trailer of fire wood. It did a ton of getting places in the mountains with chains and pulled more than one car out of ditches. For the last few years it has been semi retired with only a few miles a week and periodic trips by me.

But it only takes one WIX oil filter and about ten minutes to create a beautiful boat anchor.

 

[COYS]

FWIW, my og 278k mile engine, which burned about a quart every 2-2.5k, sat at the same oil pressure as yours warmed up in the span of 50k miles. Zero oddities until it seeped coolant near cyl 6.

My brand new 1FZ-FE from zero miles, having not added a single drop of engine oil now at 24k miles, sits slightly above half way between the same notches fully warmed up.

Good luck!

 

[Shipwreck]

Don't panic yet. If this was just a one time occurrence I would test the resistance at the oil sender or just replace it.
Follow all the previous advice about testing oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, send a sample to Blackstone and replace the Wix filter with a Toyota.

 

[LandLocked93]

Ok, step by step it is.

Yesterday we took the Landcruiser out for about a 150 mile round trip through some elevations.

What is your mileage? Year model too would be helpful.

When we got home and off the highway at a light the oil pressure as read by the gauge dropped to a seriously low level and the car started vibrating a bit at idle.

"Seriously low level"? Compared to what other indication on a regular basis? (aka baseline indication)

"...the car started vibrating..."? Have there been no other 'vibrations' to that point?
What were the rpms when 'the vibration' to which you are referring happened?

As we accelerated the needle popped up to the middle.

This is normal and should be expected on the basis of 'how that whole thing works'.

We use 10w-30 Mobil One historically... At the last change the mechanic used a Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic blend because given the age he felt it would do better on a blend.

Sure fine. I use 10-30 Valvoline blend the last couple years. No change in any parameter.

We are brining it in tomorrow. The mechanic is good with Toyota but admits to only having 3 of these to look after. From what I have read on the forums I will ask him to check the torque on the harmonic balancer, why this impact oil pressure I do not know but it seems to and I know that a couple of years ago he had it off to replace the oil pump and front crankshaft seals.

Ok, you're right about the balancer being remotely related. Worth a check 'while he's in there'.

The leak has not returned on the passenger grab bar - so either I got it cleaning the drains or it is the windshield. We are prepared to replace the windshield but need to find someone who will do it Mr. Toyota's way not Safelite's.

Now admittedly I'm lost. Thought we were talking about oil pressure. Not sunroof drains being clogged causing an overhead (or floorboard) leak. I know nothing about the tubes that cause that.

We have samples of new leather from Katskins and it looks sweet, we are going to check out Land Cruiser Heaven as they are only 70 miles away. We have peeked under the Roof Rack and no rust and we are coming up with a game plan to protect it with stainless hardware & O-rings. We are also thinking of a bit of Clear-Bra under the contact points.

... agree?

Sounds like a good plan. Be sure to close the thread with the resolutions.

 

[vipergrhd]

Check oil pressure cold and hot with a mechanical gauge before changing it. I don't know what the factory specs. is but rule of thumb is 10 psi for every 1k rpm some newer vehicles can run on less than 5 psi at idle.

 

[Kernal]

"At the last change the mechanic used a Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic blend because given the age he felt it would do better on a blend."

@BTLSHP :

Did you have the oil changed shortly before the episode where the engine stumbled at the light? And did the mechanic do any other service at that time, like check or replace your air filter (or did you)??

Maybe look at what happened the other way around, the rough idle (if the engine was almost stalling) may have caused the pressure to drop lower than you're used to seeing. So also consider looking for causes of the engine to stumble at low rpms. IME air/vacuum leaks are a common cause so check the large air intake tube for cracks between the pleats and the breather and PCV hoses to make sure they're intact.

Did you get fuel shortly before this occured? Bad fuel/water in the tank can cause a stumble. Just happened to me, twice a few days apart, had to add
a couple bottles of ISOHEET Isopropyl alcohol (two days in a row) then refill at a different station before the engine went back to normal.

Your engine won't run any better on a synthetic blend compared to a full synthetic. A somewhat higher viscosity than the US recommended (5/10W-30) (synthetic or blend) may provide more protection in a high mileage engine, IME.

