Builds ?????????80 tm Build Input Requested (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Threads
337
Messages
12,380
Location
Tulsa
Translated as "Pink Panty 80". Long story.

After a arduous search, I'll be picking up this 450 Wednesday from Missouri.



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105k, two owner, elocked clean LX.
I'll add that I'm over budget.

Service is current, but no indication that hoses have been replaced or necessitated. I've not seen it yet, but will baseline all at Lexus of Tulsa, and replace necessary. I've history there, they've been instrumental in this acquisition and many others, and I don't mind paying a premium for a continued pedigree, in case flames were coming my way.

Concerned about a statement the owner made that he's never engaged the lockers in the 6 years, 40k he's owned.

Overview of usage is a capable crawler/trail rig that sacrifices little on road abilities. See a lot of 75-80mph stretches in my area, and most sanctioned areas/events are 200-250 miles away.

I take care of my wheelers, and when the time comes will build a Toy buggy so, by no means, is this a beater.

Not building an expo rig either, since I'm a one to two day tripper, so lean is the goal.

My initial project is to de-flare, de-clad, remove boards, roof rack and spoiler. The latter for aesthetics and to hopefully maintain less than 94" overall height. Install deadener at the same time, I'm assuming, and de-wood the interior.

Pics from TexasD90s thread, for reference. (Thanks, and watching your build TD90)



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I'm not a fan of bed liner, from past experiences and from an aesthetics standpoint, but after seeing TexasD90s "before" pics and input elsewhere, there's going to be a lot of patching involved, so requesting input about this choice.

Then

4" lift, or whatever necessary to maintain the lowest COG while clearing tires, and not sacrificing all uptravel. After conversing with LT, I'm concerned about not trimming the wheel wells. Not wanting to perform the surgery unless it's the only means possible.
Haven't decided on the form yet, but I'm probably continuing with Radflo, if there's a way to specify the valving based on coil selection, which I don't know yet, nor any other aspect of the control arm selection.

Intend on running 37ishx12.5ishx16, probably in the KM2 variety. I'd considered Trail Ready's, but they're heavy and I've paid the price on the FJC plus only available in 17", so unsure on wheel selection, or if anything but OEM is necessary. Not sure if converting to bead locks is feasible. Don't want to run spacers either, so see

LT at MT suggested 4.88s based on the higher speeds, and I've read contrary opinions here on Mud, so seeking input from the masses. I know 5.29s are commonly suggested by Muddinista's, but not sure if highway speeds were considered.

Few other undecided.

Tube bumper with winch
Single rear swing out
Speedo correction gear (it's cost me a fortune in the FJC, so preemptive)
Sliders and skids
Dual battery as back up function only
Hand throttle
OEMish stereo with satellite radio and IPod interface.

On the fence about the 3:1 low. Seems a lot of work for the ratio, but lower the better, and TC swap will go to the FJC first. Also on the fence about re-linking. Considering the SA will outperform the IFS I have, maintain the OEM linkage geometry, and "learn" when/if I SAC the FJC, depending on how much love is left for her after this begins.

Input requested. I know I hate these threads on the forum I frequent, and yes I've researched here for many months, but even my past positions have changed on the platform I'm accustomed to, and I have many regrets.

Can't thank all the guys that have played supporting roles in the search enough. Y'all know who you are, and for those that are still searching, I'm still searching for you, too. Habits die hard.

I've LT and Helocat to thank, as well Spenser (not sure of user name here) for this, plus a lifelong love of TLC's, though essentially this is the first "true" LC I've owned, even if it's an LT described "pink panty" version.

I'm trademarking the name in both English and Japanese, LT. Hahahaha.

Chris
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Six years with no elock activation may require some work. Then again you might get lucky.
 
ピンクパンティ着ないと走らないみたいな?
 
Mattnatti said:
Six years with no elock activation may require some work. Then again you might get lucky.

I'm prepared for delivery negotiations, if theres issues activating, but haven't attributed a figure to, yet.

