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- #21
Thank you, kind sir.
Builds '94 FZJ80 "Cotton" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter roadstr6
- Start date
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Ah I clicked on their "Extreme" truck & 4x4 brakes, not the stock replacement link. Thanks for setting me straight!
- Thread starter
- #23
I purchased and installed a set of front seat covers from gtcovers.com. The covers I got were Item#:T658 in the color Charcoal/Charcoal. The front set was $238 with an online discount of $20 which totalled out to $218. Shipping was free. I am happy with the fitment and color match of these covers. They have cut-outs for the seat switches and seat back adjustment knob. They also have pockets on the back, front and sides.
![IMG_3857[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "IMG_3857[1].JPG")
In the pic below you can see the pocket sewn onto the front of the seat bottom as well as part of the side bolster pocket. Also visible is the driver seatback twisty knob. The driver's seat back cover has a slit to expose this knob.
Rear pockets.
In the pic below you can see the pocket sewn onto the front of the seat bottom as well as part of the side bolster pocket. Also visible is the driver seatback twisty knob. The driver's seat back cover has a slit to expose this knob.
Rear pockets.
Looking good!
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- #25
I scavenged the magic dial from my parts rig, installed it in the knock-out and plugged it up. I can't wait to get some locking axles under the truck for the switch to operate!
I pulled the hazard switch from my parts truck and attempted to install it as a CDL switch in the lower part of my dash next to the rear heater switch. The wires did reach down that far and I was able to plug it in with a definite click but it just doesn't work as a CDL switch. Maybe there is a difference in the pins between the hazard switches from the earlier trucks vs. '95-'97? My parts truck is a '97 and with Cotton being a '94, something just doesn't jive. I guess I will have to get the proper early curved CDL switch. In case you are wondering, the CDL does work like it should in 4L with the jumper plug seated in the harness. It's just something with the hazard switch. I will say that I doubt if this truck had been in 4L more than once or twice in it's life. The lever is very difficult to pull. I have greased up the linkage and it is getting better but still takes two hands to engage.
I pulled the hazard switch from my parts truck and attempted to install it as a CDL switch in the lower part of my dash next to the rear heater switch. The wires did reach down that far and I was able to plug it in with a definite click but it just doesn't work as a CDL switch. Maybe there is a difference in the pins between the hazard switches from the earlier trucks vs. '95-'97? My parts truck is a '97 and with Cotton being a '94, something just doesn't jive. I guess I will have to get the proper early curved CDL switch. In case you are wondering, the CDL does work like it should in 4L with the jumper plug seated in the harness. It's just something with the hazard switch. I will say that I doubt if this truck had been in 4L more than once or twice in it's life. The lever is very difficult to pull. I have greased up the linkage and it is getting better but still takes two hands to engage.
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- Thread starter
- #26
The leather on my rear seats was in far better shape than the fronts so I didn't bother covering them. I found a trick to somewhat restore the appearance of cracked leather seats and it works pretty well. As I understand it, seat dye is basically the equivalent of paint for leather. Over time, as the leather bends and creases, the seat dye (paint) pops off in tiny pieces and disappears into oblivion leaving unsightly cracks in the color. This is more obvious on darker colored seats like charcoal or black.
The trick is to find spray paint that closely matches your seat color. I used Rustoleum 7784 Charcoal Gray.
![IMG_3853[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "IMG_3853[1].JPG")
Next, wet a section of cotton towel with Lacquer Thinner. Hold the wet rag in one hand and spray a couple of shots of paint directly onto the wet rag. Gently rub the painted section of the rag into the cracked surfaces of your seats. The thinned down paint on the rag easily works down into the cracks and covers them up, mimicking the OE seat dye. It took three or four rounds of re-wetting the rag with thinner and re-spraying and wiping, but the end result was a much better looking seat. I followed the paint trick with a wipe-down of 303 Protectant to hopefully replenish the leather and somewhat seal it. We'll see how long it lasts. This method is not nearly as effective as the higher end seat restoration products like Leatherique, but if you are not set on doing a full leather restoration and want to try something cheap and easy, this may work for you.
