Builds A 13 Year Old and His Future '76 FJ40

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If you are in utah I would take it to cruiser outfitters and pay them to look it over mechanically and body-wise and give you specifics on the condition of the rig. May cost you 2 or 300 bucks to pay them to do that but will give you a professional hands on idea of what you got. Personally, I can't tell whats going on with that 40 except that its obviously been painted, cant tell if their is a bunch of chicken wire and bondo in the panels or if its just mild rust. I have a aqualu 3/4 tub, I really like it. The original steel bodies have a lot of places where corrosives can sit and be difficult to wash out, thats why I went aluminum. Just my opinion. But like I said I would get a professional opinion first or at minimum take a bunch of pictures of the truck and post them here and we can do our best to give you a idea.
 
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Hey Mudders, Thanks SO much for the responses so far. Tonight I'm going to take lots of pictures so that everyone can get a better idea of what we have. I really appreciate the advice to take on one project at a time, and love the idea of not getting too deep into the project before I discover we can't finish it (and fire sell it on Craigslist). Stand by for pics. Thanks again!
 
Sure looks like you are starting with a nice cruiser. The advice to not immediately tear it down right away is solid.

40’s can be dangerous, search some posts by @lcwizard on safety. I would consider a Metal Tech roll cage or see if lcwizard would build you one. He is 4plus products and builds incredible stuff. I bought the MT family cage kit, a mig welder, a Baleigh notcher and taught myself to weld. Lots of good diy youtube video’s.

Looking forward to a photo dump:cheers:
 
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Ok, so here is my first photo dump. Couple more things.... It starts without a whole lot of effort, it brakes just fine, and it turns without any crazy noises (except me grunting to muscle it). As you'll see in the photos below, there seams to be fluid buildup throughout, which I'm sure will need to be addressed (thoughts?) I don't see much bondo on the body...but maybe I'm not sure what I'm looking for? I really liked the suggestion of taking it to a local professional to do an assessment on it....that would be another great start (other than finding this forum:)

Take a look at these pics, tell me if you'd like to see more, or maybe something at a different angle. I could also get a video of it all if that would help. Again, thanks so much for your help and advise already!

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Thats pretty decent!

Well worth repairing the steel unless you have 4k burning a hole in your pocket for a 3/4 tub.
 
Thats pretty decent!

Well worth repairing the steel unless you have 4k burning a hole in your pocket for a 3/4 tub.
Definitely don't have that sized hole in my pocket:) I think I'll start looking at what it will take to replace those rear quarter panels as well as a real sill. Any good thread links would be awesome!
 
Nice find. That really appears to be in great shape and something you may want to keep for a long time.

As the father of 2 boys, now in their mid 20s, I recommend also purchasing another vehicle as a daily driver.
Something safe and good on fuel that won't upset you when it gets trashed.

My experience is that teenage drivers don't immediately understand the value of what they are driving.
With the 1st son, we restored a firebird convertible and it was dented before he was through the 1st full tank of gas.
2nd son was given my dad's 18 year old Jeep Cherokee with 35K miles. Within 12 months EVERY panel was dented including the roof.

Just my 2 cents.
 
That’s a great 40 to start with! I replaced ALL the steel on my 40 lol. You can find any prefabbed piece of steel for these things. I personally only bought quarter panels pre made, and cut and bent the rest myself. Bought a welder and taught myself how to weld. all I’m saying is YOU GUYS CAN DO IT! All with the help of this website.
 
That’s a great 40 to start with! I replaced ALL the steel on my 40 lol. You can find any prefabbed piece of steel for these things. I personally only bought quarter panels pre made, and cut and bent the rest myself. Bought a welder and taught myself how to weld. all I’m saying is YOU GUYS CAN DO IT! All with the help of this website.
Ok, you guys convinced me that when we are ready to tackle the body work, to repair the steel! First project is to clean it up and get all the doors working well (the passenger side doesn't open real well and the ambulance doors need some love as well). I'll continue to post updated and pics.
 
Ok, you guys convinced me that when we are ready to tackle the body work, to repair the steel! First project is to clean it up and get all the doors working well (the passenger side doesn't open real well and the ambulance doors need some love as well). I'll continue to post updated and pics.
Awesome! And oh sorry I also purchased the rear sill prefabbed! Damn ambulance doors would fly open when I hit bumps :rofl:
 
jayster, you've got a great place to start! With a little (actually more than a little) elbow grease, a few hand tools including an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it, a shop vac, some rattle can Rustoleum, factory service and body manuals, you can have that rig looking like a million bucks! Don't worry about your or your son's lack of experience. I can't think of anything better to learn on - unless it would have been my first Harley, a 1959 XLCH Sportster - than an FJ40. Everything is heavy duty and petty simple technology from the '60s, no electronics to speak of, no computers, no OBD or test equipment needed except maybe a multi-meter and timing light. Oh, I would add to the things I mentioned some Ole Red - equal parts of Kerosene (or diesel fuel), acetone, mineral spirits (or paint thinner), and automatic transmission fluid which makes the best penetrating fluid/rust dissolver you can find. Put it in a metal squirt-type oil can (it destroys plastic spray bottles pretty fast) and shoot on every nut and bolt before you try to loosen them. Some good deep wall 6 pt sockets are a must and air tools can be handy too.