Inevitably, they should activate with a little coercing, but if they refuse, I've no clue the cost to correct.

Any clues?
 
Nice truck. Looks unused.
 
Delancy said:
I'm prepared for delivery negotiations, if theres issues activating, but haven't attributed a figure to, yet.

Inevitably, they should activate with a little coercing, but if they refuse, I've no clue the cost to correct.

Any clues?

This is exactly why I wish I had went with a unlocked 80 and ARBs instead.
 
I am not sure on cost for a total rebuild but that may be unnecessary. I have read at least one thread here where some elbow grease and time will get them back into shape.
 
Fireguy said:
This is exactly why I wish I had went with a unlocked 80 and ARBs instead.

True story, so help me, and I've told elsewhere.

I had given up on this as an option, due to seller not calling at 6pm to confirm if previous buyer flaked.

I was proof reading my message to you at 8:30pm, with offer and intent on the 450, when the call came in as I was about to send.

I've told myself that you wouldn't have accepted anyway, to rationalize, and I wouldn't have blamed you, considering.

I did listen to yours and others input on the lockers, though, and weighed heavily on. Based on my experience with current vehicle, I'm of a mind that if I have issues with the elocked axles, then I'll throw the purism out and swap the axles completely.

Hoping that's not the case, and hoping to avoid another Ship of Theseus build.
 
Mattnatti said:
I am not sure on cost for a total rebuild but that may be unnecessary. I have read at least one thread here where some elbow grease and time will get them back into shape.

If they're anything like the 8" elocked, then it may be a matter of engaging and driving a slalom course, but honestly don't know.

I hope it's a non-issue, but if it is, trying to have a legitimate basis by which to determine a dollar amount to negotiate to.

I've paid a deposit, and will be taking certified funds, since there's was an issue with PayPal or wire transfer on seller's behalf, and cash from which to work from, in the event this, or any other issue is encountered.

I have little doubt that it's been represented with complete accuracy, and he was quick to reply to my question regarding lockers with "I've never used in six years I've owned" and considering the owner previous to him was a 75 year old Floridian woman, I'm betting they've never been engaged.
 
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I'll be shocked if they engage right away.

I'll be double shocked if they don't engage after a couple of days fiddling with them.

Did the seller use the existence of the lockers as one of his big selling points? The only sellers I've seen who ask a premium on locked trucks are enthusiasts or those who have researched the market well, prior to selling. Otherwise, similar trucks with and without lockers usually command a similar asking price. Just wondering if, from his perspective, non-functioning lockers should have any influence on his asking price.

At any rate, it took several days of activating/DE-activating, driving on dirt etc. to get my lockers to lock...and that was a 1997 with 50K miles back in 2000.

I'm looking forward to your build.
 
He made mention of the existence, but also they were never used, and he's not an enthusiast. Real estate agent who maximized the extra passenger capacity.

I had issues with the 8" rear elocker when I bought (used) too. It wouldn't lock unless I slalomed for a while. I regularly use, now, and it's engaged once a week, as a preventative measure, and locks quickly.

Hoping I'll get lucky.
 
Best of luck with the lockers. It is a clean truck. I am amazed at what your plans are for it.
It won't be the same after a short while.
As said above, look forward to your build.
 
If fabricating a front, considering flare-less, had considered mimicking the OEM with internal winch mount, in a similar style to this.



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Why is this a bad idea?

From experiences with the FJC Expedition One and a high speed encounter with a deer, I can see hoops being favorable, but short of that I've found no other benefit.

In attempting to maintain a minimalist appearance, shave unnecessary weight, this appears viable, but sure there's a reason why I haven't seen but this one.
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Fwiw- I bought my 97, 1 owner with 203k on it. The PO told me he never "turned that switch". My lockers wouldn't engage until i put it on a lift and turned the wheel lock to lock and shifting from drive to reverse. Now they work as the should.
Congrats on your purchase and I look forward to following your build.
 

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