80 series is not running correctly after washing (2 Viewers)

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Hey everyone, I’m having an issue with my 80 series Land Cruiser (1FZ engine) after pressure washing the engine bay. It wouldn’t start for a long time after washing, and now when I do start it:
  • The engine runs really rough and often stalls if I give it gas.
  • It usually idles better after warming up
  • When driving gently on the throttle, the revs go up to around 3000 RPM or sometimes more.
  • But if I’m quick on the throttle, it bogs out immediately
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
  • Cleaned the distributor and made sure all connections are tight and correct.
  • Made sure the MAF sensor is dry and plugged in properly.
  • Checked all engine fuses — they’re good.
  • Tested all spark plug leads at the distributor by pulling them off one at a time to check for sparks. They all spark, but one lead gave me a much stronger electric shock than the others, so I suspect it might be leaking voltage or have damaged insulation.
  • Made sure all of the grounds are properly connected
  • Taking it for a 30 minute drive but still didn’t get better
I think this faulty spark lead or coil pack wire might be causing misfires, leading to the rough running and stalling.

Has anyone experienced something like this or know how I can test or fix it? Appreciate any advice, thanks
 
Very different rig, but I had a phantom issue on a Scion TC where if I hit large puddles in heavy rain or anything else that sent water into the engine bay, one or more of the COP coil packs would misfire and completely die in short order. I solved the issue with new connectors and liberal application of dielectric grease.

My other thought is to check the intake hose from air cleaner to intake manifold. They're known to crack anyway, and using a pressure washer may have put some holes in it that you aren't aware of. It can be hard to tell if it's cracked in the creases of the corrugation. The easiest way to spot leaks is with a smoke tester.

The over-arcing lesson here is to keep the pressure washer out of the engine bay. There are too many ways to force water into places it doesn't belong, and the pressures are high enough to damage thirty year old brittle plastic. I've been known to use mild degreaser and a garden hose, kept low and away from electrical connectors, but never a pressure washer.
 
have you taken the plastic covers off the top of the head and checked for water in the spark plug tubes? It sounds like there may be water in there

+1 on what Marvelicious said about pressure washers as well, garden hose only I use and for small cleanups on metal parts i just use brake cleaner as it evaporates after a few minutes as well
 
have you taken the plastic covers off the top of the head and checked for water in the spark plug tubes? It sounds like there may be water in there

+1 on what Marvelicious said about pressure washers as well, garden hose only I use and for small cleanups on metal parts i just use brake cleaner as it evaporates after a few minutes as well
I haven’t taken them all off, but I took three of them off, and they all seem to be dry
 
Even after a couple of days drying ?
Yes. There are many threads on mud about this happening. You can read live data to see if you have any odd data to give you a hint on what issue the water causes. Typically the tps on a toyota is very sensitive to water specifically. But i don't remember what style tps the 1fz has.
 
Spray every electrical connector housing, both sides, with CRC QD plastic safe contact cleaner. This includes the distributor cap.
 
When it comes to under hood cleaning nothing compares to mind numbingly long hours of elbow grease to clean it up…. But also it’s an engine bay how clean does it really need to be? Outside of any fluid from the engine etc being not in its correct location in your engine bay just spot clean it… you’re not eating off any surface in the engine bay so what’s the point? Also it’s gonna get dirty and dusty it’s not sealed so let it be slightly dirty and dusty. Pressure washing and oily engine bay detailing spray is for the birds.
I love when a person buys a used car lot vehicle brings it in my shop and wants a PPI, I usually tell them there’s not much I can do for them cause the engine bay is slimed up with spray and has been previously pressure washed. What can I find under those conditions? when the engine bay is greasier than like a slip and slide at Ru Paul’s drag race. Nothing pisses me off more than a greasy “ detailed “ engine bay.
 
When it comes to under hood cleaning nothing compares to mind numbingly long hours of elbow grease to clean it up…. But also it’s an engine bay how clean does it really need to be? Outside of any fluid from the engine etc being not in its correct location in your engine bay just spot clean it… you’re not eating off any surface in the engine bay so what’s the point? Also it’s gonna get dirty and dusty it’s not sealed so let it be slightly dirty and dusty. Pressure washing and oily engine bay detailing spray is for the birds.
I love when a person buys a used car lot vehicle brings it in my shop and wants a PPI, I usually tell them there’s not much I can do for them cause the engine bay is slimed up with spray and has been previously pressure washed. What can I find under those conditions? when the engine bay is greasier than like a slip and slide at Ru Paul’s drag race. Nothing pisses me off more than a greasy “ detailed “ engine bay.
Solution: wash the engine bay.
 
@jakebarlow123 : Which model/year are you working on (you said 1FZ or is it 1FZFE), OBD I or II?

Already said; unless you knocked into something and physically broke a component the problem could be water trapped somewhere, connectors, inside a component, or inside harness bundles.

Have you checked for engine codes?
 
As stated spray the engine bay.
All wires, plugs and dizzy.
If interested try misting the engine bay on a dark night with engine running, you can normally spot random electrical sparking.
 

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