Builds '97 LX450 - Build it, break it, wheel it, fix it! (2 Viewers)

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You can pull the panel off with the door shut? Seems like it would break all the tabs?

Yep, you can. Once the screws are out, you can get under and edge near the weathersrtrip and pop them loose. Its a pain, and you need to be careful, but I have done it more than once.. I think I also pulled off the A-pillar trim before trying to get the door panel off. That gives you a bit more room.
 
I'll look into the door in the next few days...thank you!

Went out to get away from folks and do a little testing. I went up and down about 3200 feet, turns out the 37's are a lot heavier and my truck, which was no speed demon to begin with is now super slow. Also, the brakes which always fade with heat coming down now overheated so bad they frankly didn't work at all. Also, a little rubbing in the back...hammertime
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Moral of the story, like every change, there are ripple effects so I need to think about what to do, might re-gear and think about how to address the brakes.

Current gears are 4.88 and brakes are newer, both rotors and pads ...
 
Lookin good there.
Weird, I have new brakes last year & they work great, new brake booster also. I have 488s plus the SUMO 10% underdrive high Tcase set works awesome. 5:36 final drive. Have you advanced your timing yet? I did makes things a bit snappier off the line. I hope you get it all figured out soon.
Happy Trails...
How were the engone temps?
 
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I think I'll try new pads...it is a tough hill, goolge Refugio rd in Santa Barbara. Anyway, needs to get sorted out at some point.

I'll mess with the timing, but I think 5.29s are in my future...maybe.


Good news is that it stayed cool as a cucumber, ran the AC too try and get it hot...nope.

Might add 10mm spacers to get just a tad more height to help with the rear...

Lastly I might add bump stops...didn't have them before so...
 
Brosky lowered the rear bumps 2" to fit those 37s. DIY it with square tube. :steer:
 
[QUOTE="Noahrob, post: 13041109, might re-gear and think about how to address the brakes.

Current gears are 4.88 and brakes are newer, both rotors and pads ...
[/QUOTE]

I am running 37” and my breaks are nice. I did set the load sensing valve to think it’s loaded to get more rear breaking.
As for regearing I am running 5.29 and it’s nice but they are no substitute for engine power.

great build keep it going. what front seats are you running?
 
great build keep it going. what front seats are you running?

Thanks man...I got those out of a WRX, two tone leather....
 
I suck at updating this thread...went to Coyote lake, 5he Dusy Ershim and Johnson Valley. Truck is great, looking a little more like raisin, but that's what happens. Deleted the abs and had a heck of a time with leaky connections but got that sorted out. Building new exhaust going over the frame...I'll finish as soon as I get the new rollers for my welder.

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How much improvement did you see by deleting ABS? I deleted mine in the spring of 2019 and was not satisfied. In my opinion, the pedal travel was still too long and that’s why I went to the hydro booster and 1.125” MC.

Are you still of the mind to gear down lower? I think about it at times but like the speedo and odometer accuracy with the 4.88’s 37’s. Or maybe that doesn’t matter once you pass 300k and have a collection of dents that’s ever growing. I think I’d go for the 10% under drive gears for the high range in the the transfer case before 5.29 ring and pinions.
 
Well, long story short, one of my welders (Millermatic passport plus) broke so I ordered new rollers and a liner for the 255 so I can run baby wire and finish the exhaust....meaning truck no workie right now so I haven't tested the brakes yet.

In terms of lower gears, it is too bad I didn't know about them when I put the first set of gears in the transfer case, but yeah, Im thinking about it, not so much for the 4oad, but off-road it is just not low enough and a northwest blackbox is a tad pricey...
 
How much improvement did you see by deleting ABS? I deleted mine in the spring of 2019 and was not satisfied. In my opinion, the pedal travel was still too long and that’s why I went to the hydro booster and 1.125” MC.

Are you still of the mind to gear down lower? I think about it at times but like the speedo and odometer accuracy with the 4.88’s 37’s. Or maybe that doesn’t matter once you pass 300k and have a collection of dents that’s ever growing. I think I’d go for the 10% under drive gears for the high range in the the transfer case before 5.29 ring and pinions.
Did you replace the power booster when you did your ABS delete ? I would think that would be your long pedal issue. The booster was replaced at the same time as my ABS delete and yelled big results with none of the issue you have been having with the hydro booster.
If you go with the 10% under drive it dose not change to speedo.
I have had zero issue with the 5.29 even running the 39s and I like to run the hard lines. 😉 I think it's a myth that they are a weaker gear 🤷‍♂️
Lets go wheeling BOYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Did you replace the power booster when you did your ABS delete ? I would think that would be your long pedal issue. The booster was replaced at the same time as my ABS delete and yelled big results with none of the issue you have been having with the hydro booster.
If you go with the 10% under drive it dose not change to speedo.
I have had zero issue with the 5.29 even running the 39s and I like to run the hard lines. 😉 I think it's a myth that they are a weaker gear 🤷‍♂️
Lets go wheeling BOYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’ve had no problems with the hydro booster, they are very reliable. The problem I had was with the Wilwood master cylinder and that’s been remedied with a different MC. Wheeling is always a good idea Richard.
 
I suck at updating this thread...went to Coyote lake, 5he Dusy Ershim and Johnson Valley. Truck is great, looking a little more like raisin, but that's what happens. Deleted the abs and had a heck of a time with leaky connections but got that sorted out. Building new exhaust going over the frame...I'll finish as soon as I get the new rollers for my welder.

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I'm very interested in seeing what your plans are for the exhaust. Looks like you picked up a home build kit. I'm also very interested in your thoughts about gearing as the first time is the right time to do it right for my application. My ABS & VLSV deleat did not yeild a shorter pedal but it definetly increased braking power significantly.
 
I got a bunch of random 90 and 45 degree pieces from summit and then started cutting, cursing, and welding...mostly cursing:)
 
Ok, exhaust is all done.


Brake line is still leaking where the abs was, gotta sort that out then delete the rear heater hose in case the exhaust melts it in the back.
 
I suck at updating this thread...got the brake lines sorted out, had to trim, reflare the brake lines, and then all good. Went on a few adventures, got new hood struts, but now need to deal with engine mounts.

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Sad engine mount...I needed these bolts to get the engine high enough do the fan cleared the shroud

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We like to get out whenever we can...this is at about 3k elevation feet behind santa barbara..nice picnic spot

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