8x Series V8 Swaps (16 Viewers)

[PIP]

Did you mean to post a pic ? sounds interesting

The Cummins setup is totally different from what I have in mind for the V8 swap stuff. Just the sensor would carry over. I just bring it up because it works good. Plug and play. Nothing to go bad besides an $8 sensor that every parts store carries. At first I was thinking it would be goofy to add a tach sensor and run it off the LS belt, but the more I mulled it over it doesn't sound bad compared to pulling your dash or buying and wiring in a Dakota box.

I've used Dakota boxes and they work pretty good as far as setup and the electronics go. I really dislike the screw terminals though. I've asked them to please offer a version with a metripack connector, but they don't like that idea. I've experienced the wires coming loose from the Dakota screw terminal blocks a lot. You mount it in a hard to reach spot and often enough to piss me off the connections come loose. Even with tinned wires and a strain relief.

Just thought I'd bring up the LS swap tach drive idea to gauge interest. I think it'd be easy enough to make them if there's any interest.

 

[thatcabledude]

idea. I've experienced the wires coming loose from the Dakota screw terminal blocks a lot. You mount it in a hard to reach spot and often enough to piss me off the connections come loose. Even with tinned wires and a strain relief.

That’s exactly what I’m hoping is my issue. I agree I hate those style terminals. Especially for small wires.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

That’s exactly what I’m hoping is my issue. I agree I hate those style terminals. Especially for small wires.

Could tin the wires before you screw them down will more solid than the wires fraying out once tight.

 

[cruisermatt]

It's simple. Just dunk the entire Dakota Digital unit and wires into a solid epoxy mold after assembled and programmed.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Or that

 

[NeverFinis]

I am not really sure about those screw down terminals that Dakota Digital uses either.

The MSD solid state relay that I am using also use them. MSD recommends using locktite on the screws after installation.

I am using Wire Ferrules. Solder in tinned wires will move over time.

 

[thatcabledude]

It's simple. Just dunk the entire Dakota Digital unit and wires into a solid epoxy mold after assembled and programmed.

Can I stop by and have you do this for me? Sounds like you have it down pat

 

[AcroSteve]

100% bolt-in AC hose kit for Gen 3/4 truck compressor (and assuming using 4l60e/6l80e with stock crossmember/transfer placement) will be available to order soon. Will be a suction hose and high pressure hose (from compressor to condenser) already crimped to length, with adapters for firewall and condenser (with optional trinary switch port on condenser adapter) and compressor adapters.

View attachment 3539589

View attachment 3539590

Matt, would there be an option for FJ60 connectors at the firewall?

Here's the compressor configuration on my gen V L8T for reference too.

Sorry fir the 60 question, but I'm building a 140


Thanks

 

[NeverFinis]

What did everyone do for Cats?

I see there are EPA and California rated cats. The latter having better construction, warranted to last longer but cost more.

I think the biggest cat I can fit inside the frame rails is a 2.5" in/out with a 4" diameter body without a heat shield.

I am thinking either a Magnaflow Spun Cat or maybe go cheap and get a couple of cheap Amazon cats and worry about replacing later if they fail.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I've used the magnaflow ones but I'm not in California

 

[thatcabledude]

What did everyone do for Cats?

 

[PIP]

What did everyone do for Cats?

I see there are EPA and California rated cats. The latter having better construction, warranted to last longer but cost more.

I think the biggest cat I can fit inside the frame rails is a 2.5" in/out with a 4" diameter body without a heat shield.

I am thinking either a Magnaflow Spun Cat or maybe go cheap and get a couple of cheap Amazon cats and worry about replacing later if they fail.

My neighbor owns a business that produces exhaust systems. He's told me cheap cats are absolute garbage and it's hard to get a cat that's built anywhere close to as good as an OEM one.

 

[tyjova]

Working through a 5.3 rebuild now. The internals all look to be in pretty good shape for what I believe to be around a 200K motor, but I figured since I have this thing down to the bare block, I might as well replace most all that I can so that I know it will be solid for a long time. Just a couple questions as I wade through this journey....

What has everybody done bore size wise? Talking with some people on LS forums, it seems like for the 5.3 in this case a lot of people suggested going 0.020 over. I'm doing my best to keep to not get overwhelmed by the insane amount of customizability of a motor build so I was mostly planning to stick to stock sizing on everything to keep things simple. However if the over bore is worth the extra time, cost at the machine shop, etc, I'm happy to go down that road.

