Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (5 Viewers)

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Was the interference with the steering? I’m wondering more on the cats and y pipe fitting inside the frame.
It was hitting the frame. I’m pretty sure you need to use the cats from the engine you purchased. They are sticklers for everything and anything to do with cats.
I purchased everything from a yard up in sac. Engine, harness, ecm, air box, cats, pedal, pedal module.
My buddy was able to fit the cats inside the frame rails but it is tight, and there was no way to keep the front sway bar on with the original cats. Didn’t really bother me as I knew I would eventually redo the exhaust after inspection.
 
It was hitting the frame. I’m pretty sure you need to use the cats from the engine you purchased. They are sticklers for everything and anything to do with cats.
I purchased everything from a yard up in sac. Engine, harness, ecm, air box, cats, pedal, pedal module.
My buddy was able to fit the cats inside the frame rails but it is tight, and there was no way to keep the front sway bar on with the original cats. Didn’t really bother me as I knew I would eventually redo the exhaust after inspection.
Are you and your buddy still in the Bay Area? I’m in Sac and would love to see them in person for reference. I don’t mind adjusting the frame rail a smidge for clearance
 
It was hitting the frame. I’m pretty sure you need to use the cats from the engine you purchased. They are sticklers for everything and anything to do with cats.
I purchased everything from a yard up in sac. Engine, harness, ecm, air box, cats, pedal, pedal module.
My buddy was able to fit the cats inside the frame rails but it is tight, and there was no way to keep the front sway bar on with the original cats. Didn’t really bother me as I knew I would eventually redo the exhaust after inspection.

Genius idea with the heat shield. Well done. Looks OEM
 
Are you and your buddy still in the Bay Area? I’m in Sac and would love to see them in person for reference. I don’t mind adjusting the frame rail a smidge for clearance
I’m in Pacifica for about another month. Feel free to message me and if you wanna cruise out and take it for a rip she’s all yours.
 
Gauging interest. Would anyone be interested in plug/play harnesses to have working Park/Neutral safety function as well as reverse lights and complete dash gear indicators for swaps with 4l60e or 4l80e? Harnesses would be about $350.

Should finally be bringing these to market next month. :cool:
 
Can a 6l80 output shaft work in a 6l90? I’ve had two transmission shops say it can be done and two say it can’t.

If it can, is it worth the trouble over using a 6l80?

Apologize if it’s in here somewhere. Appreciate all the info in throughout. Been through it casually twice, knuckling down again.
 
Can a 6l80 output shaft work in a 6l90? I’ve had two transmission shops say it can be done and two say it can’t.

If it can, is it worth the trouble over using a 6l80?

Apologize if it’s in here somewhere. Appreciate all the info in throughout. Been through it casually twice, knuckling down again.

Great question and I am looking into this as well. The 2012-2015 ZL1 Camaro might have come with a 6L90E (MYD) with a 32 Spline Output shaft.

The specific RPO code of that transmission could be 2DFA, 2DSA, or 4DSA

The 32 spline output shaft part number might be 24264190.

This page does show the part number might fit both the 6L80 (MYC) and the 6L90 (MYD).

If would be great if anyone who swapped in a 6L90e /w 32 spline output could confirm the RPO code on the transmission.
 
Great question and I am looking into this as well. The 2012-2015 ZL1 Camaro might have come with a 6L90E (MYD) with a 32 Spline Output shaft.

The specific RPO code of that transmission could be 2DFA, 2DSA, or 4DSA

The 32 spline output shaft part number might be 24264190.

This page does show the part number might fit both the 6L80 (MYC) and the 6L90 (MYD).

If would be great if anyone who swapped in a 6L90e /w 32 spline output could confirm the RPO code on the transmission.
Good info. I feel like the extra bits in the 6l90 COULD make it a worthwhile endeavor. But who knows!
 
I got a reply on facebook's LS Swap group saying that the 6L90e output shaft is not interchangeable with the 6L80e due to larger planetary gear set of the former that the output shaft interfaces with. Recommendation was to send the 36 Spline output shaft to Moser to get resplined, which is fairly cheap (<$100?).

Part number 24264190, from the ZL1 Camero, could be the OEM 32 spline output shaft for the 6L90e. The only way to confirm is to find someone with a Camaro ZL1 with that transmission.
 
This thread is for V8 swaps to 80 Series Toyota Land Cruisers.

Your truck frame must start with the following: FJ80-0xxxxxx or FZJ80-0xxxxxx. Of course, it can also start with an HDJ/HZJ iteration. Only the Aussies yank out perfectly good Toyota diesel engines to swap V8 power into them... Oh and our friends in the ME as well. :)

Your frame number will always be on the RH side of your truck, on the frame, right near your front RH shock.

Please post direct links to your build thread, post pertinent technical information, and discuss TECHNICAL aspects of V8 swaps into the 8x platform.

No diesel V8's; only small block or big block petrol V8's.

And, yes, Toyota Industries and Bodine Alumimum 4.7L and 5.7L engines are included. One cannot discount how perfect Toyota V8's are in the 8x Series Chassis. Of course, this option requires the serious expertise.


Please keep all discussions pertinent to only technical aspects of petrol V8 swaps--the real "doing" of a swap; no selling of swaps, no vendor sales, no discussions of merit vs a Toyota power plant.

Just: "I did a LT-1 swap and this is how I did it, these are the parts I used, these are the resources I relied upon (pertinent informational resources), this is how much it cost, this is what I would do differently next time, these are the people that did my swap, this is something new I discovered about X."

Keep it empirically-based and keep it authentic.

