Builds '97 LX450 - Build it, break it, wheel it, fix it! (1 Viewer)

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How much lift do you have?
What tire psi do you run?
Are you going to paint it pink?
Where did you get those dents?
Do you wheel?
Look at all those holes...
OMG its a butt dragger.
Why did you use black zip ties?
What shade of black is that?
What color wax do you use?
Lets go wheelin….:steer:
 
I got the brackets from trail tailor. I'll run stock wheels and just keep cutting until they fit ..

I put the other control arm back on tonight and took off a few brackets, I'll replace the radiator and water pump in the next few days and then start cutting

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[yes, I'm painting it pink...I got the dents at the mall...I use turtle wax...I wheel everyday, at the mall
 
Put some vents in the hood as I spend a fair amount of time fully loaded driving through the middle of CA where is hot hot hot

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great build what fixed the PO401 code?

First I replace everything under the intake manifold, cleaned out the TB, the EGR, as well as the port through the intake manifold, but the stupid code didn't go away so I just left it like that for over a year. Then smog time came (yikes) so I took everything apart again, but this time I used a stiff wire, splayed the end and reamed out the port between the EGR and TB, double cleaned everything....I mean ridiculously over did it. I also zip tied every vacuum line to the connector to make sure there were no leaks. It looked stupid, but alas...no more code.
 
First I replace everything under the intake manifold, cleaned out the TB, the EGR, as well as the port through the intake manifold, but the stupid code didn't go away so I just left it like that for over a year. Then smog time came (yikes) so I took everything apart again, but this time I used a stiff wire, splayed the end and reamed out the port between the EGR and TB, double cleaned everything....I mean ridiculously over did it. I also zip tied every vacuum line to the connector to make sure there were no leaks. It looked stupid, but alas...no more code.
Nice I like you went through everything and still have the code I guess I will try again with more gusto
 
for $36 you can replace front and rear gas struts... not quite as ghetto as shovel handle.
 
I started another thread specifically to try and figure out what is going on with the coolant.



Remember to put cardboard over the radiator when your installing it.

Folks on mud are awesome!

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Made a little progress today, took off the fender, banged the dent out a bit, cut off the sliders, and made my first cut...

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I didn't do too much today, was going to weld, but there's too much wind so I did an experiment with covering holes with tape or the steel putty stuff.

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Ok, ok, ok...you found me out. A shovel handle satisfies two requirements; keeps the hood open and keeps unwelcome visitors at bay.
 
How did the putty thing work out?
If I was to cover the holes, I would try the tape on inside, then apply metal tape on the outside & cut out the hole then fill with some type of filler like liquid metal, JB weld or something like bondo. Then try to peel the metal tape off. Of course I have not played with it to see what would work best.

I got a fj60 hood support from a junk yard for $10 bucks... It has rust on it & everything...
 
I did three tests, tape only, tape and putty and putty only. Not surprisingly the tape and putty method was the best. Putty alone, well I lost a bunch as it fell in the hole...by putting the tape down first, only minimal amount of putty is needed.
 
It was a lot more work than I thought, but I think it looks pretty good. Cut 2" off the fender, closer to 1.5 in the front and 2.5 in the back. I welded in a new lip out of 3"x 18" 18 guage coupons and then screwed the inner to the lip.

All said it probably took me 7+ hours to get the fender done with all the setup and
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wait time during welding. The second one will go way faster, no disassembly and I have all the parts
 
Looks great... might need to go to button head screws on some of those screws.
 

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