Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #662
Not a 97, but only 450 FSM I've seen in a hard copy.
Can't wait to fingerprint every page with grease.
Buddy's Methods done
I don't care much for mounting tires on bead lockers, right now.
Conventionally balanced and tech at well renowned local shop said they were the best balancing he'd ever seen. Considering they've been in business for 100 years, guess points go to Method.
Slated to install tomorrow with other items on the D4D FJC.
Can't wait to fingerprint every page with grease.
Buddy's Methods done
I don't care much for mounting tires on bead lockers, right now.
Conventionally balanced and tech at well renowned local shop said they were the best balancing he'd ever seen. Considering they've been in business for 100 years, guess points go to Method.
Slated to install tomorrow with other items on the D4D FJC.
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- Thread starter
- #665
devildogcruiser25 said:
Found here.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/650359-az-1996-lx450-repair-manual.html
After many months here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/wanted-parts/605390-1997-lx450-fsm.html
And being on a "will call" (email actually) list for the publisher.
- Thread starter
- #666
DIGLERZ said:
Way too small and think he ordered 4.5" BS, anyway.
I almost mounted the TRs with 35s from mine, just to see the widened stance.
But ain't breaking these down until the cords are showing.
If you have time to acquire, keep an eye on PolyPerformance open box page. Have seen several deals (where I got the 35s for FJC) there. Not many on 16s, but if 17s could be bought cheaply, may make the decision easier to move up.
I paid full retail for the KM2s on the 450 from the same shop that balanced the Methods. It's a local company called Dino's Wheel and Tire and have bought tires from them for many years. Felt bad not buying the FJC tires from them, so but the bullet on the 345 KM2s.
I really like KM2s. Best overall tire that wears very, very well and doesn't chunk in the rocks, but the side walls are still too stiff to warrant bead locks (less than 15 doesn't seem to buy much), and bead locks are a PITA, anyway.
ALL THAT SAID (I type about a thousand times more than I actually talk) I'd think FJC 17s would be a viable alternative to OEs. Equivalent weight, same strength, and a lot more options for tires.
Will have a set in the garage tomorrow that will, more than likely, be for sale for reasonable money.
I agree 17" wheels open up a whole new world with respect to tires... Unfortunately it seems I may suffer the same affliction as you, only in a much milder form (sarcasm). For whatever reason my head is stuck on LX wheels and "YES" I know the only difference between the 80/LX450 wheels is the damn line down the middle of the spoke........... Don't ask me to explain - It's a sickness I'm sure you understand.
- Thread starter
- #669
Little afternoon wheeling, with issues.
Realized two things when posing here, and reason for photos.
First, had felt a tremendous amount of play in the steering since returned, so much so, thought the alignment was off so racked it after futile attempts to minimize play by setting toe in the driveway. Aligned perfect Friday, so figured I had a stabilizer issue.
Not the case, but turns out the play adjuster nut was nut was loose, discovered when checking out shocks in the shot, evidenced with the 2 quarts of fluid spewed out on the rocks.
Tightened, filled, and all seems good, but will revisit when I hit the house with the FSM and fortune wrench.
Also, in the pic it's positioned where the PS rear wheel is spinning (natural RTI ramps rock) which was a little disappointing, until seeing that the rear OME is topped and the PS OME is bottomed. I don't know how much more usable shock travel is necessary, but more than the OME L's are capable of.
Going to measure at RH, deduct 4" of up, and see what total length will fit, but betting it'll be close to an 12" travel shock with more down, considering the rear binds long before a total of more than 12" is usable.
Good day out, even though mechanical issues abound. aikirilo is limping home with a stripped drive flange after several hard days of wheeling. Hopefully can make it to the house without any further damage.
The Marlin gears rock. Probably the most capability increasing investment possible for the 80. Locked in low, there wasn't and incline or decline that taxed and didn't feel the tires slip once.
Parting shot.
Realized two things when posing here, and reason for photos.
First, had felt a tremendous amount of play in the steering since returned, so much so, thought the alignment was off so racked it after futile attempts to minimize play by setting toe in the driveway. Aligned perfect Friday, so figured I had a stabilizer issue.
Not the case, but turns out the play adjuster nut was nut was loose, discovered when checking out shocks in the shot, evidenced with the 2 quarts of fluid spewed out on the rocks.
Tightened, filled, and all seems good, but will revisit when I hit the house with the FSM and fortune wrench.
Also, in the pic it's positioned where the PS rear wheel is spinning (natural RTI ramps rock) which was a little disappointing, until seeing that the rear OME is topped and the PS OME is bottomed. I don't know how much more usable shock travel is necessary, but more than the OME L's are capable of.