What about cams? In the LS world it seems like all these cam swaps are for the "chop" and squeezing every bit of horsepower out as possible. Which is all well and good and I like going fast, but for something like a Land Cruiser is a fancy new cam worth it if the stock one seems to be ok? Seems like a mild stage one with new springs, push rods, etc for something like this isn't a bad idea either?

More than anything I'm trying to give this motor as good of a refresh as possible, but without going down the crazy rabbit hole of spending god knows how much on all these fancy upgraded internal components that in the long run really won't be too much benefit for something that is geared more towards road trips, 4wheeling, and all that. Just trying to keep things as simple, reliable, and cost effective as possible, but I know that is always easier said than done!

 

[White Stripe]

Working through a 5.3 rebuild now. The internals all look to be in pretty good shape for what I believe to be around a 200K motor, but I figured since I have this thing down to the bare block, I might as well replace most all that I can so that I know it will be solid for a long time. Just a couple questions as I wade through this journey....

What has everybody done bore size wise? Talking with some people on LS forums, it seems like for the 5.3 in this case a lot of people suggested going 0.020 over. I'm doing my best to keep to not get overwhelmed by the insane amount of customizability of a motor build so I was mostly planning to stick to stock sizing on everything to keep things simple. However if the over bore is worth the extra time, cost at the machine shop, etc, I'm happy to go down that road.

What about cams? In the LS world it seems like all these cam swaps are for the "chop" and squeezing every bit of horsepower out as possible. Which is all well and good and I like going fast, but for something like a Land Cruiser is a fancy new cam worth it if the stock one seems to be ok? Seems like a mild stage one with new springs, push rods, etc for something like this isn't a bad idea either?

More than anything I'm trying to give this motor as good of a refresh as possible, but without going down the crazy rabbit hole of spending god knows how much on all these fancy upgraded internal components that in the long run really won't be too much benefit for something that is geared more towards road trips, 4wheeling, and all that. Just trying to keep things as simple, reliable, and cost effective as possible, but I know that is always easier said than done!

Are the stock pistons reusable? If not I would build a 6.0 instead. As far as the 5.3, if the pistons are reusable, get some nice rings, get it professionally honed. For bearings, the machine shop can tell you what to do. Get good lifters and gm trays. For a cam, the truck norris cam kit should give you about 50hp over stock and more torque. For boring it out, that depends on your piston selection and cylinder wall condition/clearance.

 

[McDowra]

Working through a 5.3 rebuild now. The internals all look to be in pretty good shape for what I believe to be around a 200K motor, but I figured since I have this thing down to the bare block, I might as well replace most all that I can so that I know it will be solid for a long time. Just a couple questions as I wade through this journey....

What has everybody done bore size wise? Talking with some people on LS forums, it seems like for the 5.3 in this case a lot of people suggested going 0.020 over. I'm doing my best to keep to not get overwhelmed by the insane amount of customizability of a motor build so I was mostly planning to stick to stock sizing on everything to keep things simple. However if the over bore is worth the extra time, cost at the machine shop, etc, I'm happy to go down that road.

What about cams? In the LS world it seems like all these cam swaps are for the "chop" and squeezing every bit of horsepower out as possible. Which is all well and good and I like going fast, but for something like a Land Cruiser is a fancy new cam worth it if the stock one seems to be ok? Seems like a mild stage one with new springs, push rods, etc for something like this isn't a bad idea either?

More than anything I'm trying to give this motor as good of a refresh as possible, but without going down the crazy rabbit hole of spending god knows how much on all these fancy upgraded internal components that in the long run really won't be too much benefit for something that is geared more towards road trips, 4wheeling, and all that. Just trying to keep things as simple, reliable, and cost effective as possible, but I know that is always easier said than done!

I did what you are trying to do with my 6.0. We bored it .020 and put it back stock with the exception of a melling MTC-8 camshaft. It is a small upgrade camshaft made to make torque, my machine shop's cam grinder actually suggested it instead of a custom ground camshaft. I am having trouble with a 606 code but this thing has so much more torque than I expected.

