Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (13 Viewers)

[Delancy]

3k at highway speed is way too high. 2200-2500.

The 3k was a generalized statement concerning the 1FZ in this, and other applications, I believe, not a highway RPM.

Was stated by Robbie, to be 2600 with the speedo reading 75mph. Speedo is off by 5mph, I believe, so realistically 70mph. The 345s are an oversized 35, so it should be near perfect if/when true 37s are ran, but feels good with now.

You don't have to change coils. Just run some coil spacers. Cheap easy and effective

That's with all the weight it'll ever be loaded with, right there.

Considering the front is, for the first time since lift, vibration free, I almost don't want to touch it, (Odd story coming on that), but what's the basis for determining spacer thickness, meaning how thick results how much additional lift?

I personally think 5.29's are a mistake. Should have gone 4.56 IMO.

I know your position on, Mark, but I don't think 4.56s or even 4.88s would've been enough to warrant, in my opinion, with these KM2s or potential 37s.

After seeing the difference in crawl speed alone, when running the same trails as aikirillo, I was sold. After driving on city streets, it's pretty impressive how "peppy" she feels.

Rest assured, they're set up properly.

 

[Delancy]

Dibs on the fan clutch.

Got your name on it.

Just recalled having the o2 sensor gaskets, too.

You busy Friday? Weekend?

Friday morning, it sounds like the D-4D diesel FJC will be at the house to for rear bumper install, links, and UCAs. If you want to come check out a one of a kind Toyota, c'mon.

Heading to Disney at some point this weekend, if interested.

I can't tell if your joking or not...

I can't either, Mo. That's the sad part.

I hold beno responsible.

 

[Delancy]

But depending on the exhaust note I guess.

To be addressed soon, too.

I'm a little loud, before gears.

 

[scottryana]

Spacer thickness is exactly what it is, the thickness of the spacer is exactly how much lift you will get simply because it's solid and doesn't compress.

If you have enough lift for your tires I wouldn't worry about the stink bug, you never know when you might have some heavy stuff in the rear. Or if the rear is too high, I would look at bringing it down and not the front up...

The 3k was a generalized statement concerning the 1FZ in this, and other applications, I believe, not a highway RPM.

Was stated by Robbie, to be 2600 with the speedo reading 75mph. Speedo is off by 5mph, I believe, so realistically 70mph. The 345s are an oversized 35, so it should be near perfect if/when true 37s are ran, but feels good with now.

That's with all the weight it'll ever be loaded with, right there.

Considering the front is, for the first time since lift, vibration free, I almost don't want to touch it, (Odd story coming on that), but what's the basis for determining spacer thickness, meaning how thick results how much additional lift?

I know your position on, Mark, but I don't think 4.56s or even 4.88s would've been enough to warrant, in my opinion, with these KM2s or potential 37s.

After seeing the difference in crawl speed alone, when running the same trails as aikirillo, I was sold. After driving on city streets, it's pretty impressive how "peppy" she feels.

Rest assured, they're set up properly.

 

[Delancy]

Spacer thickness is exactly what it is, the thickness of the spacer is exactly how much lift you will get simply because it's solid and doesn't compress.

As assumed. Just don't have a barometer to determine.

Going to jack up the body to a perceived level, measure, then compare against the known dimension.

Or if the rear is too high, I would look at bringing it down and not the front up...

My preference, but the coils aren't local, by any means.

Will contact Shane today to see what the suggested lengths may be, considering the height desired.

Rear coils alone may be worthless in the classifieds.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

I can't tell if your joking or not...

That's what's so confusing about Chris! It's usually either a funny joke or a shocking statement.. No one ever knows!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Fraglerock]

Rear coils alone may be worthless in the classifieds.

Or not, maybe I can start with those and have some fronts sent over at an acceptable length.

 

[Luke111]

From the picture you posted it doesn't look like a stink bug ! Hahaha ..it appears pretty level

Lou

 

[Delancy]

Or not, maybe I can start with those and have some fronts sent over at an acceptable length.

Love it when a plan comes together.

Can't call Shane, but going to do a little measuring, and email to see if a definitive cure is possible, considering his experience.

Once offered, will bump the Flexy coil thread for review by the masses, see what we can determine, too.

 

[Delancy]

No one ever knows!

I don't either.

Love it.

 

[Delancy]

From the picture you posted it doesn't look like a stink bug ! Hahaha ..it appears pretty level

Lou

aikirilo, aka "anal" just spent a good amount of time leveling his. Trying to find the dimensions he posted for comparison, but it looks goofy to me.

