Builds A 60 Runs through it… (4 Viewers)

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This was where it ends up when the thermostat opens. It was probably around 36 yesterday morning on my commute. Moved maybe a needle up on highway.
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Pulling a well pump in basement of building in downtown Portland with chain hoist. 2” pipe 80gpm 7-1/2 HP set at 168’.
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After getting the pump out instead of using the chain hoist bought a 1500 pound Badlands winch to set the pump. Replaced the 2” S40 galvanized with 2” S120 PVC deep set pipe and SS couplings.
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Awesome is that what you do for work?

I have always been fascinated by drilling. You going to laugh. I live on top on a large gravel basin with a huge aquifer that’s about 20ft below the surface. So I thought why don’t I just drill a well! So I did well more like hydro vac’d one. I’m on city water right now and have lots of trees and gardens so it made sense. I’m 20ft down and into water would like to go a bit deeper then install a well screen and a jet pump.

My soil
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The inexpensive pvc drill and air line connection
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Fill the hole with water and turn on the air
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Neighbour thinks I’m nuts
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Some rocks the size of baseballs
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I’m more surprised that there are buildings in downtown Portland on wells since we have such clean, neutral city water from Bull Run. I guess that’s one way to avoid the water bill.
 
I’m more surprised that there are buildings in downtown Portland on wells since we have such clean, neutral city water from Bull Run. I guess that’s one way to avoid the water bill.
Most wells in Portland are older wells drilled when it was rural countryside. As the city encroached they were either abandoned or used for cooling or heating the building with a heat exchanger.

The Crater Lake Property had quite a snowstorm today.
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Nice. Just in time for this round of weather we'll be getting.
 
Nice. Just in time for this round of weather we'll be getting.
😁 One thing at a time.
If I can slowly button one thing up at a time it keeps my wife happy and that’s the most important thing. It was actually really nice for her to enjoy Snowball❄ when we got our Christmas tree.
I actually enjoy the wiring. It’s different from my job which is nice. Slowly going through and cleaning it up. What a difference from the 2F setup. I have so many unused harnesses.
Need to flex 60 and make sure there’s enough play in the driveshafts and it can’t collide. Also steering stops and bump stops.
 
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I’ve had some vibration in the NV4500 shifting into 4th gear at 40mph especially while climbing a grade. Has anybody installed a fluid damper on the front crank?
40mph
3rd 2550rpm
4th 1600rpm

What Is A Harmonic Balancer, aka Crankshaft Damper?
A harmonic balancer reduces destructive crankshaft torsional vibration, which is the end-to-end twisting/rebound motion, that is naturally generated during each power stroke. A harmonic balancer contributes to greater valve train and timing efficiency, plus reduces wear of critical engine components such as main bearings, oil pump and the crankshaft itself.

A harmonic balancer often incorporates the main drive pulley and by appearance is often overlooked as having no essential function to the life of the engine. If the drive pulley is incorporated with the harmonic balancer, removing or changing it to a lightweight design, or using a low quality product MAY BE THE SINGLE BIGGEST COSTLY MISTAKE YOU CAN DO TO YOUR ENGINE.

Why Do I Need A Performance Harmonic Balancer, aka Crankshaft Damper
Performance parts that increase torque, such as intake, exhaust, cams, and ECM changes typically cause an increase in torsional vibration magnitude, but keep frequency the same. Evidence that your stock harmonic balancer is not performing adequately will be cracked, bulging or missing rubber between the hub and outer ring. This is caused by excessive heat retention, over stretching and age. A common failure will be the outer ring separating from the hub causing damage inside the engine bay. Most race sanctioning bodies require a SFI 18.1 spec damper as a safety caution.

Performance parts related to the rotating assembly, such as rods, pistons, crank, flywheel/flexplate usually changes both torsional vibration magnitude and frequency. A stock harmonic balancer typically is only tuned for a 50hz peak variance. Move beyond its parameters and it may leave your critical engine components unprotected when torsional vibration is at its peak.

Due to the countless combinations of performance upgrades the simplest and more effective solution is to install a Fluidampr performance damper. By design, Fluidampr protects across a broad frequency and can become more effective as magnitude increases. The earlier a Fluidamper performance damper is installed, the more you’ll benefit from the protection, performance and durability in the long run.

How Does A Fluidampr Damper Work?
Unlike a stock elastomer harmonic balancer, Fluidampr performance dampers protect across a broad frequency range and can become more effective as magnitude increases throughout your RPM range. Each Fluidampr performance damper is designed for the engine application it is intended for.
Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer

Fluidampr performance dampers consist of a free rotating inertia ring inside a laser sealed outer housing within tight tolerance of each other. Both the inertia ring and the outer housing are computer balanced to exceed OEM specifications during manufacturing. Between the two, an area referred to as the shear gap is pressure injected with viscous silicone. This specialized silicone maintains stability across an extreme temperature range and provides superior heat dissipation.

As soon as your engine fires torsional vibration is present. To damp its destructive effects, the outer housing turns at engine RPM, while the inner inertia ring immediately self-centers and is free to be ‘shocked’ by each torsional vibration event. As the inner inertia ring moves in-and-out of RPM with the outer housing, the shearing force through the silicone transforms the vibration to heat, which rapidly dissipates through the housing. Since the mass of the inertia ring is engulfed in a thin film of silicone and not directly connected to the crank, it can be calculated that only 2/3 of the total Fluidampr weight is rotating at RPM. For example, a 7.9lb Fluidampr for a Chevy LS1 only feels 5.3lbs at rpm.

