Registry 8x Series V8 Swaps (29 Viewers)

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bloc,

I saw in your previous post you discussed the plumbing for the Air Con, but I couldn't find a post on the wiring. Does your BCM run the A/C or does it run the the ECM?

Thanks

No, I'm running the LX AC controls and just replaced the compressor with the appropriate GM unit. The only real problem with this is the ECM not expecting the clutch to kick in at idle and it lugging a bit. I may raise idle slightly to compensate.

I don't really know enough about GMLAN control of the AC to say how difficult it would be. From @Squad1 work it seems installing a pressure switch to get the ECM to control electric fans for air movement over the cores is relatively simple.. but I'm not sure how you'd initiate an idle-up warning to the ECM once the compressor is going to start.
 
You are right... forgot about Gen III vs. Gen IV.

Here is the thread with the Picaxe (and his code) - still a Gen III, but might give you a starting point.

Thanks

I'll take a look when I have some time.
 
No, I'm running the LX AC controls and just replaced the compressor with the appropriate GM unit. The only real problem with this is the ECM not expecting the clutch to kick in at idle and it lugging a bit. I may raise idle slightly to compensate.

I don't really know enough about GMLAN control of the AC to say how difficult it would be. From @Squad1 work it seems installing a pressure switch to get the ECM to control electric fans for air movement over the cores is relatively simple.. but I'm not sure how you'd initiate an idle-up warning to the ECM once the compressor is going to start.
I will ask the place I purchased my harness from today when I talk to him. I did add a gm pressure transducer from 2002 Camaro ( i think that was the one) to match the provided plug on the harness. What the harness builder/ programmer told me is that the ecm will read and use the a/c pressure reading to adjust the idle speed and turn on cooling fans. My ecm had that function turned off so no display of pressure, I am working on that. The switch was threaded onto a port on the high pressure fitting coming off the compressor. The fitting I used came from coldhose.com and had both a high side R-134 port and a 10mm service port. This is the part # I used from coldhose
Part #3-9711
 
Thanks! And I'm very interested in what you work out with the arduino. My plan had been to just use tap shifting in low range but the potential of hacking CAN has piqued my interest for sure. As it is I think an arduino or raspberry pi or some other chip could do a few useful things.. I just don't know anything about setting that stuff up or programming it. For instance..

An initial test of the cruise yesterday didn't go well. Right now I have half of the BCM ignition switch logic disabled and it looks like that is going to be important to get the bcm into the proper power modes. One small issue is our Key-in signal provides ground, the BCM looks for +12v. THere is also some stuff going on with a circuit seeing 12v in run, but stepped down with a resistor in start. I think this may be important for the BCM to find all of its power modes. I'd imagine a chip could do this easily.. might send you a PM with some questions.

I'm also stalled trying to find the resistance values for the GM Truck/SUV tap-shift switches. They aren't in any of the truck/SUV wiring diagrams I'm finding. Corvette values are listed but the logic is very different (one wire direct to the transmission vs two to the BCM) or I'd just try those values.

I have a friend with a HD pickup and might go over there sunday to pull his BCM and measure the values if I can't find them online in the next day. Beyond that I'd have to pay $85 to get a shift lever that I wouldn't use other than to measure the circuits.
I too have been searching for those resistor values, standby....we see dozens of silverados ea month here at work, I'll test one.
 
I too have been searching for those resistor values, standby....we see dozens of silverados ea month here at work, I'll test one.

I actually found them in the GM upfitter EWD. A good resource if you haven't found it yet. Just use google.

I'm on my phone so a photo of the PDF is the best I can do..

IMG_2712.JPG


Tap shifting is working well, same for smart charging. There is an odd glitch with cruise where the "retained accessory power" is keeping cruise from working if the ignition wasn't off for at least ten minutes. I can defeat this by wiring up a door signal to the BCM but I'll just plan around it while on this trip.

