Curious about offset, 37's and their width. A skinny 37 might not be too hard but a 12-13" is going to be a challenge.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (24 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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I don't plan on it, but I wouldn't be surprised if I eventually end up there. I think If I still had stock bumpers, I would be more inclined to go that route from the get go.
I would guess from the pic you'll clear the opening itself since the rubber strip is probably 1" and there's still a bit of a gap. The bottom lip of the garage door might be more of an issue... might want to see if you can adjust the stop for it and get it fully horizontal when open
So you go in eyes wide open, 0 offset is going to make life hard to get 37s to fit. Really hard. Clearance for on-road is one thing, but if you're rock crawling, the body mount and fenders are going to take some serious work.
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You beat me to it! I’m planning to get the polished hdr wheels once they release them. They’re slow rolling them, grey and black first. Awesome wheels though!Welp, spent 2 hours at work reading this whole thread yesterday.... great info as always. I am finally gearing up to make the jump to 37's. I have had the tires for 6 miles nuts now, I just didn't have the wheels. However, now I have finally have access to the wheels too so this thing is getting real. I have 1.25" clearance to get into my garage right now with 35/12.5/18's. Moving up to 37/12.5/17 is only only to get me 1" taller right? I know I could air down a little to fit, it I am really hoping I don't have to do that. Tough choices are bronze or gun metal beadlocks?
- I am really dreading having to trim my dissent bumpers.
I guess my plan is to get the larger wheels and tires on and go from there.....
- just curious, what's MPG like for my 6 speed guys with 37's on the hiway. Just curious.
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There’s a couple of us who have 0 offset already. Yes, you’ll have to cut stuff. Don’t sweat it. Dissent rear can be cut up easily and still take a lot of hits even with removing part of the mount in the wheel well. The difficult part is cutting enough back on your body mount up front. I’ve cut it back and welded new caps on it 3 times now. Stellar built will sell you an entirely new body mount that moves it back further if you want to go that route too.
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
It’s the rear wheel well that’s a problem at 0 offset. Excuse my crap decision not to lock but here’s a video of my truck going over the gap. You can see how high up I tuck, and that’s 1” body lift.
I just spaced my Perry bumps down with a spacer I made. Roughly 2” added to the standard rear lx perry bumps. No longer comes up into the fender in the rear. I don’t have a body lift either.
How is this the first time I’m hearing about Stellar Built offering an entirely different body mount
I think there’s quite a few guys that would love that
Can’t seem to tag Dmitriy anymore, but please share more details.
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I spoke with them about it when they had their 200 at cruise Moab this year. Told them I had cut the body mount and re welded some plates back on it numerous times and still made contact. They told me they sell a kit to cut off the oem one and weld on their’s, which pushes it back. You have to call to get them to ship you one. I haven’t done it because I’m even with my firewall and the pictures they sent me show their body mount won’t make a difference really. May still do it someday though.How is this the first time I’m hearing about Stellar Built offering an entirely different body mount
I think there’s quite a few guys that would love that
Can’t seem to tag Dmitriy anymore, but please share more details.
This might be an option worth looking into. Tundra body Mount relocate.
If I ever went 37s I would go this route or similar to what has been done early in this thread.
If I ever went 37s I would go this route or similar to what has been done early in this thread.
I think the stock body mount can be modified to be comparable in clearance to the Stellar piece. I didn't need to but perhaps aggressive offsets might need to cut off the part that projects beyond the rubber isolator too. Question is if it's enough and or would need a relocation and or modification of paneling above it? Of course you could limit uptravel, but that's precious suspension travel. Body lift IMO would be a better option there.
Stuff is tarting to get real around here. I will hopefully have some time to start trimming Ect on Monday. But at least I got the wheel and tires mounted 
What are you doing for a spare, now that you've got 37", @TeCKis300 ?
Keeping my 35" spare underneath.
My calculous is that the 35s will be close enough that I could get off the trail and drive onroad perhaps at a slower pace if it did come to that. Possibly adjust tire pressure to make up for as much rolling difference as possible. I also went with a 3-ply R/T tire for 37s that should be more durable and less likely to experience flats.
On a separate note, I've been pleasantly surprised by Toyo X-ATs that I'm running. These have got to be the quietest best riding R/T tires out there. NVH like A/Ts but with construction and more aggressive features approaching an M/T.
For those looking to run 37s, possibly with really aggressive offsets. Another critical factor is UCAs. You'll want to avoid caster corrected UCAs as this tends to pull the tire towards the bodymount. Use the lower LCA adjustment to get enough caster as adjusting there pushes the tire away from the BM. Although you'll also be limited in just how much caster can be corrected for with the LCA. Fortunately, larger tires need less caster as they inherently have more mechanical trail.
Happy to report with +28 offset and alignment as per above, I've got no contact against the body mount after hard wheeling. I did need to cut the body mount aggressively as per @MTKID guidance. Trimmed up a bit of the body mount rubber and integrated steel washer to avoid rubbing noise.
Happy to report with +28 offset and alignment as per above, I've got no contact against the body mount after hard wheeling. I did need to cut the body mount aggressively as per @MTKID guidance. Trimmed up a bit of the body mount rubber and integrated steel washer to avoid rubbing noise.
I am dying for full breakdown and pics @TeCKis300
Soon! I got the rig tested in anger over a long Labor day off-roading weekend. Working to inspect each wheel well at the moment. Fortunately mostly minor rubbing, nothing a bit of massaging won't fix.
She was loaded heavy and tried to do my best to stuff tires crawling and at speed.
More to come...
I wanted to ask and see who is successfully running 37’s with KDSS.
Is it the Tundra front end that allows this? Or has anyone done it without the Tundra front suspension?
Also, can you remove just the front KDSS bar and not have any warning lights on the dash?
I’m getting questions about getting LC’s onto 37’s and want to make sure I’m giving correct information in addition to sharing this great thread with people.
Thanks
Is it the Tundra front end that allows this? Or has anyone done it without the Tundra front suspension?
Also, can you remove just the front KDSS bar and not have any warning lights on the dash?
I’m getting questions about getting LC’s onto 37’s and want to make sure I’m giving correct information in addition to sharing this great thread with people.
Thanks
Yes please let us know.. I’ve been dreaming of 37s on my LCI wanted to ask and see who is successfully running 37’s with KDSS.
Is it the Tundra front end that allows this? Or has anyone done it without the Tundra front suspension?
Also, can you remove just the front KDSS bar and not have any warning lights on the dash?
I’m getting questions about getting LC’s onto 37’s and want to make sure I’m giving correct information in addition to sharing this great thread with people.
Thanks
