Builds A 13 Year Old and His Future '76 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Jayster, re doors I'm not sure what your problem is but usually it can be adjustments, i.e. removing wind or water inflow, or sticking handles. There are a couple of things that can be adjusted to make the doors fit up better and tighter. One is the striker - I think that's what it's called - which is the loop that attaches to the tub with two large Philips head screws. There is a small steel plate with two threaded holes inside the jamb/tub that the screws thread into so if you loosen the screws you can slide that striker around to make the door latch up tighter or looser. Don't loosen the screws too much or they can pull out of the plate and the plate falls down into never-to-be gotten-back land. You can also adjust the up-down and forward-back of the door by loosening the hinge bolts on the door or on the front cowl (hard to get at but you can do it). The ambulance door hinges can be adjusted similarly to get them to fit up tighter.

If the handle or window crank or locking mechanism is sticking remove the door card (inside panel) and lube any place that moves, slides or pivots with white grease in an aerosol can. You have to remove the window crank to do that as well as the clips that hold it to the door. Some guys will tell you to use a rag around the window crank to remove the clip that retains it but you can buy a fork like tool to do this easier, Harbor Freight has the fork and some plastic tools for removing interior trim that are handy for removing the panel from the door. You can also lube the ambulance door lock mechanism easier as its' all right out there. Diagrams showing all of these lock and hinge mechanisms are available at Spector Off Road sor.com

Good luck,
Pete
 
Jayster, re doors I'm not sure what your problem is but usually it can be adjustments, i.e. removing wind or water inflow, or sticking handles. There are a couple of things that can be adjusted to make the doors fit up better and tighter. One is the striker - I think that's what it's called - which is the loop that attaches to the tub with two large Philips head screws. There is a small steel plate with two threaded holes inside the jamb/tub that the screws thread into so if you loosen the screws you can slide that striker around to make the door latch up tighter or looser. Don't loosen the screws too much or they can pull out of the plate and the plate falls down into never-to-be gotten-back land. You can also adjust the up-down and forward-back of the door by loosening the hinge bolts on the door or on the front cowl (hard to get at but you can do it). The ambulance door hinges can be adjusted similarly to get them to fit up tighter.

If the handle or window crank or locking mechanism is sticking remove the door card (inside panel) and lube any place that moves, slides or pivots with white grease in an aerosol can. You have to remove the window crank to do that as well as the clips that hold it to the door. Some guys will tell you to use a rag around the window crank to remove the clip that retains it but you can buy a fork like tool to do this easier, Harbor Freight has the fork and some plastic tools for removing interior trim that are handy for removing the panel from the door. You can also lube the ambulance door lock mechanism easier as its' all right out there. Diagrams showing all of these lock and hinge mechanisms are available at Spector Off Road sor.com

Good luck,
Pete
Hey Pete..thanks again for the advise. So tonight we lubed up the ambulance doors, and made some adjustments, and they open and close like a charm! The passenger side door is the one that is giving us the most issues. It won't open from the outside, but will from the inside. I'm a little confused on the removing of the inside panel. How would I use a rag around the window crank to remove it? Maybe it will make more sense once I dig into it?? Thanks again Pete...I have a feeling, if you'll let me, I'll be picking your brain a ton:)
 
That rag idea is neat, I'll have to try it myself some time!

Jayster, to get the door handle off there is a c-clip sort of thing holding it on. You should be able to see it if you press the door panel away from the handle. I've used screwdrivers in the past to spread the ends of the clip to get it to pop off, but the rag idea might work as well. Once you see it you will get it.

It's like this:
door_crank_pic.jpg
 
That rag idea is neat, I'll have to try it myself some time!

Jayster, to get the door handle off there is a c-clip sort of thing holding it on. You should be able to see it if you press the door panel away from the handle. I've used screwdrivers in the past to spread the ends of the clip to get it to pop off, but the rag idea might work as well. Once you see it you will get it.

