Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (6 Viewers)

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Has anyone used the Holley mid mount accessory drive kit?
Holley 20-185 Holley Mid-Mount Complete Accessory System

It looks like you it would let you use the Marks Adaptors mounts (4L60E applications) more easily.

For LHD applications it would give you steering box clearance and for RHD applications you wouldn’t have to do the cut and weld of the chassis bracket to get AC compressor clearance.

Here in NZ this would really help the certification process we have to go through.
77D4763D-D939-46E6-8C39-3D6C138C0322.jpeg
 
Has anyone used the Holley mid mount accessory drive kit?
Holley 20-185 Holley Mid-Mount Complete Accessory System

It looks like you it would let you use the Marks Adaptors mounts (4L60E applications) more easily.

For LHD applications it would give you steering box clearance and for RHD applications you wouldn’t have to do the cut and weld of the chassis bracket to get AC compressor clearance.

Here in NZ this would really help the certification process we have to go through.
View attachment 1993264

I’m using that one. Not using the Mark’s mounts, so I can’t speak to how it works with those. I pushed the motor as far to the drivers side as I could, and moved it forward a little for firewall clearance, and the only thing I had to watch for was the return nipple on the PS reservoir & steering box. You can always do a remote reservoir if you do have clearance issues.

Since it packages everything in front of the motor, it does take up more room between the radiator, but there was still enough room to get fans/intake/hoses in.

D41C3BA4-9ABA-4655-8A4A-FDB7F06A06BD.jpeg


Not quite done yet, but close:

FA218A02-EE69-4887-9A4D-9E359B25AD1E.jpeg


I like it. Seems well made, and gives you options for the steam port (can plumb it into the waterpump housing, and have extra temp sender locations if you are doing a standalone fan controller.
 
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I’m using that one. Not using the Mark’s mounts, so I can’t speak to how it works with those. I pushed the motor as far to the drivers side as I could, and moved it forward a little for firewall clearance, and the only thing I had to watch for was the return nipple on the PS reservoir & steering box. You can always do a remote reservoir if you do have clearance issues.

Since it packages everything in front of the motor, it does take up more room between the radiator, but there was still enough room to get fans/intake/hoses in.

View attachment 1993298

Not quite done yet, but close:

View attachment 1993299

I like it. Seems well made, and gives you options for the steam port (can plumb it into the waterpump housing, and having extra temp sender locations if you are doing a standalone fan controller.


Beautiful. For the swap I’m considering (LS1 + 4L60e using marks adapter and mounts
In an RHD) would make it completely bolt in.

That’s a big deal here in NZ - engine swaps have to be certified, meaning approved by an engineer. They (quite rightly) are pretty strict on welding requirements, especially when mods to the frame are concerned.

I like the extra functionality with steam ports and other temp senders too, thanks for pointing that out too.
 
Do NOT plumb the steam port into the water pump. The whole idea of the steam port is to remove air (steam) from the system and dump it in the upper tank of the radiator or to a surge tank. By plumbing the steam port to the water pump the air is re introduced to the cooling system. Air in the cooling system denigrates efficiency at an alarming rate.

Edit:
I took a look at where Holley is dumping the steam port and that makes sense as it is at the top of the water pump, taking the steam into the top tank. All I have seen in the past were dumped lower in the water pump on the side putting the steam back through the system.
 
Do NOT plumb the steam port into the water pump. The whole idea of the steam port is to remove air (steam) from the system and dump it in the upper tank of the radiator or to a surge tank. By plumbing the steam port to the water pump the air is re introduced to the cooling system. Air in the cooling system denigrates efficiency at an alarming rate.

Edit:
I took a look at where Holley is dumping the steam port and that makes sense as it is at the top of the water pump, taking the steam into the top tank. All I have seen in the past were dumped lower in the water pump on the side putting the steam back through the system.

Pic for reference. It plumbs it directly into the outlet, so any trapped air can take a direct escape to the top of the radiator. Essentially doing the same as a dedicated line.

I’m using the stock radiator, which has a nipple in the top tank, so I took advantage of that.

77DB9C75-FA31-4948-BCDD-62B742D97400.png
 
Pretty sweet, but a mechanical fan is a no go with that water pump for those who don't want e-fans.

Very true, but the only waterpump w/mechanical fan that works with the LS3 intake is the $900 unit from Marks. Expensive, should it need replacing. This kit has a replaceable cartridge. The pump housing is the bracket for the accessories.

And looks like no big alternator?

It comes with a 150 amp alternator. Plenty of juice for most folks.
 
Very true, but the only waterpump w/mechanical fan that works with the LS3 intake is the $900 unit from Marks. Expensive, should it need replacing. This kit has a replaceable cartridge. The pump housing is the bracket for the accessories.



It comes with a 150 amp alternator. Plenty of juice for most folks.
I can't tell from the pic, and you've probably already tried, but I wonder if a truck water pump would fit if the throttle body were flipped? Intake just sit too low?
 
I can't tell from the pic, and you've probably already tried, but I wonder if a truck water pump would fit if the throttle body were flipped? Intake just sit too low?

Maybe? I invested way too much time researching the mechanical fan route and decided not to fight it.

I actually like electric fans now, having had firsthand experience with them :grinpimp:
 
Maybe? I invested way too much time researching the mechanical fan route and decided not to fight it.

I actually like electric fans now, having had firsthand experience with them :grinpimp:
I don't blame you. I was hell bent on keeping factory airbox, mech fan, and using truck intake manifold. All of which added unnecessary complexities to the job. It worked out fine, but dang, e fans would have been very easy. I'd probably go that route if I had to do it again.
 
Time will tell how well these work. But they aren’t loud, and don’t run as much as I’d expect. I opted not to control them from the GM computer.

They have a variable speed controller based on temp and a separate AC switch, so the AC should work great at idle.

8A30A9FE-DF13-4788-A1C4-C1959C73BA9B.jpeg
 
Time will tell how well these work. But they aren’t loud, and don’t run as much as I’d expect. I opted not to control them from the GM computer.

They have a variable speed controller based on temp and a separate AC switch, so the AC should work great at idle.

View attachment 1993481

Make/model? Is that on the stock FZJ80 radiator?
 
Make/model? Is that on the stock FZJ80 radiator?

It is the biggest Flexalite unit on the stock radiator. It is almost the exact size as the core. You have to do some trimming for the bottom outlet, and gently bend the driver side trans cooler pipe.

It had the largest fans I could find in a dual fan setup and one of the highest CFM ratings. The plastic housing looked more stock to me than an aluminum model.
 
I’m using that one. Not using the Mark’s mounts, so I can’t speak to how it works with those. I pushed the motor as far to the drivers side as I could, and moved it forward a little for firewall clearance, and the only thing I had to watch for was the return nipple on the PS reservoir & steering box. You can always do a remote reservoir if you do have clearance issues.

Since it packages everything in front of the motor, it does take up more room between the radiator, but there was still enough room to get fans/intake/hoses in.

View attachment 1993298

Not quite done yet, but close:

View attachment 1993299

I like it. Seems well made, and gives you options for the steam port (can plumb it into the waterpump housing, and have extra temp sender locations if you are doing a standalone fan controller.


Did you consider an ac drop. I was going to cut the frame but this works great.

 
all you need to swap transmission oil pan and engine oil pan and there is no problems with clearance
oil pan from camaro i believe 1998-2000 and older transmission oil pan is one quart of oil smaler and no problems with drive shaft clearance or front differential clearance


Front diff will still tag the engine oil pan depending on your springs. Im putting in stops.
 

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