From the 1994 Toyota FSM which you can download from the resources section. You'll notice that the spec for oil pressure has a large window. I also would not go by the dash gauge as they are notoriously inaccurate. Dump that WIX POS filter ASAP.
A bit of help from the Oil Pressure Experts Please (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BTLSHP
- Start date
-
- Tags
- help oil oil pressure pressure
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So the vibration was at hot idle, ~600rpms? A first in terms of your experience with the rig?
You are correct that this engine is quite smooth ordinarily. But a tiny 'stumble/vibration/hiccup/mohm'back' isn't uncommon. There are causes for it like a leaky injector or a smidgeon of head gasket leak-by.
But terrifically the engine will continue on unabated for quite some time.
IMO, just take note of the frequency of the vibration. Also the indicated oil pressure. These would be baseline figures.
If you see notable deviation from these baselines, that would be the time to look into it further.
Till then, it's all a part of ownership and knowledge increase.
You are correct that this engine is quite smooth ordinarily. But a tiny 'stumble/vibration/hiccup/mohm'back' isn't uncommon. There are causes for it like a leaky injector or a smidgeon of head gasket leak-by.
But terrifically the engine will continue on unabated for quite some time.
IMO, just take note of the frequency of the vibration. Also the indicated oil pressure. These would be baseline figures.
If you see notable deviation from these baselines, that would be the time to look into it further.
Till then, it's all a part of ownership and knowledge increase.
- Thread starter
- #24
It is a remarkable vehicle. It predecessor was the FJ60. It went to China with my folks and 5 years later sold in Nepal after an overland trip that peaked out at 19,000'. They took a mechanic along for the trip to handle carburetor adjustments.
- Thread starter
- #25
Ok, here is where we are...I am a bit frustrated. The mechanic has not been able to replicate the super low oil pressure reading on the gauge, but does see what I showed in the photos. He is also not able to replicate the vibrations at idle as a result. The oil is being changed with a 15W-40 with Toyota filter.
He is also changing the oil pressure sender to eliminate that issue. Oil sample will go off to Blackstone.
For next steps, he is more focused on the oil pump than bearings.
He is also changing the oil pressure sender to eliminate that issue. Oil sample will go off to Blackstone.
For next steps, he is more focused on the oil pump than bearings.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
So you’re gonna have him replace an oil pump? Have you not tested the pressure like stated with a mechanical gauge at cold and a warmed up engine? These engines oil pumps rarely go bad like I have never heard of one going bad.
- Thread starter
- #27
I am not doing anything like that nor is he recommending it at this time. He is just saying that next on his list is oil pump. But yes, I am frustrated that he sees little value in putting a gauge on it right now.
Fortunately, that step is not beyond my capability.
Time to find another mechanic. Putting a gauge on it should have been the first step before firing the parts cannon.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yes, I worry about that. He is a long time family friend ex-Toyota but maybe not LC.
alia176
SILVER Star
I agree with above, do your own due diligence by installing a rented oil pressure gauge per FSM. Hopefully, the kit has a long hose and you can tape the gauge to driver side windshield facing you. Then just do you thing, like start it up, go for a drive, get groceries etc while keeping an eye on the gauge. You'll see a pattern and will get a better feel for what the oil is doing.
Or, simply purchase your own oil pressure test kit because this vehicle requires some effort from the owner if the owner isn't made of money!!!
Or, simply purchase your own oil pressure test kit because this vehicle requires some effort from the owner if the owner isn't made of money!!!
alia176
SILVER Star
a "true" mechanic knows their way around an engine, oil pressure gauges, etc, regardless of the body that the engine lives in. There's little excuse, in my mind, for a "mechanic" to express their unfamiliarity with the 1FZ-FE engines. It's an easy engine to access the parts, for most things. Inline 6 engine are the easiest to work on, I think!
The oil pump in these things are bullet proof. They'll leak due to age, but rarely actually break. I think most, if not all of us are on the original oil pumps with new-ish O rings. Replacing the O rings is where some of us end up stripping the hardware and then all bets are off. You start swearing words that come out of the bowels of hell and all that fun stuff.
alia176
SILVER Star
Great idea, and you'll have few drops of oil, depending on how recent the engine was ran.
- Thread starter
- #34
Ok, oil changed to 10w-40, mechanic did not get excited about 15w-40 as winter is coming and he did not like using oil for diesels. Sample leaves for Blackstone tomorrow.
Toyota filter is on - it is a lot smaller physically than other we have used. I suppose that does not matter too much as the oil is changed at 3k intervals since new.
But for the really good news: hot idle oil pressure is 14.3 psi and at 3,000 it is 60psi.
