Oil pressure issue (1 Viewer)

[azzachase2]

Hey lads, I've got a new issue im posting here due to forgetting how to make new threads, I've got everything working now, all running sweet but I can't get her I to any gear while running, while it's off it'll shift into gear no issue, just won't shift when running, it's a manual

 

[mudgudgeon]

Clutch issue.

May be . . .
pedal travel / pushrod needs adjustment.
Need to bleed clutch hydraulics.
Master cylinder or slave cylinder leaking internally or externally.
Clutch is worn out.

 

[azzachase2]

Clutch only has 5000km on it, making pushrod adjustment now to see if it works

 

[mudgudgeon]

Clutch only has 5000km on it, making pushrod adjustment now to see if it works

There's not a lot of adjustment available in the pushrod to be honest.

Did you put in a new slave cylinder? Or reuse the old one?

I had problems with a mismatched new slave cylinder. Looked identical, but the travel was different. Different paint colour too.

I also had an issue with the throw out bearing that was supplied as part of the exedy clutch kit I used. It was the wrong length.

Between those two issues, I was getting nothing from the clutch.

 

[azzachase2]

Didn't change throw out bearing, didn't change slave either, adjustment didn't work, only thing I changed was clutch and pressure plate

 

[mudgudgeon]

Didn't change throw out bearing, didn't change slave either, adjustment didn't work, only thing I changed was clutch and pressure plate

Try bleeding the clutch.

Beyond that, change the slave cylinder and hope that does the trick.
I'd guess, if you've driven 5000km since new clutch went in, and the clutch was functioning without issues, the slave or the master cylinder are the main suspect.
Both aren't super expensive through partsouq etc

Another thing that could be a possibility is wear and tear on the clutch fork and/ or the clutch fork pivot ball.
Clutch fork can bend too.

I swapped both the fork and pivot on mine, but with old and new parts on the bench, I couldn't measure any real difference.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You can swap the slave and master cylinders without removing gearbox.

If you do get to the point of having to remove the gearbox, I'd swap the throwout bearing.
Asking a sealed bearing with 100s of K km of service on it already to out last a new clutch isn't realistic IMO

 

[azzachase2]

You can swap the slave and master cylinders without removing gearbox.

If you do get to the point of having to remove the gearbox, I'd swap the throwout bearing.
Asking a sealed bearing with 100s of K km of service on it already to out last a new clutch isn't realistic

So as it turns out, I out the the clutch plate in backwards, removing gearbox tomorrow to hopefully refit everything, is the throw out bearing hard to do?

 

[mudgudgeon]

So as it turns out, I out the the clutch plate in backwards, removing gearbox tomorrow to hopefully refit everything, is the throw out bearing hard to do?

Bugger!

If you have the gearbox out, replacing the throw out bearing is dead simple, and not a big expense.

Just measure the height/length and make sure the replacement is the same. There was two sizes used in 80series. Not sure why the difference.

I'd also change the spigot bearing (aka pilot bearing that's in the back of the crank shaft. Same reasons.
It's a bit trickier to get out.
This works great and doesn't require any special tools