How my standalone wiring harness is setup, it has the ECU inside of the cab
Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)
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NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Yes, but without the base mount.
The shifter side of the cable snaps into it, and you just use a couple of M6 bolts to attach it to where ever. I will be making a sheet metal bracket to put it in the right spot.
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Bottom View:
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I made a similar set up out of a 3” section of 1.25” angle iron. Used 2 m6 weld studs on the trans tunnel. The 3d printed mount is slick though!
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Here is the 3D bracket installed.
I quickly made a flat bar to act as a washer, and to hold it all together to strengthen it. There are two M6 rivnuts installed on the body that you can't see.
The 3D printed bracket needs adjustments because I assumed I was going to make a base plate for it to bolt to, but I don't think a base plate is needed. However, this means the angle is off. The transmission cable is tilted when it should be pointed straight at the shifter. I can fix this in the design.
Results? The Toyota gear shift appears to hit every position on the transmission including the last one "L". I can feel the transmission hit each indent when I shift through the positions. I am surprised how much force a 6l90e requires to move from P to R.
Until I get it driving, I won't know for certain how well the shifting actually works.
I need to find a much shorter transmission cable...
Sum up.
The 23° angle was used to put the cable parallel to the top of the transmission tunnel, not at an angle as shown here. I either have to add an bracket to drop the cable down, or adjust the angle of the lever again. I might do the latter, even though it requires cutting and welding the lever again, because it puts the cable closer to the body which helps with clearance and it also means no bracket required, just the 3D part.
I finished changing the gear shift lever to 13° forward of stock, not 23° as before. The angle between pivot to pivot relative to the transmission shifter plate is 38°.
This puts the cable end where it is simpler to mount, directly on the body. I modified the 3D mount so it has a slight tilt, which points the cable end towards the gear shift. lever when it is in the park position.
The distance between the two pivots is still at 96mm.
I also removed the rubber mount on the gear shift lever, which can be seen in the picture, and made it a hard attachment point. The rubber mount had too much movement.
New mount design
I quickly made a flat bar to act as a washer, and to hold it all together to strengthen it. There are two M6 rivnuts installed on the body that you can't see.
The 3D printed bracket needs adjustments because I assumed I was going to make a base plate for it to bolt to, but I don't think a base plate is needed. However, this means the angle is off. The transmission cable is tilted when it should be pointed straight at the shifter. I can fix this in the design.
Results? The Toyota gear shift appears to hit every position on the transmission including the last one "L". I can feel the transmission hit each indent when I shift through the positions. I am surprised how much force a 6l90e requires to move from P to R.
Until I get it driving, I won't know for certain how well the shifting actually works.
I need to find a much shorter transmission cable...
Sum up.
- Shortened Toyota's gear shift level to 96mm, as measured from pivot to pivot.
- While shortening the lever, I tilted the gear shift lever forward 23 degrees.
- Designed a 3D bracket to capture the end of the transmission cable.
EDITED TO ADD:
The 23° angle was used to put the cable parallel to the top of the transmission tunnel, not at an angle as shown here. I either have to add an bracket to drop the cable down, or adjust the angle of the lever again. I might do the latter, even though it requires cutting and welding the lever again, because it puts the cable closer to the body which helps with clearance and it also means no bracket required, just the 3D part.
I finished changing the gear shift lever to 13° forward of stock, not 23° as before. The angle between pivot to pivot relative to the transmission shifter plate is 38°.
This puts the cable end where it is simpler to mount, directly on the body. I modified the 3D mount so it has a slight tilt, which points the cable end towards the gear shift. lever when it is in the park position.
The distance between the two pivots is still at 96mm.
I also removed the rubber mount on the gear shift lever, which can be seen in the picture, and made it a hard attachment point. The rubber mount had too much movement.
New mount design
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So, I'm planning on several external gages on my L8T. Which has some similarities with the LS engines.
I'm gonna have engine oil temp and pressure. The factory pressure sender is just under the throttle body. I'd prefer to avoid that area. There's what I assume is an oil temperature sensor on the cooler line adapter.
That sensor is not used on my stand alone harness. Can I get proper oil pressure there? I would prefer to locate both the pressure and temperature sensors there. My concern is that that port could be affected by a thermostat. I have no knowledge of that one way or another.
Is there a better location somewhere else on the engine that may be away from the exhaust?
Water temp will be somewhere around tge front of the engine. Perhaps drilling and tapping a dedicated port near the t-stat. Or more likely, a tee in the heater core hose.
I'm gonna have engine oil temp and pressure. The factory pressure sender is just under the throttle body. I'd prefer to avoid that area. There's what I assume is an oil temperature sensor on the cooler line adapter.
That sensor is not used on my stand alone harness. Can I get proper oil pressure there? I would prefer to locate both the pressure and temperature sensors there. My concern is that that port could be affected by a thermostat. I have no knowledge of that one way or another.
Is there a better location somewhere else on the engine that may be away from the exhaust?
Water temp will be somewhere around tge front of the engine. Perhaps drilling and tapping a dedicated port near the t-stat. Or more likely, a tee in the heater core hose.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
Just added @cruisermatt's DBW delete block on the 80
View attachment 3485218View attachment 3485219View attachment 3485221View attachment 3485222
Something I didn't know I needed until now...
Any of yall running a transmission temp sensor off of a 4L60E? If so where you tapping from and how? My Scangauge ll gives me that option, but I'm running Speed Hut gauges & have a dedicated gauge for this...
TIA
TIA
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I have done it on a customer's 4l80e there is a port on the driver side of the transmission on it . Also installed speed hut gauges with trans temperature.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
No problem
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Basically same thing as 4l80e but they talk about would be better in other places but it worked for me.
1/8 plug just above the selector shaft. Drivers side.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Drilled and tapped a piece of scrap steel and welded to the pan on driver side. (Only pic I have)
For the oil temperature?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Yeah
For what it’s worth
I’ve done it both ways, the Cruiser with sensor in the pan works fine. I’m still building the the one with the sensor in the port. I have the feeling that it will be ok too.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
For anyone who cares, that guy pointed in the exact location on the pan I placed mine.
