99 miles to the new sty! (2 Viewers)

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We have 3 gas stations in town, 1 sells 93 octane (66 Ford.) And also sells diesel for tractor. Out of convienance I filled 1 tank in 79 ford started running like 💩 almost right away. Same happened with 66, had to adjust carb just to keep it running. Point is dont buy gas there anymore and haven't had a problem since.🧐🤔🙂
I have been buying the cheapest gas in town... 4.31 gal. Maybe I should reconsider :confused:
 
Round 2 fuel pump rebuild. Simple but somehow I didn't connect the baffle stem correctly, not getting any fuel. Removed the pump again and hoping my reassembly is correct this time. To be continued.
round 2 fuel pump.jpg
fuel pump rebuilt.jpg
 
Happy to report I think I got to the bottom of the fuel issue. After numerous attempts taking the pump on and off again, I did some research and found /did a few simple FP tests which, turned out didn't pass. After isolating the issue (bad oil gasket which I thought was a dust boot) I swapped out the bottom of one pump and put all the rebuild pieces together, made a new gasket and now delivers plenty of fuel. Fired right up and idled. :cool: I was preparing for much worse and thankful it was an easy one... this time.

DIY gasket.jpg
 
Didn't give up and it finally paid off. :)Got me some decent vac finally. Been wrestling with fine tuning the carb for a while now. Turns out the throttle cable was tight so the primary was spewing enough gas throw off a proper tune. Once I figured that out it all came together with a set of new plugs too! ahhhhhhhhhh

got vac.jpg
 
I was pretty excited to just drive it for a bit before the next lil project. From cold start it idles perfectly at low RPMs but I let it warm up &
check it again when temp gauge shows warm w/choke off and idles great close to 700rpms and close to 20 in.hg then, as soon as its warm and I hit the throttle it all goes to s*&^. wont idle, low vac , runs rough. engine dies w/o throttle or choke partially on.
No signs of vac leak. fuel in the sight glass(even after letting it dies then checking it). 2 new filters, new plugs. valves adjusted
, fuel pump has been rebuilt, tank cleaned etc. Erratic idling so thinking it could be plug wires, vac leak, fuel related.. after restart and revving the motor it does idle but at a much lower RPM. fing driving me crazy🤪.
 
I was pretty excited to just drive it for a bit before the next lil project. From cold start it idles perfectly at low RPMs but I let it warm up &
check it again when temp gauge shows warm w/choke off and idles great close to 700rpms and close to 20 in.hg then, as soon as its warm and I hit the throttle it all goes to s*&^. wont idle, low vac , runs rough. engine dies w/o throttle or choke partially on.
No signs of vac leak. fuel in the sight glass(even after letting it dies then checking it). 2 new filters, new plugs. valves adjusted
, fuel pump has been rebuilt, tank cleaned etc. Erratic idling so thinking it could be plug wires, vac leak, fuel related.. after restart and revving the motor it does idle but at a much lower RPM. fing driving me crazy🤪.
Read up on how a choke pulloff works.
Sounds to me like you may be setting your carb/ignition timing with the choke set.

Hitting the gas lowers the idle and releases the choke plate back into the open position for normal driving.

You need to make sure that when you set up your mixture screws, idle, and ignition timing, the engine is not only "warmed up" but that the choke pulloff has activated and opened the choke plate, and moved the high idle cam so that it drops down to idle, not high idle.

Also. Don't feel bad. I know all of these things because I fought my way through them over decades of working on vehicles which should have been retired for people who should take the bus. This was all common knowledge at one point, but nobody took the time to teach me much. I had to dig through motors manuals and figure it all out.
 
Read up on how a choke pulloff works.
Sounds to me like you may be setting your carb/ignition timing with the choke set.

Hitting the gas lowers the idle and releases the choke plate back into the open position for normal driving.

You need to make sure that when you set up your mixture screws, idle, and ignition timing, the engine is not only "warmed up" but that the choke pulloff has activated and opened the choke plate, and moved the high idle cam so that it drops down to idle, not high idle.

Also. Don't feel bad. I know all of these things because I fought my way through them over decades of working on vehicles which should have been retired for people who should take the bus. This was all common knowledge at one point, but nobody took the time to teach me much. I had to dig through motors manuals and figure it all out.
I was looking at how the choke was effecting the idle just didn't understand how, since I did tune when with the choke pushed in all the way before starting but did not activate the choke plate so, this makes sense. Thanks for the insight! I'll try re-tuning with the choke open/ activated.
 
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I was looking at how the choke was effecting the idle just didn't understand how, since I did tune when with the choke pushed in all the way before starting but did not activate the choke plate so, this makes sense. Thanks for the insight! I'll try re-tuning with the choke open/ activated.
The way mine works, you push the choke back in, but it takes a tap of the throttle to knock it off of the high idle cam.

All of your mixture adjustments need to be made off of the high idle cam.
 
The way mine works, you push the choke back in, but it takes a tap of the throttle to knock it off of the high idle cam.

All of your mixture adjustments need to be made off of the high idle cam.
The part I was missing ....but it takes a tap of the throttle to knock it off of the high idle cam.
 
ETHANOL. I have 3 vehicles Idle because of this Bull 💩 gas. Dump a bottle of dry gas in it and see what happens or you are gonna go 🥜s. Fuel line in my 66 Ford might be 4 years old and supposedly E proof is leaking. Find Ethanol free gas 😘
In my case, I an not quite convinced its bad fuel but, I did use premium for my last fill up. So far cant tell much of a difference.
 
Followed advice of @trainbufftony and re-tuned w/ the high idle cam off and had high hopes that this would solve my current woes and I did so albeit at a lower vac (15 in. hg) reading and still have gas from the primary. Instead of being safe w /water checking for leaks I used carb cleaner and did in fact locate a vac leak at the manifold. :(
Not sure if checking/ retightening the manifold bolts will help but that's what I'll do to start. Maybe should have checked the surface for being flat before reinstalling the gasket. damn it.
 
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I can see why the call these "F "engines its either fantastic or ..... I am assuming I should have the manifold milled flat? or could it be that I just tightened the vertical bolt before torqueing the bolts to the head (rookie mistake). Seems both sides of the exhaust were set back from the intake. The good news is doesn't take much time to do this.

Seeking advice from the experts..

vac leak.jpg
maifold flat.jpg
 
Iam not a expert but sounds good, looks like it was the exhaust that had the Leak , but I think yes have it surfaced, I try not to separate intake and exhaust if I can, I am not sure of the process for surfacing good luck
 

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