I used stock shaft which I have found rubs. Gonna look at it this weekend
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If you could share a photo that would be greatly appreciated!
Do you have a 6l80 pan or 6l90? I know one corner is different, but not sure about the rest of the profile.
Mine is a 6l80, I’ll get a picture for you
Hey everyone! Im still around! Finally got that heater core swapped out and dash re-installed, surprising only had a few screws left over! No matter how slow I went still have some extras!
Another item off the list is I finally got the AC working. I had hoses made from supplies I ordered from Cold Hose as others have mentioned. I couldn't get a leak test to pass, so while I had the dash out, I swapped out the evaporator core, expansion valve, and a new condenser. I had already but a new dryer in. Of course it still leaked, and of course the only part not swapped, the original GM compressor! It was leaking from the seam where the two halves come together. Swapped it out, leak checked GTG! Charged up the system working great.
How I have my wiring is all I did was take the power from the old toyota ac plug and spliced on the GM ac compressor. So the Toyota system is working. Only thing I had to come up with was how to get one of my electric fans to kick on. The GM ECM should be able to do it, which I won't get into right now, but for what ever reason, I couldn't get it to work. So I remembered reading a thread called the ABC's of 80s cooling and they talked about adding an AUX fan for AC while trail riding or slow speeds with little airflow. Apparently its was an option overseas. So using the Toyota Hi/Lo pressure switch for the ac coolant system, there's a 3rd position of MID range PSI, I believe it is 250psi, and I know the HI is about 500psi, because during servicing I would see it get to 500psi and shut off every time. So I hooked up a ground through the pressure switch to trigger one of my fan relays. During testing, it would cycle on and off. It seems to be working well. I am aware of the potential for batt bleed down since my relays are batt hot and ground controlled by the GM ECM and now this pressure switch. I know I will be careful of it and I carry a jump box. I will cross that bridge of protentially changing it some how. For now, Ive got AC and a fan to cool the condenser, Im going to take the win.
I just ordered the battery tray mount and mounting plate from Red Line Cruisers to clean up my fan wiring, relay mounting, and fuses for all of this. So we are really just buttoning up loose ends. I have about 650 miles on the swap. With individual drives over a 100 miles. So everything is good so far.
redlinelandcruisers.com
My last thing I need to monkey around with is my shift linkage. I just don't love how mine came out. I have a plan moving forward and will hope to get it done in the next two weeks. Then final button up, wire wrap and get my seats re-covered!
Another item off the list is I finally got the AC working. I had hoses made from supplies I ordered from Cold Hose as others have mentioned. I couldn't get a leak test to pass, so while I had the dash out, I swapped out the evaporator core, expansion valve, and a new condenser. I had already but a new dryer in. Of course it still leaked, and of course the only part not swapped, the original GM compressor! It was leaking from the seam where the two halves come together. Swapped it out, leak checked GTG! Charged up the system working great.
How I have my wiring is all I did was take the power from the old toyota ac plug and spliced on the GM ac compressor. So the Toyota system is working. Only thing I had to come up with was how to get one of my electric fans to kick on. The GM ECM should be able to do it, which I won't get into right now, but for what ever reason, I couldn't get it to work. So I remembered reading a thread called the ABC's of 80s cooling and they talked about adding an AUX fan for AC while trail riding or slow speeds with little airflow. Apparently its was an option overseas. So using the Toyota Hi/Lo pressure switch for the ac coolant system, there's a 3rd position of MID range PSI, I believe it is 250psi, and I know the HI is about 500psi, because during servicing I would see it get to 500psi and shut off every time. So I hooked up a ground through the pressure switch to trigger one of my fan relays. During testing, it would cycle on and off. It seems to be working well. I am aware of the potential for batt bleed down since my relays are batt hot and ground controlled by the GM ECM and now this pressure switch. I know I will be careful of it and I carry a jump box. I will cross that bridge of protentially changing it some how. For now, Ive got AC and a fan to cool the condenser, Im going to take the win.
I just ordered the battery tray mount and mounting plate from Red Line Cruisers to clean up my fan wiring, relay mounting, and fuses for all of this. So we are really just buttoning up loose ends. I have about 650 miles on the swap. With individual drives over a 100 miles. So everything is good so far.