It's like this:
door_crank_pic.jpg
Perfect! That makes more sense now. Thanks sub!
 
Enjoy the journey! They grow up all to fast. Grrrreat looking truck, and getting Mom involved is crucial.
Do not worry what the rear looks like for right now, have a few adventures in it first. I was lucky enough to visit your great State two years ago, and the whole time driving around with the kids in a Suburban, all I could think about was what a great place to travel in a Cruiser. Mabe I can bring my circus out to wheel with your circus sometime in the future!
 
I am going through the same journey with my two boys now. 12 and 15. I love Cruisers. They love Muscle cars. Just stripped down 67 Mustang to repaint. Boys are cleaning up 351 Cleveland that’s going to be rebuilt. They are learning a ton about life. A recent awareness for them about design obsolescence..... One of them could lift the mustang tranny. Three of us could not lift my 80 tranny. Built to last aha moment.

Like many have said before, break it down to smaller projects. I have them do all the research on the next step. I guide them on what to research. Then they go do it. I support. Teach them safety. Have your son find good friends on Mud. So vital that they meet friends through this journey.

You are blessed.

8D72F300-077B-46F5-827C-32672DCD7DC4.jpeg


AA33F80C-22FB-443C-B910-DCADCC180A2A.jpeg
 
Hey Pete..thanks again for the advise. So tonight we lubed up the ambulance doors, and made some adjustments, and they open and close like a charm! The passenger side door is the one that is giving us the most issues. It won't open from the outside, but will from the inside. I'm a little confused on the removing of the inside panel. How would I use a rag around the window crank to remove it? Maybe it will make more sense once I dig into it?? Thanks again Pete...I have a feeling, if you'll let me, I'll be picking your brain a ton:)

Jayster,

Subzali's post has the tool I was referring to. I've never used the rag trick, just read about it some place and as you can see from the sketch, the rag supposedly opens up the clip and might keep it from flying off into thin air! Once you get the panel off you'll see the linkage from the inside handle and outside handle and I have to admit it's been years since I've seen the inside but my hunch is the cable or rod that is part of the linkage is stuck or broken. You can get a new handle if it's broken that's OEM or after market, depending on how much you want to spend.

There's tons of guys here and elsewhere that know way more than I do about Cruisers and lots of other things but I'll gladly give you opinions and whatever advice i can so feel free to fire away. I've always liked trying to figure out how things work and fixing what I can and that's half the fun of these beasts to me.

Pete
 
This is Josh the 13-year old my dad has been talking about. We have been just been doing small little things. For example we have been cleaning up the car and maybe our work area :)), but also we oiled and tightened some of the handles so they are a little smoother, they all open and close great now. Also that rag trick worked like a charm. So now it is going to get a little harder. But as we are looking at the doors my dad sees that the window felt isn't great and is kind of falling apart. So we are wondering if we should order them now or after we paint and stuff (which won't be for months). Also if you guys have any idea where we could get some. (we have found some on amazon but not sure if they fit/even work)

Thanks for all your help so far, it has been a big help.

Josh
 
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This is Josh the 13-year old my dad has been talking about. We have been just been doing small little things. For example we have been cleaning up the car and maybe our work area :)), but also we oiled and tightened some of the handles so they are a little smoother, they all open and close great now. Also that rag trick worked like a charm. So now it is going to get a little harder. But as we are looking at the doors my dad sees that the window felt isn't great and is kind of falling apart. So we are wondering if we should order them now or after we paint and stuff (which won't be for months). Also if you guys have any idea where we could get some. (we have found some on amazon but not sure if they fit/even work)

Thanks for all your help so far, it has been a big help.

Josh

Welcome, Josh. Check out our vendors section for 40 parts. There are also alot of great used parts in the Mud classifieds. Youtube is a great learning tool. Trollhole was also nice enough to upload the FSM https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAAegQICRAB&usg=AOvVaw2AkgKjwV93zDkP795Y51aY

Good Luck!
 
