bwalker16527
1974 FJ40 SBC V8 350 TH400
Agree, used both on my rig and I am happy with both.You have a great foundation for a project, enjoy it!
Rear sill: Awl_TEQ Metal Parts etc.
Rear quarters: Quarter Panels & Patches - Real Steel Cruiser Parts
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Agree, used both on my rig and I am happy with both.You have a great foundation for a project, enjoy it!
Rear sill: Awl_TEQ Metal Parts etc.
Rear quarters: Quarter Panels & Patches - Real Steel Cruiser Parts
Hey Pete..thanks again for the advise. So tonight we lubed up the ambulance doors, and made some adjustments, and they open and close like a charm! The passenger side door is the one that is giving us the most issues. It won't open from the outside, but will from the inside. I'm a little confused on the removing of the inside panel. How would I use a rag around the window crank to remove it? Maybe it will make more sense once I dig into it?? Thanks again Pete...I have a feeling, if you'll let me, I'll be picking your brain a tonJayster, re doors I'm not sure what your problem is but usually it can be adjustments, i.e. removing wind or water inflow, or sticking handles. There are a couple of things that can be adjusted to make the doors fit up better and tighter. One is the striker - I think that's what it's called - which is the loop that attaches to the tub with two large Philips head screws. There is a small steel plate with two threaded holes inside the jamb/tub that the screws thread into so if you loosen the screws you can slide that striker around to make the door latch up tighter or looser. Don't loosen the screws too much or they can pull out of the plate and the plate falls down into never-to-be gotten-back land. You can also adjust the up-down and forward-back of the door by loosening the hinge bolts on the door or on the front cowl (hard to get at but you can do it). The ambulance door hinges can be adjusted similarly to get them to fit up tighter.
If the handle or window crank or locking mechanism is sticking remove the door card (inside panel) and lube any place that moves, slides or pivots with white grease in an aerosol can. You have to remove the window crank to do that as well as the clips that hold it to the door. Some guys will tell you to use a rag around the window crank to remove the clip that retains it but you can buy a fork like tool to do this easier, Harbor Freight has the fork and some plastic tools for removing interior trim that are handy for removing the panel from the door. You can also lube the ambulance door lock mechanism easier as its' all right out there. Diagrams showing all of these lock and hinge mechanisms are available at Spector Off Road sor.com
Good luck,
Pete
Perfect! That makes more sense now. Thanks sub!That rag idea is neat, I'll have to try it myself some time!
Jayster, to get the door handle off there is a c-clip sort of thing holding it on. You should be able to see it if you press the door panel away from the handle. I've used screwdrivers in the past to spread the ends of the clip to get it to pop off, but the rag idea might work as well. Once you see it you will get it.
It's like this:
![]()
Hey Pete..thanks again for the advise. So tonight we lubed up the ambulance doors, and made some adjustments, and they open and close like a charm! The passenger side door is the one that is giving us the most issues. It won't open from the outside, but will from the inside. I'm a little confused on the removing of the inside panel. How would I use a rag around the window crank to remove it? Maybe it will make more sense once I dig into it?? Thanks again Pete...I have a feeling, if you'll let me, I'll be picking your brain a ton![]()
This is Josh the 13-year old my dad has been talking about. We have been just been doing small little things. For example we have been cleaning up the car and maybe our work area), but also we oiled and tightened some of the handles so they are a little smoother, they all open and close great now. Also that rag trick worked like a charm. So now it is going to get a little harder. But as we are looking at the doors my dad sees that the window felt isn't great and is kind of falling apart. So we are wondering if we should order them now or after we paint and stuff (which won't be for months). Also if you guys have any idea where we could get some. (we have found some on amazon but not sure if they fit/even work)
Thanks for all your help so far, it has been a big help.
Josh
Josh,
Ok, so I'm glad you said something....so when it was said earlier that he hadn't seen a knuckle that clean ever in a '76, that was a bad thing, not a good thingIt was mentioned earlier but that front axle needs a rebuild with how dry they look in the pictures. Definitely do not put it in 4wd before doing so. @OTRAMM just recently posted a really good video series on rebuilding a front axle on a 60 series which is essentially the same save for a few torque specs.
Knuckle Rebuild Video Series
Also, don't buy parts off Amazon or eBay. Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit is a great one stop shop for all your parts needs. Especially as a newbie you need a friendly parts guy who will get you everything you need and nothing you don't. They sell quality after market and OEM parts too.
So I'm not sure if the data plate you're referring to is the plate located on the driver side post, but if so, it was painted over. You can still see the production month (November), and the VIN number (212050), but nothing else. I just texted the PO and he said it was Beige. I might go back to the original, as my son loves the beige. What are your thoughts?BTW, see if it has the data plate in the engine bay and post up a pic. I'm curious what the original color was on this 40.

So I'm not sure if the data plate you're referring to is the plate located on the driver side post, but if so, it was painted over. You can still see the production month (November), and the VIN number (212050), but nothing else. I just texted the PO and he said it was Beige. I might go back to the original, as my son loves the beige. What are your thoughts?