Maybe a good reason for an auxiliary tank and drawers.

 

[Delancy]

Cliff notes of another issue.


Lifted and bent the OE drive shaft.

Had a DC DS from AJIK, so installed and it vibrated horrendously.

Sourced used OE shaft from beno, lengthened, installed new u joints, balanced and seemed to correct the vibration.

Robbie regeared the diffs using the new spline output, refreshed the TC with new bearings and seals while installing the TC gears, then installed the freshly rebuilt shaft described above.

Called me during test drive (truck driver's waiting, so under the gun) stating there's was a problem, but he was confident that the gear pattern was correct and, even after I stated all the above, was going to pull his DC shaft and see if that corrected the growl.

It did and he left it on for me to drive with and have one built accordingly, (Thanks again, Robbie) but I'm under the gun to return to him by Monday, and having a hard time sourcing a DC joint (already tried Rick), and was concerned that spacing the front coils would alter the geometry enough to be premature ordering a specified length from Rick, since he offered.

Now that options have presented themselves to possibly have an outlet for the rear coils (than you, Rob) and leave the front alone, going to attempt to pull all necessary info from Robbie's loaner to build new shaft to, but my question is,

What changed to cause the previously functioning front shaft to vibrate (I love and hate that word, at the same time)? Is it possible that that the new flange decreased the distance enough to bind, or could the old bearings have allowed for more tolerance to the lack of DC?

Feel stupid, considering Josh restocked the DC I had, that now may have worked, so attempting to understand the cause.

 

[LT]

Cut and turn your axle and you won't have to worry about drive line vibrations ever again.

 

[kbahus]

Cut and turn your axle and you won't have to worry about drive line vibrations ever again.

I wonder why I have never heard of anyone doing this on an 80 axle, it's done all the time on 40's. There has to be a reason.

 

[Delancy]

Cut and turn your axle and you won't have to worry about drive line vibrations ever again.

Not vibrating now, is the thing.

Rides so well, the only vibrations to moisten the pink panties are from the KM2s, and that's with ~10 year old drive shaft that appears to have seen many a day in the rough.

May make Robbie and offer he can't refuse to avoid being in a time crunch.

Considering the amount of threads on this, y'all should fab up some housings ready to go, but AFTER I GET SLIDERS AND FRONT BUMPER, please.

I wonder why I have never heard of anyone doing this on an 80 axle, it's done all the time on 40's. There has to be a reason.

Cause 80 guys are a bunch of pansies that cant fab chit. (Self directed, before anyone gets butthurt).

Recently saw a thread on PBB where Ruff Stuff claimed they'd gobble up any 80 front housing for the knuckles, and that they could weld them to their housings, but believe questionable regarding separating and welding to OE housing.

I could see spending the money on a new housing, and building from there, but because of the radius arm mounts and all else that'd have to be cut and welded, wonder if there'd be an issue with structural integrity of the OE housing.

 

[LT]

Actually I refrain from the cut and turn on the 80 axle. If one were to do that, you would have to cut off all the brackets and re-weld them because of the rotation. You would be better off trying to get a company like RuffStuff Specialties to have pre-fabbed axles with the correct orientation and brackets welded on.

The knuckles are pressed into the housings and then welded on, so the structural integrity of the knuckle ball is not an issue.

 

[TheBigBoy]

The vibration aren't caster to start with. His caster is correct. It's the pinion/out put angles on the front shaft.

 

[landtank]

The issue with a cut and turn with stock 80 axles is the interference of the tie rod with the front arms. Depending on which plate system you use you could get more correction from the plates before you have interference issues.

And if you do do a cut and turn the position of the high pinion diff will be steeper and possibly effect the lubrication of the outer pinion bearing.

 

[TheBigBoy]

Landtank, Yep. Pinion and tierod clearance problems. We just bend the rods here to clear. But to do a wheel alignment a tierod needs to be removed, adjusted and reinstalled. It's honestly not worth all that effort. Just get a part time chris. You will never look back.

 

[Delancy]

Fellas, I have no vibrations with the ~ten year old, loaner shaft from Robbie, save those of the tires.

My question was more along the lines as to why, considering the shaft prior to diff and TC work didn't vibrate horrendously, BUT AFTER it did, and a previous DC shaft was a failure (not the shaft, but my set up ) yet this one is a success.

Reason I'm asking is in hopes of furthering the general education of myself, and the four to five others a day that post about this same issue.

A recap.

Could new bearings affect the driveline enough to cause this scenario? (DC shaft no worky before, DC shaft worky well now)

Pics of Robbie's shaft that DOES NOT VIBRATE.