Josh,

Welcome to ih8mud and FJ40s! From what your dad said you made a great choice for your first vehicle. As jdc pointed out there are a lot of vendors that offer parts and a lot of resources here including the classifieds for used parts. One thing you'll have to often decide is when to go with aftermarket parts and when to go with Toyota OEM parts. A lot of stuff it doesn't matter much but for any engine or clutch or brake parts like wheel and master cylinders, water pumps, etc. I prefer OEM. A lot depends on finances as aftermarket parts might be as little as half the price or even less of OEM, but I'm sure you've heard you get what you pay for. For something simple like door weather stripping I went aftermarket on a couple of Cruisers I owned over several years when funds were a little tight. A few years ago on another Cruiser I went with OEM and there is no comparison, I'll never go aftermarket if Toyota parts are still available.

Re your question about window felts you definitely want to do any painting with those removed but you can get new ones now and then remove them when you're ready to paint. They are held on with 4 or 5 little clips that are a real bear for my fat old hands to get at but you could probably do it fine. I don't know if those are available aftermarket but I'd go OEM as they aren't that much. Same goes for your window channels - one of the best ways to eliminate a lot of rattles and air leaks is to replace those if they're in bad shape. I've ordered a lot of OEM parts from Griffith Motorsports, a smaller Toyota and Honda dealer in the Dalles (Columbia gorge area ) Oregon. They sell a lot of stuff through eBay but you can order directly from them by phone to their parts department.

Good luck!
Pete
 
It was mentioned earlier but that front axle needs a rebuild with how dry they look in the pictures. Definitely do not put it in 4wd before doing so. @OTRAMM just recently posted a really good video series on rebuilding a front axle on a 60 series which is essentially the same save for a few torque specs.

Knuckle Rebuild Video Series

Also, don't buy parts off Amazon or eBay. Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit is a great one stop shop for all your parts needs. Especially as a newbie you need a friendly parts guy who will get you everything you need and nothing you don't. They sell quality after market and OEM parts too.
 
BTW, see if it has the data plate in the engine bay and post up a pic. I'm curious what the original color was on this 40.
 
It was mentioned earlier but that front axle needs a rebuild with how dry they look in the pictures. Definitely do not put it in 4wd before doing so. @OTRAMM just recently posted a really good video series on rebuilding a front axle on a 60 series which is essentially the same save for a few torque specs.

Knuckle Rebuild Video Series

Also, don't buy parts off Amazon or eBay. Cruiser Outfitters @cruiseroutfit is a great one stop shop for all your parts needs. Especially as a newbie you need a friendly parts guy who will get you everything you need and nothing you don't. They sell quality after market and OEM parts too.
Ok, so I'm glad you said something....so when it was said earlier that he hadn't seen a knuckle that clean ever in a '76, that was a bad thing, not a good thing:) I'll check out that video and make sure we don't engage the 4x4 until we get that knuckle rebuilt
 
BTW, see if it has the data plate in the engine bay and post up a pic. I'm curious what the original color was on this 40.
So I'm not sure if the data plate you're referring to is the plate located on the driver side post, but if so, it was painted over. You can still see the production month (November), and the VIN number (212050), but nothing else. I just texted the PO and he said it was Beige. I might go back to the original, as my son loves the beige. What are your thoughts?
 
Nice rig, great story !

Beige is a nice color, keep it original



:cheers:
 
So I'm not sure if the data plate you're referring to is the plate located on the driver side post, but if so, it was painted over. You can still see the production month (November), and the VIN number (212050), but nothing else. I just texted the PO and he said it was Beige. I might go back to the original, as my son loves the beige. What are your thoughts?

Check in the engine bay too. I think there one in there as well. Definitely go back to the original color, especially if it's one you guys like. There are 2 different beiges so you'll have figure out which is right for the year if the engine bay data plate is gone.
 

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