This is the only place where crawl control out drives a good 2 footing driver. Real aggressive downhills.
A 200 is meant to have 37’s (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter LC200JG
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I like this game. Just keep chopping back until tires clear. How to do it cleanly is a bit trickier and I'll have to accept that things won't fit as cleanly as 35s did.
Here's chopping the rear bumper cover. Bonding back the cut part with Sikaflex 221 to the skin, to keep some structure for the mud flap to mount to.
Here's chopping the rear bumper cover. Bonding back the cut part with Sikaflex 221 to the skin, to keep some structure for the mud flap to mount to.
On the front, when I went to 34s and didn't yet have a lift I would rub in the area you trimmed. Straight was OK but I'd hear it when I was turning and there was a lot of body roll. I did basically what you did, just more aggressively, and although it's 34s vs 37s I suspect you'll similarly find you can make the bumper skin clear without a full-on viper cut. That said, no promises on the fender line (which TBH is where I rubbed a LOT more... and every time I thought I'd trimmed enough when parked to clear I'd find it still rubbed when I'd turn and the body would move)
If you take the front Tupperware 1” back you’ll lose that portion that returns and attaches into the black plastic boxed piece behind it, but you can do the same thing you did on the rear with Sikaflex. Reattaching the return piece, through some filler Epoxy and drilling for the new hardware location. It sounds elaborate but it’s not too bad when you take your time.
Sorry, I don’t have any photos of this as I describe it from Jason’s truck.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Did you have to trim any of the Dissent front or rear bumper on Jason's truck?
nwfl4runner
GOLD Star
I cut 2” or so off of each wing of my Dissent front
this thing makes me want to sell my LC and start over with an early LX!
Yes, we did. The front was much easier than the rear because of the bracketry and bracing for the rear.
This was after cutting the front, before doing more trimming at the top to to make it fit perfectly.
And we have since done the additional return behind the edge of the plastic bumper with an epoxied piece of the same material cutoff from elsewhere. This trim left without that return and bolt through the back allowed it to pop out while on the Highway. Now it is secure
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You have a link to the edging you used there.Yes, we did. The front was much easier than the rear because of the bracketry and bracing for the rear.
View attachment 3706441
This was after cutting the front, before doing more trimming at the top to to make it fit perfectly.View attachment 3706451
And we have since done the additional return behind the edge of the plastic bumper with an epoxied piece of the same material cutoff from elsewhere. This trim left without that return and bolt through the back allowed it to pop out while on the Highway. Now it is secure
I want to put that on my rockers so I don't have to mess with my sliders.
This is what we used.
It’s not the perfect height. We had to cut it down and I cut it down even further from what you see there.
I think I'm actually okay in the upwards direction as I was able to roll and pull the metal fender about 3/4" further out. A bit of which will be consumed as I'm going to up to 1.25" spacers (net 28mm offset) vs the 1" spacers I have now (net 35mm offset). The bumper skin will be a bigger problem and I will definitely need to cut one way or another.
I'm leaning towards viper cut first. If that doesn't work, chop 1.25" off the whole fender arch. If that doesn't work, join the others and get a Dissent bumper.
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
Are those the BBS forged?
As far as the cut, why not go with the same kind for the front as you did with the rear? Trimming a sliver pie cut out of the front most section that mimics the natural wheel well lines. I like your idea with the pie cut and epoxy. I was thinking of how to do the same thing if I ever went bigger. I'm going to offend whoever has it done, but IMHO the viper cut is
Are those the BBS forged?
As far as the cut, why not go with the same kind for the front as you did with the rear? Trimming a sliver pie cut out of the front most section that mimics the natural wheel well lines. I like your idea with the pie cut and epoxy. I was thinking of how to do the same thing if I ever went bigger. I'm going to offend whoever has it done, but IMHO the viper cut is
Yeah, that's an option. I'm still noodling.
Wheels are common Tundra wheels that I refinished.
I tend to agree that the viper cut isn't my favorite choice style wise. Functionally, I like the way some mild tube armor can integrate with it including the clearance advantage like was done here.
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Welp, spent 2 hours at work reading this whole thread yesterday.... great info as always. I am finally gearing up to make the jump to 37's. I have had the tires for 6 miles nuts now, I just didn't have the wheels. However, now I have finally have access to the wheels too so this thing is getting real. I have 1.25" clearance to get into my garage right now with 35/12.5/18's. Moving up to 37/12.5/17 is only only to get me 1" taller right? I know I could air down a little to fit, it I am really hoping I don't have to do that. Tough choices are bronze or gun metal beadlocks?
- I am really dreading having to trim my dissent bumpers
.
I guess my plan is to get the larger wheels and tires on and go from there.....
- just curious, what's MPG like for my 6 speed guys with 37's on the hiway. Just curious.
- I am really dreading having to trim my dissent bumpers
. I guess my plan is to get the larger wheels and tires on and go from there.....
- just curious, what's MPG like for my 6 speed guys with 37's on the hiway. Just curious.
It's an inch taller, in theory. In practice (a) tire diameters will vary a bit depending on the manufacturer, model, and pressure you run, and (b) tires will get smaller over time as you wear down the tread. So if you've got 2" clearance in your garage you're probably fine, but 1" could be trouble...
teejnut
SILVER Star
Welp, spent 2 hours at work reading this whole thread yesterday.... great info as always. I am finally gearing up to make the jump to 37's. I have had the tires for 6 miles nuts now, I just didn't have the wheels. However, now I have finally have access to the wheels too so this thing is getting real. I have 1.25" clearance to get into my garage right now with 35/12.5/18's. Moving up to 37/12.5/17 is only only to get me 1" taller right? I know I could air down a little to fit, it I am really hoping I don't have to do that. Tough choices are bronze or gun metal beadlocks?
- I am really dreading having to trim my dissent bumpers
I guess my plan is to get the larger wheels and tires on and go from there.....
- just curious, what's MPG like for my 6 speed guys with 37's on the hiway. Just curious.
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View attachment 3707740
These HDR wheels from RPM? They're 0 offset right?
I'm just going to have to hope for the best..... Luckily, my 200 doesn't get driven daily much now.
Yes they are from RPM. Such a quality product in person. I forgot the offset, but you might be right.
teejnut
SILVER Star
They look nice! Think you'll be the first on 37s and 0 offset if you get it to fit. Are you doing a body lift?