Some of the real pluses I noticed from your pics:
- '76 is a great year, 2F, disc brakes in front, 4 speed, etc.
- your engine looks like it has all the smog controls, vacuum hoses, stock carb and air cleaner, miscellaneous brackets and clamps, even the rubber air intake hose uncracked, in tact. These are the things that nickel and dime you to death!
- your seats front and rear look great, there's a savings of nearly $500 for new covers
-I don't know when I've seen steering knuckles as oil/grease free as yours, surely not on the '71, '76, or '77 that I've owned (but my '78 is much better)

Others referenced new sill and quarter panels and if you want to do it right that's the way to go if you have the bucks. But if you want to save some bucks you can fab a sill with steel tubing you can get from a local steel supplier, I've done this on 2 or 3 rigs. You can also buy a small household current Lincoln or Miller (or cheapo) MIG welder, some 16 gauge sheet metal and you and your son can learn to weld, something you'll be happy to know if you stay in this or any other car/truck/motorcycle hobby, fab your own patch panels and have money left over compared to what buying prefabbed panels can cost. I agree with the others in getting it to run, stop, steer. I'd add to get all the instruments and lighting working which is a snap with a wiring diagram, soldering iron, heat shrink tubing and LOTS OF PATIENCE!

The only thing I can see off the top of my head that could cost you some bucks is a new dash and even then you could go with a plastic cap or look around for an uncracked used original.

Good luck and ih8mud is the place to be for all kinds of good advice!

Pete
 
jayster, you've got a great place to start! With a little (actually more than a little) elbow grease, a few hand tools including an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it, a shop vac, some rattle can Rustoleum, factory service and body manuals, you can have that rig looking like a million bucks! Don't worry about your or your son's lack of experience. I can't think of anything better to learn on - unless it would have been my first Harley, a 1959 XLCH Sportster - than an FJ40. Everything is heavy duty and petty simple technology from the '60s, no electronics to speak of, no computers, no OBD or test equipment needed except maybe a multi-meter and timing light. Oh, I would add to the things I mentioned some Ole Red - equal parts of Kerosene (or diesel fuel), acetone, mineral spirits (or paint thinner), and automatic transmission fluid which makes the best penetrating fluid/rust dissolver you can find. Put it in a metal squirt-type oil can (it destroys plastic spray bottles pretty fast) and shoot on every nut and bolt before you try to loosen them. Some good deep wall 6 pt sockets are a must and air tools can be handy too.

Some of the real pluses I noticed from your pics:
- '76 is a great year, 2F, disc brakes in front, 4 speed, etc.
- your engine looks like it has all the smog controls, vacuum hoses, stock carb and air cleaner, miscellaneous brackets and clamps, even the rubber air intake hose uncracked, in tact. These are the things that nickel and dime you to death!
- your seats front and rear look great, there's a savings of nearly $500 for new covers
-I don't know when I've seen steering knuckles as oil/grease free as yours, surely not on the '71, '76, or '77 that I've owned (but my '78 is much better)

Others referenced new sill and quarter panels and if you want to do it right that's the way to go if you have the bucks. But if you want to save some bucks you can fab a sill with steel tubing you can get from a local steel supplier, I've done this on 2 or 3 rigs. You can also buy a small household current Lincoln or Miller (or cheapo) MIG welder, some 16 gauge sheet metal and you and your son can learn to weld, something you'll be happy to know if you stay in this or any other car/truck/motorcycle hobby, fab your own patch panels and have money left over compared to what buying prefabbed panels can cost. I agree with the others in getting it to run, stop, steer. I'd add to get all the instruments and lighting working which is a snap with a wiring diagram, soldering iron, heat shrink tubing and LOTS OF PATIENCE!

The only thing I can see off the top of my head that could cost you some bucks is a new dash and even then you could go with a plastic cap or look around for an uncracked used original.

Good luck and ih8mud is the place to be for all kinds of good advice!

Pete
That's what I'm talking about Pete! That is all golden advice for me and my son! This is all going onto the "To-Do" objectives for the first 6 months:) I will continue to post as progress is made. Side note, I've been looking for some good threads on door repair. Not rust repair on the doors, but the mechanics and where to find replacement parts...thoughts?
 

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