The Fluidampr design originated from top race engine builders requesting Vibratech TVD (formally Houdialle and parent company to Fluidampr) to bring its viscous damper technology engineered for long-life, high power diesel applications to professional motorsports in the early-1980s to replace failing elastomer designs. Viscous torsional dampers are used today as original equipment on select luxury sportscars, light-duty diesel trucks and even military spec engines. Meanwhile, nearly all high power engines that move our economy depend on a viscous damper for superior protection, performance and durability.
 
What dampener do you have now? The 6BT dampener should be a direct fit and cheaper than the fluid filled one.
 
What dampener do you have now? The 6BT dampener should be a direct fit and cheaper than the fluid filled one.
I don’t have one. The Fluidampr brand is about $400 which isn’t too bad if it removes torsional vibration which I believe I’m getting when shifting into 4th gear. Been reading up on other diesel threads and many had results adding a Fluidampr.

Below is his issue I cut from the thread above.

Now since all this is new to me, CTD and the NV4500 etc...I'm not sure if this is a problem or just something that is common place. I'll try to describe what's happening.

When rowing through the gears, this is how I'm driving, 2nd gear to start, then to 3rd gear to about 30-35 mph then to 4th gear. I then stay in 4th for most in-town cruising and if I get to about 50-55 mph I go to 5th.

Now after I shift from 3rd to 4th I get this rattle/shimmy through the tranny, seems to be at the lower RPM range, sorry I have a tach but not installed yet. Kind of feels like the whole gear cluster is vibrating, and you can hear it too, kind of a tin sound to it.

Seems to make this noise more when under light load, up to about 40-45 mph then it mostly goes away. If I am accelerating hard in 4th it doesn't seem to make the noise/vibration as much.

EDIT:
A limiting factor for 3rd may be I do not have a functional wastegate choking power and causing me to jump to 4th. Accelerating in 3rd I get 22psi of boost but once I get up to about 40mph it drops off. Believe a functioning wastegate would help. I need to get a wastegate actuator for the HX-30 but am only seeing ones for a HX-35.
 
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You are going to lose boost no matter what when shifting. For me I shift close to 3K when accelerating which drops the next gear down around 1800 . Anything lower will lug the engine a bit.
 
The amount of vibes from the 4bt vs. 6bt is huge. The inherent rattle of my 4bt makes some interesting buzzing at certain speeds. The gaps in my early NV4500 are atrocious for in town driving. I've come to accept it and in my search for the next version NV I ended up with another early version, Oh well.
When I was researching info on the damper pulley for the alternator on a TDI Passat I learned that even gas 4 bangers can merit dampers on the alternator. A lot of the vibration results from the acceleration of each combustion stroke and deceleration of the compression stroke. I put an OEM fluid type marine damper on mine and it seemed to help a little. I wonder if the short crankshaft of the 4bt has the same problems of a 6bt. The lash in the drivetrain is constantly bouncing back between loading and unloading in harmonic cycles until you fully load it. (My theory)
I figure the 4bt is basically a giant impact driver trying to beat what ever is in between it and the tires until the vehicle moves or something breaks..
 
My crankcase breather was releasing enough blowby that I installed a collection bottle to stop the oil drips from the end of the line I ran off the breather. Further reading and I decided to look into a Cummins Valve Cover dual breather. I found Case Holland makes a dual breather for a fraction of the Cummins. I ordered it and installed it. I don’t have it ran to a collection bottle. My crankcase collection bottle now has virtually no oil. It’s a proven upgrade that greatly eliminated crankcase blowby pressure.
I see the Fluidampr in the same manner. Wanted to put it out there to see if any other have added one and had results.
The vibration when shifting into 4th has me wanting to see what results I will have by adding Fluidampr.
 
I bought a fuel pump through CNH and it was almost 1/2 price.. Do you have the part number for the breather? I didn't even know there was such a thing. I use a little oil and drip a little.
 
I gave up on the breather drip. Cummins are leakers. Once one leak is fixed another will be developing shortly after. As long as I don’t have to add oil between oil changes I call it good.
I do get a bigger drip in the winter due to the moisture from the temp difference.
 
@Kief
I got it through Diesel Mobile Services in Oakland, Oregon for $125. Best money I’ve spent. Bryan Vader actually picked it up on his Medford route saving me $25 in shipping.
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Spent the Saturday organizing the shop. Decided I had time to finish the passenger front seatbelt and install the rear center since seatbelt planet forgot to send them the first time.
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They also sent me some rear retractor covers.
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Was also a good time to clean the inside of the 60.
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The outside will have to wait. If I wash the outside it’s dirty by the time I hit pavement anyway.
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Monday I’m pretty sure I’ll order a Fluidampr.
 
@Kief
I got it through Diesel Mobile Services in Oakland, Oregon for $125.

I tried getting the same deal with your order number since that had this price associated to it but was denied. I was told you got a deal that won't happen again. I ended up sourcing my locally.
 

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