Builds 94 FZJ80 - Let the Adventure Ensue (1 Viewer)

[BILT4ME]

Are those pins loose--they can come out when the head is lifted off?

Sometimes, yes. Not always. However, when lifting the head, they sometimes jump out while lifting and end up in a water jacket. You need to look for them and be aware they are there and count them as you pull the head to make sure you find them all, ASSUMING that whoever was there before you actually had them all installed.

 

[Dusten]

Are those pins loose--they can come out when the head is lifted off?

Yup

 

[jaymar]

Sometimes, yes. Not always. However, when lifting the head, they sometimes jump out while lifting and end up in a water jacket. You need to look for them and be aware they are there and count them as you pull the head to make sure you find them all, ASSUMING that whoever was there before you actually had them all installed.

How many SHOULD there be? Is this serious enough to warrant pulling the head with the engine inverted, or is recovery a simple matter, once you know to look? I've never had one of these apart (obviously).

 

[BILT4ME]

Go to partsouq to determine. IDK off the top of my head.

 

[FMC80]

How many SHOULD there be? Is this serious enough to warrant pulling the head with the engine inverted, or is recovery a simple matter, once you know to look? I've never had one of these apart (obviously).

Pull a head while Inverted? Absurd!

Zero G environment. Give NASA a ring. They probably have an engine hoist for you too, not that you’ll need it. Zero G bro.

 

[jaymar]

Zero G environment. Give NASA a ring. They probably have an engine hoist for you too, not that you’ll need it. Zero G bro.

7.3L upside-down on stand. I believe this shot was taken on earth. Pull bolts, strap on, rotate, loosen strap. Though your solution does get me out of needing a crane…

 

[FMC80]

This is my current work setup. I want more lights and room. Despite the humongous garage I have, I still desire more space.

This tool set is awesome. I saw @OGBeno quote this specific set. I bought it a while back and forgot I had it, and it came in very handy during disassembly.

More stuff came in from one of my favorite stores, Aircraft Spruce. Still waiting on other bits to begin my main engine harness fortification. I like the quality of the gear they sell, it’s all top notch. The orange fire sleeve will go back my the EGR, though I’m contemplating deleting the EGR altogether.

Also sent the injectors off this AM to RC Fuel Injection Inc., formerly known as RC Engineering. $29/injector and relatively fast turnaround. Looking forward to seeing the before and after analysis.

 

[FMC80]

It's been about two years since I had the VC off. When I first looked at my valve train, I noticed it wasn't as clean and beautiful as the others I've seen on this forum. @baldilocks suggested I begin using diesel oil because it has more detergents and will help to clean it up. I can't tell much of a difference between then and now, but I've only put on 14K miles since I began using diesel oil.

Before

Now:

 

[White Sheep]

I also use diesel oil now.

 

[baldilocks]

It's been about two years since I had the VC off. When I first looked at my valve train, I noticed it wasn't as clean and beautiful as the others I've seen on this forum. @baldilocks suggested I begin using diesel oil because it has more detergents and will help to clean it up. I can't tell much of a difference between then and now, but I've only put on 14K miles since I began using diesel oil.

Before View attachment 3205600

Now:

View attachment 3205601

That’s strange. What brand oil have you been running? Mine has over 300k and looks like new. As a side note, be sure that the diesel oil you run shows the API designation SN in addition to the CJ,CK designations. SN is means compatible with gas engines and their emissions systems, if you didn’t already know. It hasn’t been too long that the SN was added to the bottle of most main stream DEO’s.

DEO’s in the past had higher levels of ZDDP as an anti-wear additive but it’s bad for CAT’s. Once they started putting CAT’s on diesel pick’ups here they reduced the ZDDP and replaced it with some other anti-wear additive and eventually were able to apply the SN designation. Not all DEO’s bear the SN designation.

I ran DEO in my cruiser for a few years before the SN was added to the side of the jug. When my cats were off about three years ago for exhaust system refresh, they looked perfect inside so perhaps the they had already began reducing the ZDDP prior to adding the SN designation to most fleet DEO’s.

May your cam shafts become clean one day soon and remain spotless forever more my courageous Mud friend. Wrench on!

 

[FMC80]

That’s strange. What brand oil have you been running? Mine has over 300k and looks like new. As a side note, be sure that the diesel oil you run shows the API designation SN in addition to the CJ,CK designations. SN is means compatible with gas engines and their emissions systems, if you didn’t already know. It hasn’t been too long that the SN was added to the bottle of most main stream DEO’s.

DEO’s in the past had higher levels of ZDDP as an anti-wear additive but it’s bad for CAT’s. Once they started putting CAT’s on diesel pick’ups here they reduced the ZDDP and replaced it with some other anti-wear additive and eventually were able to apply the SN designation. Not all DEO’s bear the SN designation.