New oil pressure sender will arrive Friday, old one is reported to be functional but pretty rusty.
Don't know what the rough idle is all about so i will follow a suggestion above and add some Heet
Now we can get back to looking at new leather for the interior.
Thanks all,
Toyota filter is on - it is a lot smaller physically than other we have used. I suppose that does not matter too much as the oil is changed at 3k intervals since new.
But for the really good news: hot idle oil pressure is 14.3 psi and at 3,000 it is 60psi.
New oil pressure sender will arrive Friday, old one is reported to be functional but pretty rusty.
Don't know what the rough idle is all about so i will follow a suggestion above and add some Heet
Now we can get back to looking at new leather for the interior.
Thanks all,
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #35
New Toyota Pressure Sensor arrived and was installed. This was after 40 minutes of driving....... The dash scale looks like it used to - a hair below the 1/3 line at hot idle and a bit over the 2/3 line on the highway. Running 10w-40 now.
Ignore it (based on everyone's experience) the gauge is worthless; change the filter (Toyota or Ford); use thicker oil; or sell the vehicle before you go broke!
I think your fine. People get very upset about fluctuations in oil pressure of a few or 10 psi. So many things can cause it, that it is not worth worrying about. It can be higher than normal oil temps due to heat soak, bad sender, old guage, dirty wiring connection, bad voltage regulator in the guage pod, etc, etc. If you had 2 or 3 psi hot idle and 30 psi, hot at higher rpm, I'd worry.
The calls for thicker oil are unwarranted from what I see. Yes, the idle pressure is a little low, but spec is 4.3 psi. If you have 10 psi hot at idle, that is probably plenty, especially for an engine with an automatic transmission behind it. Thicker oil will only cause more pumping losses and higher cold start pressure, but you have plenty of hot, high rpm pressure, so probably no need to go much thicker than recommended unless you start having pressure problems of a more significant nature.
I'm unaware of the WIX issue, but they are normally a very high quality filter. As for oil types, synthetics tend to be thinner at certain temps than traditional oils. Has to do with the molecule sizes, shapes and the additives used. I've seen a significant drop in pressure with some brands, especially in the lighter 5W20 and 5W30 weights.
Just remember, pressure is a byproduct of resistance to flow. In a new engine, clearances are smaller, so more resistance. Opposite for older engines, higher temps or lighter viscosity oil, especially synthetics. As long as there is sufficient oil film present to separate the parts and sufficient pressure to move fresh oil though the bearings to flush away contaminants and carry away heat, everything will be fine. You are fortunate, that Toyota did a very good job of building these things to last a long time, under hard use, with minimal maintenance. This gives you a lot of leeway in many areas that some of the more fragile engine designs do not have.
The calls for thicker oil are unwarranted from what I see. Yes, the idle pressure is a little low, but spec is 4.3 psi. If you have 10 psi hot at idle, that is probably plenty, especially for an engine with an automatic transmission behind it. Thicker oil will only cause more pumping losses and higher cold start pressure, but you have plenty of hot, high rpm pressure, so probably no need to go much thicker than recommended unless you start having pressure problems of a more significant nature.
I'm unaware of the WIX issue, but they are normally a very high quality filter. As for oil types, synthetics tend to be thinner at certain temps than traditional oils. Has to do with the molecule sizes, shapes and the additives used. I've seen a significant drop in pressure with some brands, especially in the lighter 5W20 and 5W30 weights.
Just remember, pressure is a byproduct of resistance to flow. In a new engine, clearances are smaller, so more resistance. Opposite for older engines, higher temps or lighter viscosity oil, especially synthetics. As long as there is sufficient oil film present to separate the parts and sufficient pressure to move fresh oil though the bearings to flush away contaminants and carry away heat, everything will be fine. You are fortunate, that Toyota did a very good job of building these things to last a long time, under hard use, with minimal maintenance. This gives you a lot of leeway in many areas that some of the more fragile engine designs do not have.
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks, it was the combination of a low gauge reading and vibration in the engine that drove the angst. We know the mechanic we use is not a land cruiser expert and we are far from the level of skill and knowledge most of you have. The car is an important part of the identity of a 89 year old and we try and keep in in good shape. The first FJ60 served them in the US and China for 12 years and this was purchased before they returned. A $10k bill for an overhaul would have been a challenge.
It's was purchased to cover the last 4 miles of a trip to a log cabin we built in WV during the winter and spring. It required chains on all four to make that trip at times.
At some point it will be passed along maybe to a younger rock climber maybe in this community. It still has the nearly unused carpet mats.
alia176
SILVER Star
What a nice story!!!