 

[tyjova]

Are the stock pistons reusable? If not I would build a 6.0 instead. As far as the 5.3, if the pistons are reusable, get some nice rings, get it professionally honed. For bearings, the machine shop can tell you what to do. Get good lifters and gm trays. For a cam, the truck norris cam kit should give you about 50hp over stock and more torque. For boring it out, that depends on your piston selection and cylinder wall condition/clearance.

The stock pistons are more so on the end of not being reusable than anything. I'd love to have gotten a 6.0 as that was the original plan but I came across this 5.3 in decent shape for a killer deal so it was hard to pass up. I think what the plan is going to be is getting a full kit together from WS6Store or Summit. Those have just about everything needed for a refresh/rebuild other than a few other components I'll be replacing like push rods and lifters. The block is in pretty good shape actually and I'd consider not even getting it machined and just doing some basic honing and cleanup myself but if I'm going this far with it I should probably fork out the extra cash to get it professionally done. And if I'm doing that I should probably get the smaller overbore as well to squeeze out a bit extra. Definitely no surprise for a project like this when costs start adding up, but that's part of the process I guess!

 

[PIP]

If you're not boring oversize and replacing the pistons it's a waste of time and money to have a machine shop rigid hone it. Just hand hone it with a dingle ball hone in a drill. You'll get the same results.

New pistons, rings, oversize bore, flat decks with the correct RA, CNC honing with the correct finish for the rings you are using and clearance for the actual pistons you are running, valves ground properly, seats cut, not ground, rotating assembly weight matched and dynamically balanced- These things would be the bare minimum machinework to rebuild a modern engine in my opinion.

You don't have to do all that, but if you want a nice engine that will live a long life with normal maintenance it's a good idea.

If you aren't doing all that it usually makes the most sense to just buy a used engine that's good to start with.

 

[Feldrian]

If you're not boring oversize and replacing the pistons it's a waste of time and money to have a machine shop rigid hone it. Just hand hone it with a dingle ball hone in a drill. You'll get the same results.

New pistons, rings, oversize bore, flat decks with the correct RA, CNC honing with the correct finish for the rings you are using and clearance for the actual pistons you are running, valves ground properly, seats cut, not ground, rotating assembly weight matched and dynamically balanced- These things would be the bare minimum machinework to rebuild a modern engine in my opinion.

You don't have to do all that, but if you want a nice engine that will live a long life with normal maintenance it's a good idea.

If you aren't doing all that it usually makes the most sense to just buy a used engine that's good to start with.

Exactly the reason I bought a crate engine. After doing the math to refurb a "runner" I picked up from somewhere but would benefit from a refresh and a DOD delete before being installed it just made more sense.

 

['74 UA FJ]

I bought a running driving 2002 GMC 2500 for $1000. 335K miles. Just tore the engine down the bare block. Everything was in excellent shape. I could have just stuck a supercharger on it and ran it. But now it's going to get basically an LS3 build with the truck intake. Bore it .065" to make it a 6.2, flat tops and deck and head work to get to about 10.5:1 and a camshaft similar to the LS3 with maybe a little better low end torque. I'm gonna have 10-15 thousand dollars in it I'm sure. Definitely not the cheapest route to go but it'll be a hot one.

 

[White Stripe]

In my opin

I bought a running driving 2002 GMC 2500 for $1000. 335K miles. Just tore the engine down the bare block. Everything was in excellent shape. I could have just stuck a supercharger on it and ran it. But now it's going to get basically an LS3 build with the truck intake. Bore it .065" to make it a 6.2, flat tops and deck and head work to get to about 10.5:1 and a camshaft similar to the LS3 with maybe a little better low end torque. I'm gonna have 10-15 thousand dollars in it I'm sure. Definitely not the cheapest route to go but it'll be a hot one.

In my opinion if you have 10-15k you can get more bang for your buck by getting a dart LS block and boring and stroking it to a 7.4 liter. I considered boring my 6.0 to a 6.2. Of the dyno tests I looked up, the difference between a 6.0 and a 6.2 is about 20hp, so I decided against it. You can also stroke the 6.0 block, bore it .030 and put a 4.0 stroker crank which makes it a 6.8liter. I saw pretty big power gains in the dyno videos I watched with a stroker crank. You can also just supercharge or turbo the 6.0 as is and get good power.