Builds A 60 Runs through it…

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Got the gearbox and PS pump plumbed.
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Used a wirsbo pipe strap on the return line to keep away from steering shaft.
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Capped off the second return line with fitting and 3AN cap as recommended by @Mr Cimarron.
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Just about finished. All that’s left is the vacuum pump line to booster. Part should be in at Advanced Auto Parts this later afternoon.
 
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Rear air bleeder on rear brake caliper was seized and broke so removed the calipers.
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At this point going to get new calipers and pads. While they were off cleaned up the rotors with palm sander.
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Painted the hubs.
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I run the parts store brand cheap s***. I’d run that in my LSD third in the 40.
 
Jon @ Gorilla lug nuts said the correct Hutchinson style lug nut will be here early next week.
What to finish, vacuum pump to brake. booster line. Calipers and pads on rear axle. Add fluids and bleed brake system & power steering system. Add gear oil to front and rear axles. Emergency brake on rear axle. Weld on flange unions and finish exhaust pipe.
Owe forgot shocks and mounting.
 
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Anybody install these fender flares. With the wheels so much further out past the body with the 80s axle swap and 2” wheel spacers up front, these would be a nice addition.
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The kit has gasket and flares. I don’t see the rivets like on the one above in the kit.
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If they are like the bushwhacker flares for the tacoma, they attach underneath in the fender well area, and the exposed bolts/rivets are just for show. They can be drilled out and made functional though, and then you would have to actually drill into the body panels. I like the looks of what @Zoverlander did with his fender flares. Check out his instagram for some pictures his rig has been some of my inspiration.
 
If they are like the bushwhacker flares for the tacoma, they attach underneath in the fender well area, and the exposed bolts/rivets are just for show. They can be drilled out and made functional though, and then you would have to actually drill into the body panels. I like the looks of what @Zoverlander did with his fender flares. Check out his instagram for some pictures his rig has been some of my inspiration.
Dang he used the same avatar as me... however I customized mine.:rofl:
Well I guess I’ll change it soon when it gets out in the snow.
 
No, it doesn't need to be high temp. Regular works just fine. I've been running regular power steering fluid for 8 years now with no issues and I have hydroboost in my system that you don't. Now, I am partial to running power steering fluid rather than ATF in my steering system.
 
No, it doesn't need to be high temp. Regular works just fine. I've been running regular power steering fluid for 8 years now with no issues and I have hydroboost in my system that you don't. Now, I am partial to running power steering fluid rather than ATF in my steering system.
I got the high temp part off Trail Gears site last night.
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You are not using a toyota steering pump, you have a saginaw pump which is more robust. I'm not saying it's not a good idea to run high temp stuff, just that running regular stuff has not been a problem with 8 years of experience with the same product you are using. It's up to you what you want to run. They also have their disclaimer at the bottom stating it's only for offroad or racing use so if you are worried about voiding a warranty it's a moot point.
 
You are not using a toyota steering pump, you have a saginaw pump which is more robust. I'm not saying it's not a good idea to run high temp stuff, just that running regular stuff has not been a problem with 8 years of experience with the same product you are using. It's up to you what you want to run. They also have their disclaimer at the bottom stating it's only for offroad or racing use so if you are worried about voiding a warranty it's a moot point.
Open to suggestions. Not arguing just would like to get the best fluid for the job. It’s all clean so Id like to go synthetic high temp. That’s the only one I found late last night.
 

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