I ran DEO in my cruiser for a few years before the SN was added to the side of the jug. When my cats were off about three years ago for exhaust system refresh, they looked perfect inside so perhaps the they had already began reducing the ZDDP prior to adding the SN designation to most fleet DEO’s.

May your cam shafts become clean one day soon and remain spotless forever more my courageous Mud friend. Wrench on!

Thanks for the support, brother. As for oils, I swap between Mobile Delvac and Shell Rotella 15W-40 and 5W-40 respectively. It’ll take time to make a difference.

 

[Dusten]

How many SHOULD there be? Is this serious enough to warrant pulling the head with the engine inverted, or is recovery a simple matter, once you know to look? I've never had one of these apart (obviously).

It's easy to tell. The holes for the head bolts where they go will have a recess for the alignment dowels. There's no need to pull the head upside down.

This is obviously not a 1fz but the concept is the same.

See the spot in the head I circled? That's for the alignment dowel.

Same with the block.

 

[FMC80]

Hi guys, I need a little help. I am to the point of removing the camshaft timing gear, and I'm stuck. Technically, the gear is stuck. I removed the chain tensioner, made my paint marks, and zip-tied the chain to the gear, and this is where I am. I can't seem to get the gear to budge at all.
Is it supposed to come off without much resistance, or am I supposed to karate kick this thing off too?

Oops, I spoke too soon. I got it off without much drama, just used very small and incremental push/pull and side-to-side motions until, like my condoms, it slipped right off.

I also need to find an M6x1.00 x 1-20mm service bolt before I can proceed with removing the camshafts. I hope HD has one. Is there a similar bolt on our engines that I can use?

 

[FMC80]

Home Depot actually had what I needed in stock. Unbelievable! FSM calls for a M6 x 1.0 x 16-20mm. I grabbed one of each, a 16mm and 20mm but used the 20mm.

I see a notice/warning in the FSM that states to ensure the camshafts are level upon removal or your head could crack along with your cam shaft. To avoid this, the FSM calls out to do the following.

FSM calls for 0* TDC. Make sure your marks are aligned straight.

Then turn the exhaust camshaft until you can thread in your M6 x 1.0 x 20mm service bolt. Doing this removes the torsional spring force of the sub-gear.

Turn cams until two dots one each gear are at 35* angles.

Closer 35 degrees

Now you loosen the bearing caps in the specific pattern and loosening intervals according to the FSM.

 

[Feldrian]

Home Depot actually had what I needed in stock. Unbelievable! FSM calls for a M6 x 1.0 x 16-20mm. I grabbed one of each, a 16mm and 20mm but used the 20mm.
View attachment 3206421
I see a notice/warning in the FSM that states to ensure the camshafts are level upon removal or your head could crack along with your cam shaft. To avoid this, the FSM calls out to do the following.

FSM calls for 0* TDC. Make sure your marks are aligned straight.

View attachment 3206430

Then turn the exhaust camshaft until you can thread in your M6 x 1.0 x 20mm service bolt. Doing this removes the torsional spring force of the sub-gear.
View attachment 3206431
Turn cams until two dots one each gear are at 35* angles.
View attachment 3206434
Closer 35 degrees
View attachment 3206436
Now you loosen the bearing caps in the specific pattern and loosening intervals according to the FSM.

That M6 didn't come out of a Toyota package. You're clearly ****ing this whole procedure up.

 

[Dusten]

That M6 didn't come out of a Toyota package. You're clearly f***ing this whole procedure up.

And now his brakes are going to fall off.

 

[jaymar]

And now his brakes are going to fall off.

Nah; HG for sure...

 

[FMC80]

Cam shafts are out. No damage noted.

Head bolts were on über tight.

1&2

3&4

5&6

I think I see where the gasket failed on #6. Note, I have water in all cylinders, but 6 is the only one with milkshake.

 

[White Sheep]

Cam shafts are out. No damage noted.
View attachment 3206680

View attachment 3206681
Head bolts were on über tight.
View attachment 3206684
1&2
View attachment 3206686
3&4
View attachment 3206687
5&6
View attachment 3206688
I think I see where the gasket failed on #6. Note, I have water in all cylinders, but 6 is the only one with milkshake.
View attachment 3206692

Yep. Usually 6th or 5th cylinder gasket area that fails.

 

[FMC80]

Happy new year. Got more work done yesterday. Slowly stripping the block. Bagging and tagging. I’m almost to the point of cleaning and I’m waiting on a few more parts before I drop my head off.

I’m replacing the timing chain, gears, and guides. The old ones are intact and in great condition but I bought new ones already so I’m going to use them.

I replaced the hard and soft lines that are impossible to get to with the engine installed. The old set is in great shape too. I didn’t need to replace it but I figured 210k miles, and it’s accessible so why not.