Battery Tray Bar With Accessory Plate, Driver Side USDM, 80-Series FZJ80 Toyota Land Cruiser RL1042 / RL1044 (EL1) - Red Line Land Cruisers
The Red Line Land Cruisers Battery Tray Bar With Accessory Plate is made from aluminum. This material choice is a very desirable metal because it is more
redlinelandcruisers.com
My last thing I need to monkey around with is my shift linkage. I just don't love how mine came out. I have a plan moving forward and will hope to get it done in the next two weeks. Then final button up, wire wrap and get my seats re-covered!
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What's the deal with Lseat leather replacements, website is acting funky, and now I see company called Rides on the forum advertising. I ordered samples from Lseat awhile ago. Now the website is acting up??
Dang no one else is using a 6l80/90 trans?
Okay, what about dbw pedals? Which one has been successful? I’m currently thinking a trailblazer or corvette pedal might be what I try if no one has advice.
Okay, what about dbw pedals? Which one has been successful? I’m currently thinking a trailblazer or corvette pedal might be what I try if no one has advice.
There are several that have used the 6L80 and have posts in this thread, it is intimidating reading through 200+ pages. A couple that come to mind are @azcrackshot, @Scalpel and @Overland Tailor and @SNLC both have posted about doing swaps with a 6L80 tranny. You could always use google and search using the keywords: Ih8mud and 6L80 and get more results.
Thanks! I appreciate you looking out. I have googled and have a couple good threads but was more so hoping to find additional photos of the front drivelines. Doesn’t seem to be a widely talked about part. Lots of 4l80 stuff, but I’ve got a couple ideas for using a 6l90 and hoping to slimmer case would allow what I’m planning. Just trying to find a couple good photos with the body installed and a 6l80/90 in place
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
IMO, use whatever pedal the engine donor had and weld the LC arm to it in a position you like. I know some are plastic though
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I absolutely wouldn’t install one that wasn’t new or rebuilt. They all fail. Usually well below 200k. I don’t have one myself, but have swapped out a lot.
Auto trans reliability track record should be your #1 prerogative for a swap like this. I've been doing swaps a long time and whenever I've incorporated a transmission that wasn't super great thinking it'll be fine with all the good aftermarket support- Builders have these figured out by now- I've been wrong.
I'd suggest using a transmission that has as good a record of reliability as the Aisin 343 or 442 you are removing. Otherwise it's a step backwards.
I'd suggest using a transmission that has as good a record of reliability as the Aisin 343 or 442 you are removing. Otherwise it's a step backwards.
I’m hard press to not use a gen 3 4l60/80. For the parts support alone. But you gotta use what you have.
I have a Gen V L83 in mine, but used a 09-13 corvette pedal (GM 19417903). I cut off the "pedal" portion and welded on the lower section of my stock 80 pedal so it at least looks proper.
I’ve had much better luck with the 6l90 than the 80, especially with an aftermarket tc and turning off tcc 1-4. If I get 50k out of a trans in any of my builds, I’m ecstatic. The engine it’s strapped to makes more than 5x hp what the 1FZ did. It’s all part of the compromise.
I get that. Makes perfect sense. For me, I’ll trade longevity for performance. I can fully appreciate the 1fz/442 for being as reliable as it is… mines 30yrs old and still requires very little maintenance. With the goals they had, Toyota did it right. But it’s also the absolute most boring drivetrain I’ve ever owned. Even my service work truck does 0-60 in low 3s, so I’m willing to sacrifice some longevity for fun factor.
I’m a tech by trade and enjoy the wrenching aspect as much as I do wheeling itself. Just for fun, here’s the boring half of the chassis dyno from my other LS build.
Appreciate the info guys. I like the idea of modding that pedal and welding the oem pad on. Just looks right!
The problem with a forced induction v8 in a land cruiser is that it's in a vehicle that needs to sustain power for long periods under load without everything overheating. Unless it's used for just getting ice cream down the street of course. Which many are.
I have a 6l80 it rubs on the shifter bracket when suspension is really compressed, so that will be a easy fix. Sorry one problem I have is vertigo when looking up
so I have to take pictures quickly while the world is spinning.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Buddy of mine has vertigo came put of know where now days if he gets under a truck lifts his hands up to touch anything and it's night night crazy stuff.
Truly appreciated!!!
Did you have to change connector on wire harness to use 09-13 Corvette pedal or they use same connector?
Honestly, I don’t know the answer to that. The place that I got my harness and computer from also supplied the pedal. I opted for the corvette pedal specifically because of the metal arm. I don’t know if they included a different connector or if that’s a standard GM item.