Before:
After:
As I said, not perfect but definitely better than before. I can live with that.
The trick is to find spray paint that closely matches your seat color. I used Rustoleum 7784 Charcoal Gray.
Next, wet a section of cotton towel with Lacquer Thinner. Hold the wet rag in one hand and spray a couple of shots of paint directly onto the wet rag. Gently rub the painted section of the rag into the cracked surfaces of your seats. The thinned down paint on the rag easily works down into the cracks and covers them up, mimicking the OE seat dye. It took three or four rounds of re-wetting the rag with thinner and re-spraying and wiping, but the end result was a much better looking seat. I followed the paint trick with a wipe-down of 303 Protectant to hopefully replenish the leather and somewhat seal it. We'll see how long it lasts. This method is not nearly as effective as the higher end seat restoration products like Leatherique, but if you are not set on doing a full leather restoration and want to try something cheap and easy, this may work for you.
Before:
After:
As I said, not perfect but definitely better than before. I can live with that.
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- Thread starter
- #27
Pulled windshield washer diverter valve and hood struts from parts truck and installed on Cotton. Now the washers are fully operational front and rear and hopefully my noggin' won't get any more dents in it than it already has. Vice grips on the old hood struts routine was getting pretty old.
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- Thread starter
- #29
The parts rig I bought has turned out to be a wise investment for me so far. I have sold a few bits and pieces off the carcass for cash and just this weekend I traded a local guy the hood for a set of OME 850J springs. So far, with a little horse trading and with the help and generocity of local club members I have been able to put together a budget lift for Cotton (850J/863 springs, ProComp 9000 shocks and caster bushings). I still need a steering stabilizer and a few other bits and pieces but the major parts are here:
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- #30
Installed the proper early Center Diff Lock switch. It works perfectly!
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- #31
Cotton has been doing occasional light duty around town running errands and such with no issues. Last weekend, Nathan and I made a trip to Uwharrie to play on the trails with his RC crawlers. Cotton did great on the snow-covered gravel roads leading to the Daniel Trailhead and we had alot of fun running Daniel in 1/10th scale.
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- #32
I finally got the locked axles pulled from my parts truck yesterday. I gave them a good pressure washing. Next up, axles will be painted and I will start the process of swapping the locked axles into Cotton.
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Not sure what you guys think but I've seen a few pictures of rolled 80's lately, and man, doesn't look like these trucks have much of an OE roll-cage. Most of the roofs are crumpled almost down to the steering wheel or lower in some sections. I'm surprised Toyota didn't put more steel around their passengers.
-Sanded, primed, painted and cleared the wheel center caps.
Can you please explain how you did this and what you used? The oxidation drives me crazy!
Thanks!!
Can you please explain how you did this and what you used? The oxidation drives me crazy!
Thanks!!
- Thread starter
- #35
There are several threads on here about this. I did the same as most everyone else. Sand the caps by hand with 400 grit to remove the old chipping paint and sand deep enough to remove any crusty yellowed plastic. Follow 400 grit with 600 grit to get everything smoothed out. My truck has the black centers (early FZJ) so I did not sand or paint the very center pieces. I found a plastic cup in the kitchen that sat perfectly in the groove around the black center so I used that to "mask" the center to prevent overspray. Once everything was sanded smooth, I primed the caps with Rustoleum Self Etching Primer (gray). I followed the primer with Rustoleum Metallic Silver 7271 and cleared with Dupli-Color spray clear coat. When everything was nice and dry, I polished the black centers with Novus Plastic Polish.
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- Thread starter
- #36
A semi with what looked like a casket on a pallet showed up at my house today. I opened up the casket and this was inside!
I mounted up my second hand winch (thanks @Izzyandsue). Cotton will be stylin' shortly.
I mounted up my second hand winch (thanks @Izzyandsue). Cotton will be stylin' shortly.
- Thread starter
- #38
My truck has the gray interior.
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Great work Dave! Sub'd for future improvements!