Going to measure at RH, deduct 4" of up, and see what total length will fit, but betting it'll be close to an 12" travel shock with more down, considering the rear binds long before a total of more than 12" is usable.
Good day out, even though mechanical issues abound. aikirilo is limping home with a stripped drive flange after several hard days of wheeling. Hopefully can make it to the house without any further damage.
The Marlin gears rock. Probably the most capability increasing investment possible for the 80. Locked in low, there wasn't and incline or decline that taxed and didn't feel the tires slip once.
Parting shot.
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Truck looks great Chris. Sorry to hear about your troubles out on the trail...looks a lot more dry than the last time Ryan and I went out.
Let me know if you don't want to stick with the KM2's as the BFG AT's on the LX will need to be replaced within 10k or less.
Let me know if you don't want to stick with the KM2's as the BFG AT's on the LX will need to be replaced within 10k or less.
- Thread starter
- #671
Driest I've seen it in a while, for sure. Doesn't bother me, since not fond of fording water.
Assuming you received group text invites.
Couple of numbnuts in Heeps provided entertainment. One was paper tagged and stock, yet driver had no aversion to driving off ledges and dragging the under protected undercarriage over everything.
Good times.
Still not sure what to do on PS gearbox. Figured out the jam but wasn't tight to begin with, which explains the steering play and inability to return to center, but have read the FSM ten times and still don't understand how to determine what the proper setting on screw adjustment is.
Also had to put clear fluid in, contrary to FSM guidelines (container actually states "not for use in.....") so hoping to figure out the "right way" to determine acceptable play, torque, and flush.
Always something.
A line had formed on the tires, but I'll be keeping. A trip through the rocks is a good reminder why I like KM2s.
Assuming you received group text invites.
Couple of numbnuts in Heeps provided entertainment. One was paper tagged and stock, yet driver had no aversion to driving off ledges and dragging the under protected undercarriage over everything.
Good times.
Still not sure what to do on PS gearbox. Figured out the jam but wasn't tight to begin with, which explains the steering play and inability to return to center, but have read the FSM ten times and still don't understand how to determine what the proper setting on screw adjustment is.
Also had to put clear fluid in, contrary to FSM guidelines (container actually states "not for use in.....") so hoping to figure out the "right way" to determine acceptable play, torque, and flush.
Always something.
A line had formed on the tires, but I'll be keeping. A trip through the rocks is a good reminder why I like KM2s.
- Thread starter
- #672
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MmTVW1_xuA&feature=youtube_gdata_player
My penance for being tardy was no cameo in video, but good showing of terrain.
aikirilo's in the black LX, but unsure of other LX's user name here.
My penance for being tardy was no cameo in video, but good showing of terrain.
aikirilo's in the black LX, but unsure of other LX's user name here.
Look into the Bilstein 7100 SB shocks, you seem to be able to get more travel out of less shock length. Might be able to stuff a 14" if you need it or a 12" SB would fit very easily.
- Thread starter
- #674
More than likely be running Radflo's, if not King's, the latter only if Glenn's customer service has faltered, which I doubt.
I'll throw triple BPs on, if that's what it takes to get a decent on road ride, since it is a Lexus.
aikirilo and I were discussing, and kind of the same conclusion as the rear of the FJC.
Measure ride height, deduct 4" and whatever extended is, it is. Based on the binding that occurs, limits much more than the projected 12" travel shock that'd result.
In all honesty, flex is good, but locked with crawl gears, don't know how important.
May not be pretty, but she'll damn sure get 'er done, regardless....and in leather. Hahaha.
I'll throw triple BPs on, if that's what it takes to get a decent on road ride, since it is a Lexus.
aikirilo and I were discussing, and kind of the same conclusion as the rear of the FJC.
Measure ride height, deduct 4" and whatever extended is, it is. Based on the binding that occurs, limits much more than the projected 12" travel shock that'd result.
In all honesty, flex is good, but locked with crawl gears, don't know how important.
May not be pretty, but she'll damn sure get 'er done, regardless....and in leather. Hahaha.
- Thread starter
- #676
DIGLERZ said:
The OMF conversions are cool. Debatable as to wether or not the KM2s cab benefit from air pressures low enough to warrant true beadlocks, but the faux locks protect the valve stem (seemed to have a lot of issues with stems on the FJC) and stiffen the outer rim, even though the lip is machined off.
OE's just make sense. They're stout, lightweight, but be nice if tire manufacturers would recognize the 16" crowd still lives.
I do have (5) old school FJC 17s in the garage up for grabs. Lightweight, stout, and cheap.
