New Keyed Steering Knuckles!!! (1 Viewer)

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Anyone else excited about this as I am???? Finally a viable solution to our steering woes!!!! Ill be calling them on monday for a bit more information hopefully some more pictures

-trunion bearing upgrades to 25mm!!!!
-keyed steering arms!!! finally taking the weight off the studs and onto the knuckle!!!
-and bigger brakes!!!!!!!

FJ80 Keyed Hi Steer Kit (Pre-order)

Front Range Offroad offers a must have kit for any FJ80 steering housing. Finally giving you a Hi-Steer option with a brake upgrade! Front Range Offroad has also machined in keyed steering, a stronger steering option that puts very little force on the knuckle studs and instead puts the majority of the turning force on the knuckle itself.
These knuckles are FULLY MACHINED for a stronger knuckle.

Each set gives you an option to run BIGGER brakes without any conversion ring its all built into the knuckle! Run Tundra brakes, CURRENT model 4runner and Tacoma brakes on your FJ80 Axle!

This Kit includes

  • Pair of Machined Front Range Offroad Knuckles (left and right)
  • A pair of KEYED steering arms
  • 17mm pins

    WE ALSO OFFER OVERSIZED BEARINGS, 25mm pins with Koyo bearings!


 
Yea I'm down been waiting for the hellfire knuckles since last fall from ruff stuff wonder if are pan hard clears and you still run 80ends or bump up to gm one ton
 
Yea I'm down been waiting for the hellfire knuckles since last fall from ruff stuff wonder if are pan hard clears and you still run 80ends or bump up to gm one ton

what Im calling about hahahaha, I just want to know the minor details...... I am doing a lot right now to the rig, but if I can i'd like to ditch my factory steering setup with the new LS
 
Man..this seems like a game changer to me, but my layperson engineering can't visualize. What does "keyed" steering arms mean and how does it help? Does this mean we can really just pop on a set of Tundra brakes AND calipers?
 
"keyed" steering meaning a your going to high steer, 2 it take all pressure off the studs and moves it to the knuckle itself

image_1431364067569_698__22605.1431737650.1280.1280.jpg


and yup to the brakes, new tundra brakes or GX470s with the WH calipers run a 13.3" rotor up front :D
 
"keyed" steering meaning a your going to high steer, 2 it take all pressure off the studs and moves it to the knuckle itself

image_1431364067569_698__22605.1431737650.1280.1280.jpg


and yup to the brakes, new tundra brakes or GX470s with the WH calipers run a 13.3" rotor up front :D

WOW...Sign me UP!! Mud should be broken right now...:hmm:
 
"keyed" steering meaning a your going to high steer, 2 it take all pressure off the studs and moves it to the knuckle itself

image_1431364067569_698__22605.1431737650.1280.1280.jpg


and yup to the brakes, new tundra brakes or GX470s with the WH calipers run a 13.3" rotor up front :D

Won't that require 17" wheels?
 
BTW I'm holding off on completely redoing my axles while I gather all the pieces and I may go this route if I'm spending the money anyway.

Heck yeah...I don't give an ish if I have to sell my wheels/tires and get a set of 17s if it means brakes that actually work...plus upgraded trunions/studs/knucles! Might have to hold off on my labs bumper...GAME CHANGER here!
 
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what Im calling about hahahaha, I just want to know the minor details...... I am doing a lot right now to the rig, but if I can i'd like to ditch my factory steering setup with the new LS


I'm curious what the answer is. Let us know when you find out.
 
Won't that require 17" wheels?

I already run trail ready 17 true beadlocks lol


Tires are easier to get in 17 than 16s here....
 
Man, these will be so sweet if they can deliver a working product to everyone that wants them. Having quality, cast parts made can be a tall order to fill for a small shop.
 
If these will work with our pan hard, I'm ordering asap, would prefer to use our 80 ends and not have to set up tierods again with heim joints. Also hopefully the drag link can go to one hole on the arm with the tierod going to the front hole on the arm
 
If these will work with our pan hard, I'm ordering asap, would prefer to use our 80 ends and not have to set up tierods again with heim joints. Also hopefully the drag link can go to one hole on the arm with the tierod going to the front hole on the arm
If you increase the height of the drag link knuckle mount then you will have to increase the height of the panhard mount on the axle if you want to avoid bump steer.
 
Keyed arm is only relevant as a failsafe - proper clamp load with conical fasteners (tapered nuts or cone washers) will have enough friction to pretty much never load the studs in shear
 
Keyed arm is only relevant as a failsafe - proper clamp load with conical fasteners (tapered nuts or cone washers) will have enough friction to pretty much never load the studs in shear

Exactly my thoughts. Those rigs that have had proper torque applied/checked often don't seem to have stud failures nearly as often as those who have not.
 
Exactly my thoughts. Those rigs that have had proper torque applied/checked often don't seem to have stud failures nearly as often as those who have not.
A bit silly that these things need constant monitoring of the torque of these studs though, seems this option would negate that need by putting the stress on the knuckle instead of the studs?
 

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