8x Series V8 Swaps (26 Viewers)

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Top hose fits pretty dang good for off the shelf.
-Stock 1fz rad, homemade shroud
-2001 Silverado hose
-2007 water pump (water neck is dif)

View attachment 1609807
If you ever get wot stumbling when engine is hot, sometimes the cobra elbows can collapse if they get hot enough. On an ls, this is highly unlikely unless there is something very hot nearby, but just keep it in mind. Buddy of mine nearly lost his mind figuring this out.
 
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I ran one of those for a year or so...
They do sell the low profile 90º elbow if you having fitment issues...
 
Has anyone used one of these with a 4L80 to get their indicator lights on the dash to work? Dakota Digital Universal Gear Shift Sending Units GSS-2000

I can't find any install pics of one mounted to a 4l80E
Personally I don't know why it wouldn't work. In addition, you may be able to use the old factory one from the original toyota transmission to do similarly if you fabbed a bracket off of the trans pan and some simple linkage.
 
I'm just thinking ahead in case I get roped into a governement vehicle inspection. They'll want to see that kind of junk working.

My stock tranny is long gone along with the engine.
 
Need some help from those of you who have used the Dakota Digital sgi-8e for tachometer correction. I tried to get mine working this evening and couldn’t get any tach movement. (Running or in test mode) Box turns on fine and idicates it’s getting signal from the ECM. Maybe I’m hooking to the wrong wire behind the glove box?

Referencing @rockrod pinout sheet for 94s I assume this is the correct wire:
A6E72ECB-5F2B-4C9A-B379-39A1327F681E.jpeg

My truck is a 94 also, but referencing my EWD says the wire from the tach is black from the cluster to the igniter so I’m kinda lost. I’ve also tried using the “high volt” option as the instructions say it’s necessary with early Toyota clusters. I referenced @MarkN build thread and he had a pic of his mounted and he didn’t have hooked tothe “high volt” port, so I’m not sure it necessary on 80s.

Anyway, she runs on down the road good, and temp sits right at 187-190, just need to figure out the exhaust. Just had manifolds with 4’ of side exit pipes to test everything.:hillbilly:
127D7EA7-34F9-4B05-8E9F-13D6B6839F73.png



Thanks
 
Need some help from those of you who have used the Dakota Digital sgi-8e for tachometer correction. I tried to get mine working this evening and couldn’t get any tach movement. (Running or in test mode) Box turns on fine and idicates it’s getting signal from the ECM. Maybe I’m hooking to the wrong wire behind the glove box?

Referencing @rockrod pinout sheet for 94s I assume this is the correct wire:
View attachment 1618399
My truck is a 94 also, but referencing my EWD says the wire from the tach is black from the cluster to the igniter so I’m kinda lost. I’ve also tried using the “high volt” option as the instructions say it’s necessary with early Toyota clusters. I referenced @MarkN build thread and he had a pic of his mounted and he didn’t have hooked tothe “high volt” port, so I’m not sure it necessary on 80s.

Anyway, she runs on down the road good, and temp sits right at 187-190, just need to figure out the exhaust. Just had manifolds with 4’ of side exit pipes to test everything.:hillbilly:
View attachment 1618422


Thanks

For whatever reason, I never could get that adapter to work. I ended up returning it and getting the OBD version.
 
I use these valves with the vac control removed, real simple valve. LSX motors run cooler with this valve or similar installed.

Murray #74781

s-l300.jpg


The lever that is left when the vac is removed is on the bottom of the valve when installed, held in place with a zip tie. Twice a year you cut the zip tie, move the lever, put on another zip tie.
If you like you can complicate it with a switch and a vacuum valve.

19657013_1576877059009846_8885496647143005937_n.jpg
 
I use these valves with the vac control removed, real simple valve. LSX motors run cooler with this valve or similar installed.

Murray #74781

s-l300.jpg


The lever that is left when the vac is removed is on the bottom of the valve when installed, held in place with a zip tie. Twice a year you cut the zip tie, move the lever, put on another zip tie.
If you like you can complicate it with a switch and a vacuum valve.

19657013_1576877059009846_8885496647143005937_n.jpg

this is what i did i can bleed air and circulate antifreeze at same time plus it adds bit more of coolant to




 
So what was the solution?
Sorry, meant to come back and add what I did.

Short answer: I hooked to the much more logical wire highlighted below.

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Unfortunately, I had deleted the partof the wire that lead to the Diagnosis port (per that sheet,) but I simply re-pinned a wire into the connector and all was good.

Once I found what to hook into, the Dakota Digital tach converter is a breeze to setup.

-Power and ground
- signal in from GM ECM (white wire)
- signal out from black wire from ignitor. Needs to be hooked into "Hi Volt"
-set input to 4cyl and output to 6cyl

I needed no fine tuning. Tach was essentially dead on out of the box with those settings.
 
Made an easily accessible, but completely out of the way mounting plate for tach and speedo correction devices by mimicking the way the (deleted) factory amplifier was mounted.
Simply pull speaker out if you need to adjust for some reason.

98F5D4EB-931F-49CC-B4AA-C7899D8A9AD7.jpeg
 
just watch for the speaker the magnetic field may interfere with the converter

and according alldata diagram TACHO wire does not go thru IH1 plug
It doesn't, but it does. It is not part of the engine harness and comes into the cab on the drivers side. From the drivers kick panel area it travels up into the dash and there is a splice. from there a wire goes to the tach, the other across the dash, through the connector pictured above on pin 4, and to the "DIAGNOSIS" port/datalink under the hood on the firewall. I tied into the tach circuit there and it works perfectly.

I completely removed the datalink port as it is useless to me at this point.
 

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