Recheck and post up a cold start photo after installing a new Toyota filter

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Save the Wix filter and a receipt of the service where it was installed. Wix hasn't been at all helpful with making things right where their faulty filters have caused engine damage so you'll need all the evidence you can get.

 

[BTLSHP]

Ok, step by step it is.


What is your mileage? Year model too would be helpful.

"Seriously low level"? Compared to what other indication on a regular basis? (aka baseline indication)

"...the car started vibrating..."? Have there been no other 'vibrations' to that point?
What were the rpms when 'the vibration' to which you are referring happened?

This is normal and should be expected on the basis of 'how that whole thing works'.

Sure fine. I use 10-30 Valvoline blend the last couple years. No change in any parameter.

Ok, you're right about the balancer being remotely related. Worth a check 'while he's in there'.

Now admittedly I'm lost. Thought we were talking about oil pressure. Not sunroof drains being clogged causing an overhead (or floorboard) leak. I know nothing about the tubes that cause that.

... agree?

Sounds like a good plan. Be sure to close the thread with the resolutions.

1994 (edit) FJ80 USA Model (FZJ80) Stock except for ARB bumper and shocks 231,000 miles.

The vibrations occurred at a hot idle which per the dash is a bit over 600 RPM. No dash lights. Yes, vibration at idle has never been a feature of this car, ever.

By seriously low, the needle was barely above the lower white line on a visual gauge which I know is imperfect. Ordinarily, we would see it over the first mark of the scale.

We joke about it being semi-retired. From my records, it has been driven 19k miles in the last 6 years.

Always happy to post the resolution.

 

[Kernal]

1984 FJ80 USA Model (FZJ80)

Did you mean to write 1994 FZ80??

In the US:
FJ80 models (3FE engine) were 1991-1992
FZJ80 (1FZFE engine) were 1993-1997

 

[BTLSHP]

1984 FJ80 USA Model (FZJ80)

Did you mean to write 1994 FZ80??

In the US:
FJ80 models (3FE engine) were 1991-1992
FZJ80 (1FZFE engine) were 1993-1997

My fault, as in photo. 1994 USA Model FZJ80

 

[wagonteeth]

The gauge is more of an indicator. Notice there are no numbers. When I did my headgqsket, I attached a mechanical gauge to the oil pressure sender. Despite my gauge indicating almost no pressure, I was well within spec at all rpms that the fsm says to check. My gauge never made it to the middle moat line.

Get real pressure numbers and then you'll know where the engine is.

 

[BTLSHP]

"At the last change the mechanic used a Valvoline 10w-30 synthetic blend because given the age he felt it would do better on a blend."

@BTLSHP :

Did you have the oil changed shortly before the episode where the engine stumbled at the light? And did the mechanic do any other service at that time, like check or replace your air filter (or did you)??

Maybe look at what happened the other way around, the rough idle (if the engine was almost stalling) may have caused the pressure to drop lower than you're used to seeing. So also consider looking for causes of the engine to stumble at low rpms. IME air/vacuum leaks are a common cause so check the large air intake tube for cracks between the pleats and the breather and PCV hoses to make sure they're intact.

Did you get fuel shortly before this occured? Bad fuel/water in the tank can cause a stumble. Just happened to me, twice a few days apart, had to add
a couple bottles of ISOHEET Isopropyl alcohol (two days in a row) then refill at a different station before the engine went back to normal.

Your engine won't run any better on a synthetic blend compared to a full synthetic. A somewhat higher viscosity than the US recommended (5W-30) (synthetic or blend) may provide more protection in a high mileage engine, IME.

Recheck and post up a cold start photo after installing a new Toyota filter

Oil change was 2,000 miles and about 6 months ago. Truck was refueled 25 miles prior to incident at a Costco. Easy enough to check for air leaks in major lines with propane. Funny we were about to replace the big intake tube as it has turned to stone and has not flex at all it it.

 

[BTLSHP]

Oil change was 2,000 miles and about 6 months ago. Truck was refueled 25 miles prior to incident at a Costco. Easy enough to check for air leaks in major lines with propane. Funny we were about to replace the big intake tube as it has turned to stone and has not flex at all it it.

We will get a pressure gauge on it today. Looking at how to take off filter where it is without making a huge mess