Bead locks are a pain in the ass. Unless your truck is 60 trail 40 road, I would skip it.
Kings are great, Fox's I wasn't impressed with, no experience with Radflo's. I only suggested SB Bilstein's because of the space limitations and usually people freak out about anything more expensive than a Monroe. Lol.
If you're spending the money on custom shocks find some 1500lb a corner race scales to get the valving right, will go a long way to eliminate trial and error.
Kings are great, Fox's I wasn't impressed with, no experience with Radflo's. I only suggested SB Bilstein's because of the space limitations and usually people freak out about anything more expensive than a Monroe. Lol.
If you're spending the money on custom shocks find some 1500lb a corner race scales to get the valving right, will go a long way to eliminate trial and error.
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- #679
DIGLERZ said:
Personally, I wouldn't do either, and for these reasons.
First, most tires that are street able aren't capable of benefitting from low enough pressures that beadlocks allow due to the sidewall construction being considerable stiffer than a true off road tire, especially the KM2s.
I've ran 10-12psi in KM2s with and without beadlocks, and there's nominal difference between the footprint of the tire, than running 20psi. Plus, I've never lost a bead running low pressures on the Toyota OE wheels, be it FJC or 80.
Second. Bead locks are a PITA!
If overland, and I mean deep in the bush travel, they'll allow for easier trail repair (if properly tooled) but I carry a spare, and there are some patches I'd prefer to drop the tire off to have repaired, but 99% of shops won't touch them for patching ( anyone can plug).
They're hard to balance (even though the recent Method's balanced well). Throw away the online calculator for dynamic balance weights ( they're are benefits to dynamic balancing, especially with tires that chunk in the rocks. The KM2s don't if running ~15 and judicious usage of the skinny pedal) and go straight to golf balls. (Little drama, but on 345s I'd put 16oz of air soft pellets. Can't have too much, but can have too little).
Third. If you live in a climate that sees occasional freezing precip, get ready with a Map gas torch to melt the ice that accumulates in here.
Those are skinny rings, and its enough weight to necessitate removal, otherwise it's like driving blocks after 25mph.
Last I like to worry with in sub freezing temps.
They're heavier, and rotational mass isn't like unsprung/sprung weight. It detracts significantly, and for little benefit for a vehicle that sees 5% usage off road (recent inquisition into an FJC buddy(?) about total usage off road resulted the 5%. She, yes she, wheels harder and more often than anyone I've seen, plus has bigger gonads than 99% of the FJC crowd, which would equate to about 90% of the 80 crowd.) and the balance on road. Can't gain that back, and it's felt in mpgs and HPs, significantly.
Lastly, I've not heard of many breaking an OE wheel. Toyota hit a home run, as far as I'm concerned, producing wheels that weigh in between 24-28lbs. It takes about $950 each to get into a bead lock of equivalent weight.
I realize its the last thing anyone wants to hear, once the mindset is made . I know, I'm equally hard headed......as proven by my acquisition of bead locks, against the advice of many that had experienced the same buyers remorse after, but I wouldn't do either.
In my earlier statements regarding, was talking about wrapping in a Rocker, which isn't conductive for daily driving, and would be capable of 6psi, for clarification, but after a 150 round mile trip this weekend, at 70-75, I realize how stupid that'd be.
For what it's worth, shine (or plastidip.) the OEs and put the money saved towards the Marlin gears, where it'll matter.
- Thread starter
- #680
scottryana said:
Doubt any are close to that ratio, and still not worth it.
scottryana said:
Nothing rides like a King, but had a lackluster customer service experience when trying to order for the long travel FJC.
Glenn at Radflo stepped up, and I'd rank his attentiveness and customer service above anyone's I've dealt with in the business.
It always amazes me the guys that complain about paying more than $50 a shock, that suspend a $2k rear swing out, $1k winch, etc.
I can't think of much that's more important than ride quality on a 6k pig, but my opinion and we all know what they're worth.
scottryana said:
Tried that on the FJC, and none exceed a out 750lbs a corner. Only race shops here are sprint cars, and a lot of them, but they're lightweight.
Next closest capable of corner weights are truck scales that's accuracy is questionable when less than 26k.
I'm going to start with "ride like a Lexus on road" and see how that works. I know Down South gets it, by my buddy Marco left there a few months ago, I've never worked with Sonny, and assume the first suggestion is King.
Don't want to pay an absorbent fortune to de- blue the Kings, which I think they charge because they're insulted that an on road vehicle doesn't want to be a rolling billboard.
"Why would you not want blue?" was the question posed a couple years ago, and it all went downhill quickly after that.