The bigger issue is my 4K mile old OEM water pump seeping a tiny bit on cold mornings.. but not after the truck warms up fortunately. Currently collecting the tools and parts to change it somewhere in Montana. As to why it failed? I figured maybe the escalade part didn't like the fan being mounted on the nose but it turns out it's the same part in HD trucks with the mechanical fan. So.. hopefully second try is the charm. I'll also probably have to pay full retail to get it quickly. Yay.
 
Thanks for that. I have everything ready to go, just waiting for cooler weather to start. That was a little motivation!
 
The EROD LS3 6.2 is not the best motor choice for the 80 series in my opinion and I have one. Don't get me wrong I love it and it puts a smile on your face everytime you drive it. There are several reasons why I would go with some of the other options out there. I think I posted on this subject somewhere in this thread.
I am thinking of swapping to LS3 on my 94 but I am curious to learn if there are better options out there as you mentioned. Pls advise
 
I am thinking of swapping to LS3 on my 94 but I am curious to learn if there are better options out there as you mentioned. Pls advise
Ali M
I believe there are many better options out there if you want a little less power and better mpg and if you want to save a lot of money on the swap. I don't regret my decision but I would look closely at a 5.3 or 6.0 or a 6.2 from a truck or escalade that would include the transmission and ecu etc. This would save some time and money. The erod with a 6L80E sure is nice and runs great but it typically costs a bit more and you give up around 3 to 4 mpg. If money is no factor and you don't care about the mpg go with the erod 6.2 / 6L80 combo you won't regret it. I believe in CA there are a few out there (TLC) that have already received the emissions waiver / sticker.

 
Ali M
I believe there are many better options out there if you want a little less power and better mpg and if you want to save a lot of money on the swap. I don't regret my decision but I would look closely at a 5.3 or 6.0 or a 6.2 from a truck or escalade that would include the transmission and ecu etc. This would save some time and money. The erod with a 6L80E sure is nice and runs great but it typically costs a bit more and you give up around 3 to 4 mpg. If money is no factor and you don't care about the mpg go with the erod 6.2 / 6L80 combo you won't regret it. I believe in CA there are a few out there (TLC) that have already received the emissions waiver / sticker.


Thanks. That's not a bad combination. I believe that configuration came with high-end escalade models too with 430HP. I also heard people praising the 5.3 for its gas mileage too. choices, choices. How's yours performing so far? did you also have to upgrade the brakes?
 
Thanks. That's not a bad combination. I believe that configuration came with high-end escalade models too with 430HP. I also heard people praising the 5.3 for its gas mileage too. choices, choices. How's yours performing so far? did you also have to upgrade the brakes?
Ali M,
My motor and trans have over 4,000 miles logged and they both have performed flawlessly. My cruiser drives like a brand new factory cruiser would if it came with an LS3. I am very happy with my swap. As for the brakes I swapped out the rotors for the DBA set up with 100 pads up front and Hawk pads in the rear. It is an improvement over stock but the 80 series is still in need of bigger brakes for sure.
 
Ali M,
My motor and trans have over 4,000 miles logged and they both have performed flawlessly. My cruiser drives like a brand new factory cruiser would if it came with an LS3. I am very happy with my swap. As for the brakes I swapped out the rotors for the DBA set up with 100 pads up front and Hawk pads in the rear. It is an improvement over stock but the 80 series is still in need of bigger brakes for sure.
Great. Was your v8+trans used and with how many miles on it? Also is there a limitation on installing after market larger rotors on these rigs to improve braking?
 
His setup was a brand new "e-rod" LS3 package plus new 6L80.

Starting in 2007 the Escalade went to a 6.2L engine making 403hp.. mechanically it is most of a LS3 (same aluminum block and high-flow heads, less compression, less high-strung cam, MUCH larger intake manifold and arguably better truck accessory package). that is what I have in mine. 2007-2008 was called the L92, had Variable Valve Timing but no Displacement on Demand.. in 2009 they added flex fuel capability (L9H) then in 2010 added DoD (L94). All were mated to the 6L80 which is a GREAT option for these swaps. My swap with aluminum engine and 6L80 transmission (as big or bigger than my stock big-boy A442F) saved 100# over stock engine/trans.