Drive fast and take chances.
OK, So I did a ls swap ( 93 fj 80) love it but in the process had the ecu wiring ripped out for my lockers. The wiring from the engine compartment to the passenger firewall gone. a couple of cut lines in a frenzied ( were putting a whole new monster in here and wont be needing this anymore ) episode. I know chastise me later. My question is, without the plugs on the passenger firewall,
which wires do I need to make the centerdiff lock and unlock? I put the 7 pinmod in place, my relays are still there, I just cant decipher what I would need to fire it up. The other lockers I can wait on, but in the snow it had a hard time (30"s of)
should I start from scratch? Is it possible to wire in the center diff as a standlone unit?
My front and rear acuators are fried. So I would be happy with the center but after hours of wiring diagrams and toning guessing etc, havent found a soloution yet.
Any input would be huge.
Thanks again
on a budget 😁
 
OK, So I did a ls swap ( 93 fj 80) love it but in the process had the ecu wiring ripped out for my lockers. The wiring from the engine compartment to the passenger firewall gone. a couple of cut lines in a frenzied ( were putting a whole new monster in here and wont be needing this anymore ) episode. I know chastise me later. My question is, without the plugs on the passenger firewall,
which wires do I need to make the centerdiff lock and unlock? I put the 7 pinmod in place, my relays are still there, I just cant decipher what I would need to fire it up. The other lockers I can wait on, but in the snow it had a hard time (30"s of)
should I start from scratch? Is it possible to wire in the center diff as a standlone unit?
My front and rear acuators are fried. So I would be happy with the center but after hours of wiring diagrams and toning guessing etc, havent found a soloution yet.
Any input would be huge.
Thanks again
on a budget 😁
If your actuators are truly fried I would look into converting them to air actuated or even cable actuated. There a threads on how to do this.

Do you have the EWD for your year 80? The wiring to the center diff seems to be often eliminated by folks doing swaps. It’s simple to add back.
 
OK, So I did a ls swap ( 93 fj 80) ...
My front and rear acuators are fried. So I would be happy with the center but after hours of wiring diagrams and toning guessing etc, havent found a soloution yet.
Any input would be huge.
Thanks again
on a budget 😁
If memory serves me correctly, the CDL wiring comes through the IH1 or IH2 connector (at least on my 1991 80). These connectors are located behind the glove box, high up on the firewall. If you have an EWD for your 93, it should be easy to figure out which wires they are by color and pin position.

On the axle actuators, Low Range Off Road sells a stand alone kit to let you wire them direct (if you decide to rebuild the actuators).
 
If your actuators are truly fried I would look into converting them to air actuated or even cable actuated. There a threads on how to do this.

Do you have the EWD for your year 80? The wiring to the center diff seems to be often eliminated by folks doing swaps. It’s simple to add back.
Hey thanks,
the front actuator is most def fried. I opened it up looked like burnt soup had been there to long. Yes I do have the EWD but the harness that should come in from the firewall by the glovebox was taken out o_O SO Im trying to figure out which ones on the inside running from the drivers side over would power up my center diif( some connectors were cut out in the melee) But it has been fun!
 
If memory serves me correctly, the CDL wiring comes through the IH1 or IH2 connector (at least on my 1991 80). These connectors are located behind the glove box, high up on the firewall. If you have an EWD for your 93, it should be easy to figure out which wires they are by color and pin position.

On the axle actuators, Low Range Off Road sells a stand alone kit to let you wire them direct (if you decide to rebuild the actuators).
Hey thank you . The harness and some plugs were cut out behind the glove box and the harness that ran in from the firewall was removed to make room for the ecu in the glovebox. Didn't want it to get to hot or wet in the engine compartment. I had it tuned and the folks who did put the fear of what if into me :skull::doh:
Anyway so Im trying to decipher the color coming over to power up the center diff lock . More examination is needed.
Ah getting caught up in the moment.... but it is awesome
 
Great question and I am looking into this as well. The 2012-2015 ZL1 Camaro might have come with a 6L90E (MYD) with a 32 Spline Output shaft.

The specific RPO code of that transmission could be 2DFA, 2DSA, or 4DSA

The 32 spline output shaft part number might be 24264190.

This page does show the part number might fit both the 6L80 (MYC) and the 6L90 (MYD).

If would be great if anyone who swapped in a 6L90e /w 32 spline output could confirm the RPO code on the transmission.
Saw this. Might be worth contacting them. Is Aus, the 6l80 and 6l90 both work with Marks adapter, so this could be what we’d need.

 
Saw this. Might be worth contacting them. Is Aus, the 6l80 and 6l90 both work with Marks adapter, so this could be what we’d need.


I have seen that part before and can be bought directly from Buffalo Engine Components for less: 45678DD - 6L90 USED 4X4 OUTPUT SHAFT - Product Details - https://www.buffaloengine.com/catalog/p-110387/45678dd-6l90-used-4x4-output-shaft.

I will probably be going with a L83/6L80e to save a bit of weight over L96/6L90e.
 
My air compressor location is going to make air filter location interesting.
4A41F8B4-0FA7-4B28-9B6E-E794A4328D2A.jpeg
 
Seem to remember there's a front drive setup that'll let you run the compressor down in that big gap next to the balancer. Would give you a lot more room up top.
 
This might be what I have to switch to. The High Mount kit came with my motor and the SD7 compressor. I’ll have to look at it more closely. I forgot how much smaller that SD7 is. The oem compressor was going to have issues.

A5B6124C-F355-4889-BDF7-07C0552A29CA.png
 
My air compressor location is going to make air filter location interesting.
View attachment 2920558
Cool. I have a York that I’ve almost mounted there a few times. I have plans for a different kind of compressor to sit about right there in near future though. :grinpimp:

What bracket is that you are using? There’s other options that don’t have it that far out.
 

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