A 200 is meant to have 37’s (2 Viewers)

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17" is cheaper, you got that right. And you'll also have more choices in a 17. Pretty much all the major and most of the minor manufacturers make 17" sizes, so you got that right too. I also prefer a C or D rated tire for ride quality and sidewall compliance. I'm not aware of any 18" truck tires that are NOT E-rated. My ride quality improved soooo much when I ditched my E-rated Nittos and got D rated Mickey Thompsons.

Also more sidewall translates to more aired down compliance and less risk of pinch flat (though at 37" tires, not much difference at this point). More sidewall = more big truck tire looks :hillbilly:

As Heckraiser said, 17's are cheaper, you have more options, and in addition to D rated options, you can get the C rated 37x12.5R17 BFG that comes on the Bronco Raptor. Yes, yes, its smaller than some other 37's but its taller than any non-bias ply, non racing 35, AND it is the lightest 37 inch tire on the market (65-66 pounds vs 75 or more for most other 37's). That makes a difference when you accelerate, turn on the road, and brake... and it puts less strain on all of the parts you pound on when your offroad.

Now... I have still looked at 18 inch wheels and even (gasp) 20 inch wheels, for some builds I've helped with. Why? @TeCKis300 covered the case for 18's above pretty well. And as an aside you can get some D rated 37's for 18 inch wheels, but, only the 13.5 in wide 37's, which, while looking cool, are probably a bigger PiTa to set up on the LC200 to tuck inside the fenders. On Jeeps and Bronco's that's less of an issue.

As for a 20 inch wheel... I haven't run then on a personal rig, but I did help with one build with a BBK (that made sense for the weight of the rig and speeds the owner liked to do on road :)) and with a 37 inch tire, you still have a reasonable amount of sidewall. Horses for courses, for builds, and for personal preference.
 
+35s are the perfect offset to run a full fat 35x12.5R18. It's honestly pretty straightforward and something that could be done in a weekend on the LX. This biggest open secret to huge capability for cheap is to buy a 2016+ LX570 and throw 35s on it. All the good stuff of gearing, brakes, and suspension is already there.

Appreciate the info.

Don't want full fat. Want skinnier and taller, if preferrable.

DOn't have LX. Wife has those, and those are stock. LC + KDDS here.
 
This thread needs more posts.

I have about 2k miles left on my Kenda Klever RTs (that'd be about 40k on them) and there are two sweet deals circulating on 37x12.5R17s that I might need to jump on soon. Cooper AT3 XLTs at Tirerack for $333 and BFG KO2s at Discount for $359. Figured I could buy the tires and wheels now then take them to the shop to finish fitment when the Kendas are done.
For wheels, I like the Titanium or Charcoal finishes of ICON and Methods. Looking at ICON Vector 5s, Recon SLX, and Rebound Pro all with 25mm BS. Looking at the Method 703s with 35mm BS.

Any opinions?
I have the 705s in Matte Titanium in 25mm. Might need to go lower to push the tires a little further out but not too much. Provide more cleaning on the body mount and frame.
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The Klever pics below are 35s and just to show the color of the wheels in different light.
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I have the 705s in Matte Titanium in 25mm. 35 might be better to push the tires a little further out but not too much. Provide more cleaning on the body mount and frame.
35mm would put the tires more inside the fenders. To push them out you would need less offset like 15mm or 0
 
35mm would put the tires more inside the fenders. To push them out you would need less offset like 15mm or 0
Correct and good catch. I meant 15mm but was reading about the 35mm offset so I typed that.

35 offset and 37s x 12.5 would likely be an issue. I think they make 11.5 which might not be as much of an issue.
 
The 705s come in 17” and either +0 or +35. Or 18” and +25. That’s what I see here: 705 | Titanium - https://www.methodracewheels.com/products/705-matte-titanium?variant=39338185064509
I bought them from Vivid and the rep told me they were +25. Had them shipped to the shop to have the 35s mounted and never thought about it again. Learned something new today and explains some rub at full lock in certain situations and rather rare occurrences.

These Icons are in spec. Maybe after I fix the 4Lo issue I’ll grab these. +18 might be the move to ensure lots of room.

 
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i have +35 methods on mine. given the work 37s require (i am not ready for), what is biggest tire you would recommen? I run 275/65/18 now
Appreciate the info.

Don't want full fat. Want skinnier and taller, if preferrable.

DOn't have LX. Wife has those, and those are stock. LC + KDDS here.
I went the same route with the goal being weight reduction and better chances of ease of fitment whenever the "200 is mint on 39/40's" thread starts.:worms::poof:

In my opinion the wheel width has the most impact on appearance of fatness. If you have 18" wheels I'm guessing they are 9" wide? Maybe a 285/75r18 is what you are looking for. Essentially a 35x11.25
 
I went the same route with the goal being weight reduction and better chances of ease of fitment whenever the "200 is mint on 39/40's" thread starts.:worms::poof:

In my opinion the wheel width has the most impact on appearance of fatness. If you have 18" wheels I'm guessing they are 9" wide? Maybe a 285/75r18 is what you are looking for. Essentially a 35x11.25
i have the method 318 in 18

i believe width is 8.5 or 9
 
I'm
Simple things like a more aggressive right hand turn at an intersection to merge can trip the traction control.
Can confirm this happens on a 17 with 35x10.5s.


Also here to chime in that Nomad makes a zero-offset wheel in 3 different styles, the Sahara +0 is what's pictured below on my 200. I can't say for sure, but I would think a 37x12.5 would be very close to contacting the body in addition to needing a good body mount chop if you go with a zero offset wheel.
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My 35s are nearing the end of their life cycle. I can’t complain they have 55,000 odometer miles on them and still plenty of tread. I just like new tires.

I think I have looked at almost every 37 available.

I don’t need 37s. In fact I’ve never been anywhere that the 35s weren’t more than adequate in my 200. It’s 99% mom car anyway.

But washed it today and remembered how little I did to make 35s work on “0” offset wheels. 37s is definitely do able with work. Minor bump stop extension, more trimming, more aggressive body Mount work.

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I don’t need 37s. In fact I’ve never been anywhere that the 35s weren’t more than adequate in my 200. It’s 99% mom car anyway.
Every 200 series USDM land cruiser owner....


32 inches for life baby!!!! Not the size of the tool, but the motion in the ocean!
 
I'm

Can confirm this happens on a 17 with 35x10.5s.


Also here to chime in that Nomad makes a zero-offset wheel in 3 different styles, the Sahara +0 is what's pictured below on my 200. I can't say for sure, but I would think a 37x12.5 would be very close to contacting the body in addition to needing a good body mount chop if you go with a zero offset wheel.
View attachment 3751578
Really wish the Nomad Sahara wheels were available in 17" with +25 offset... along with beadgrip Method wheels 🫤
 
I ran spacers for the past year with them. I made the mistake of putting them on there and discovering I liked the look too much, couldn’t go back.

I’ve cut my fenders back, cut my sliders back, cut my body mount back, cut and hammered the pinch weld back, and cut a good chunk of both front and rear bumpers.
 
I ran spacers for the past year with them. I made the mistake of putting them on there and discovering I liked the look too much, couldn’t go back.

I’ve cut my fenders back, cut my sliders back, cut my body mount back, cut and hammered the pinch weld back, and cut a good chunk of both front and rear bumpers.
What size spacers did you run with the +25? Also what kind and how did they work?
 

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