My engine/transmission/ECM/harness/extras cost 5k from a junk yard with 120k. The engine probably didn't see the easiest/best life but it is running fine. Transmission did need rebuilding though.. I did that at home.

If you run bigger wheels putting larger brakes on a cruiser is pretty much the same as any other vehicle, with the one caveat being the rotors mount from the back of the hub face, not the front like most. This just means you have a shallower and smaller diameter "hat" and that means you are less likely to find an off-the-shelf rotor option that will work. I don't recall anyone offering a bolt-on big brake kit for our rigs, but I haven't been paying much attention. That said.. with 315s AND the ABS and LSPV deleted I feel my brakes work great, even with "just" OEM 80-series rotors/pads. It's not a sports car and I don't expect it to behave like one. But if I need to make an emergency stop it does well enough for me.
 
His setup was a brand new "e-rod" LS3 package plus new 6L80.

Starting in 2007 the Escalade went to a 6.2L engine making 403hp.. mechanically it is most of a LS3 (same aluminum block and high-flow heads, less compression, less high-strung cam, MUCH larger intake manifold and arguably better truck accessory package). that is what I have in mine. 2007-2008 was called the L92, had Variable Valve Timing but no Displacement on Demand.. in 2009 they added flex fuel capability (L9H) then in 2010 added DoD (L94). All were mated to the 6L80 which is a GREAT option for these swaps. My swap with aluminum engine and 6L80 transmission (as big or bigger than my stock big-boy A442F) saved 100# over stock engine/trans.

My engine/transmission/ECM/harness/extras cost 5k from a junk yard with 120k. The engine probably didn't see the easiest/best life but it is running fine. Transmission did need rebuilding though.. I did that at home.

If you run bigger wheels putting larger brakes on a cruiser is pretty much the same as any other vehicle, with the one caveat being the rotors mount from the back of the hub face, not the front like most. This just means you have a shallower and smaller diameter "hat" and that means you are less likely to find an off-the-shelf rotor option that will work. I don't recall anyone offering a bolt-on big brake kit for our rigs, but I haven't been paying much attention. That said.. with 315s AND the ABS and LSPV deleted I feel my brakes work great, even with "just" OEM 80-series rotors/pads. It's not a sports car and I don't expect it to behave like one. But if I need to make an emergency stop it does well enough for me.
great insight man. Did you have to make any special mods or changes to the suspension, and spring to support the added power?
 
great insight man. Did you have to make any special mods or changes to the suspension, and spring to support the added power?

No. As it is the double batteries/winch/front bumper were making the front of my rig sag a bit despite the 2" lift. The lighter engine helped bring the nose back up. Other than that, regular 2" lift.

I am a little concerned the drivetrain can't handle all of that torque when bound up.. so I'll attempt to be careful with the skinny pedal when off-roading.

Again.. it's not a sports car. While it is capable of getting to speed MUCH more quickly it hasn't really changed how I drive, so a special suspension isn't really necessary in my case.
 
Bloc pretty much covered everything and he has as much knowledgeable as anyone on this forum when it comes to these swaps since he actually put the hours and hard work to make his happen. As for the bigger and better brake system I am waiting for these.

New Keyed Steering Knuckles!!!
No. As it is the double batteries/winch/front bumper were making the front of my rig sag a bit despite the 2" lift. The lighter engine helped bring the nose back up. Other than that, regular 2" lift.

I am a little concerned the drivetrain can't handle all of that torque when bound up.. so I'll attempt to be careful with the skinny pedal when off-roading.

Again.. it's not a sports car. While it is capable of getting to speed MUCH more quickly it hasn't really changed how I drive, so a special suspension isn't really necessary in my case.
i get that it's not going to be a sports car but what about steering, on my 94 and other later models fj80s I drove there is always play and not as responsive as the 100.
 
You're comparing apples to oranges.

A v8 in an 80 doesn't really change anything for most drivers other than potentially lightening the front end a bit
 

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