Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (13 Viewers)

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Test fitting the spare carrier.




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Not sure what the debate surrounding all this was founded in, except general fear of the overly litigious society in which we try to conduct business, because I'd hook up to the thing as a recovery point (nope, not really, don't do it, was example only).

Going to drill out the plate and use for stud and lug storage inevitably.

Looks good.

Thanks again, Jerry.

Nice to have products that don't come in a branded box, but from individuals with skills.

Edited.

Adding link for carrier.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/652119-its-back-interior-tire-mount.html
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More info needed on that tire carrier... I know there have been a couple threads on these.. That unit looks nice....

P.S. Your build thread is surely inspiring future addicts everywhere...;)

Thanks, Chris
 
DIGLERZ said:
More info needed on that tire carrier... I know there have been a couple threads on these.. That unit looks nice....

Very cool. Jerry spent the time on it to space it far enough from the well that access is still easy to the compartment and it allow for a conceptualized WagonRack behind, plus it'll fit a true 37".

As far as I know, it's the last of it's kind, but Jerry'd be the one to talk to about. Hate to speak for him, but considerable discussion and a little history proved advantageous for me.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/543125-interior-tire-mount-91-97-fj-fzj80.html

Moving onto the 20lb Co2 tank next.

DIGLERZ said:
P.S. Your build thread is surely inspiring future addicts everywhere...;)

I'm not worthy, nor accept commendations. There's way to many guys here that have true skills. I'm in the bolt on crowd that occasionally outsources, so don't count.

We all may learn something from this endeavor.

I know I learned 5.29s rock, as do the TC gears. Can't get this chit eatin' grin off my face.

Bet I lost 5mpgs with the 5.29s cause I can't seem to keep out of it. Hahahahaha.
 
Luke111 said:
The only thing I'm learning is how to spend mo money... I want 4.88 gears ....chit eaten grin is right up my alley

Lou

Have to do my part in supporting the economy, you know, and it beats other vices.

4.88s should pull 35s and under very well. The KM2s in the 345/75/16 flavor are barely a 36, so the 5.29s may be a bit much for most, but I love it, plus one can never tell if Pitbulls in the 37-39 variety may be in the future.

Feels very narrow and I'm not a huge fan of spacers (even though I run on the rear of the FJC) so, sort of, wish of opted for a 17" with 3.5" back spacing to widen the stance, with a true 37" PB Rocker. since the 5.29s feel like they could lug them, no problem.



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Was on that "keep it OEish" looking kick when doing the wheels. Gonna wheel it just the same.
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Certainly given me a few ideas..

Also - All this talk of 37's in your thread recently has me thinking you might be looking to pull the trigger on some larger shoes someday... If so where does the line start for your current LX wheels with 345's..:)
 
Haha.

Just peeled the sticker off the tread of one earlier, so may be a little early.

Finished mounting the tires on Method bead locks for a buddy earlier, and have to say they're temptingly light, but the 24lb OEs, considering the inherent strength, are hard to beat.

Just wish they hadn't passed the 16" wheel up on tire production.
 
Are you sure..... Those Method wheels in the 17x9.5" verity with some 37-39" pit bulls would look really, really sick on you truck...;);)
 
Damn.... Alright back to the show......:popcorn:
 
The only thing I can think of Chris as far as the vibs go is that you didn't get one end of the shaft installed completely so it was actually a little cockeyed against the mating flange. I've seen this before. Do to the nature if a dc shaft it doesn't take much to throw it off
 
landtank said:
The only thing I can think of Chris as far as the vibs go is that you didn't get one end of the shaft installed completely so it was actually a little cockeyed against the mating flange. I've seen this before. Do to the nature if a dc shaft it doesn't take much to throw it off

Not to discount, but was meticulous for all, considering the nature.

It doesn't make sense that a standard shaft functioned fine, but regearing changed enough for it not to function, and now necessitate a DC (which us vibration feee) unless bearing wear could be attributed, or the assumed increased thickness of the 29 spline output flange.

Going to measure Robbie's and forward to see how it compares, because I'm having an issue sourcing a DC shaft locally.
 
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Do some research on Tatton's Shop in Utah, I think the guys name is Chris (I got it off here). I couldn't find a negative review on them anywhere, including on here. I gave them my specs and they built me a DC shaft for $350 to my door. I was really pleased when it got here because it was obviously overbuilt. It does use spicer joints and I know that turns people off but it works great for me.

The flange that attaches to the T case is too thick to use lock washers but i used some locktite, as recommended on here, and I've had no problems FWIW.
 
^^. Good to know.

Early on, talked to several and think it was Jesse at High Angle that'd (money back) guarantee it not to vibrate, using any joint, but specifically Spicers. Little pricey, regardless.

Still searching for a local shaft to cannabalize, since the resource to locally build is available.
 
Front bumper and sliders on the way.


Will be modifying both, to some degree, and attempting to fab a rear to "match", hopefully with aikirilo's buddy that has serious skills.

Was thinking about running the rear wings to the edge of the inner fender lip, then bracing inside the fender well back to the frame.

Haven't seen any like this, and figure there's a good reason why, so hoping someone can enlighten me.
 
Front bumper and sliders on the way.

Will be modifying both, to some degree, and attempting to fab a rear to "match", hopefully with aikirilo's buddy that has serious skills.

Was thinking about running the rear wings to the edge of the inner fender lip, then bracing inside the fender well back to the frame.

Haven't seen any like this, and figure there's a good reason why, so hoping someone can enlighten me.

Share the deets! I assume metal tech sliders? But who did you use for the bumper?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 

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