77 FJ40 - Slow & Steady Rebuild

[KingAir Driver]

I am the smartest man alive! Not really... So I got it running smoothly! Got the static timing set at 8 deg, it was up around 15. Got the idle down to about 900 rpm running pretty good, and traced the non charging alternator to a blown 15 amp Engine Circuit breaker.

Now, I need to re-seal the top air cleaner assembly and I should be done with the motor!

OEM rims are at the powder coaters and BFG's will be ordered soon. Then move on to the brakes, the right front is trash and the pads had dug a nice gouge into the rotor. The only time I drove it, the rear would slide when the brakes were applied (on snowy road).

 

[SteveH]

I believe that some of the water pump bolts are supposed to be installed with FIP to prevent leakage. Perhaps that's your issue with the WP?

 

[allan man]

Great job! keep up the good work.

 

[78fj40mg]

Excellent work my friend! Keep the pics coming.

 

[DSB345]

Just came across this I read the whole thread great work. Subscribed

 

[KingAir Driver]

I believe that some of the water pump bolts are supposed to be installed with FIP to prevent leakage. Perhaps that's your issue with the WP?

I did use a thin layer of the Toyota FIP on both sides of the WP gasket, didn't think the bolts required it too?

 

[SteveH]

I know one of the bolts goes right through the water jacket - and on every domestic/foreign car I have ever worked on, this calls for caulk/FIP on the threads of the bolt. I have fought this on my FJ40 water pump on the bolt closest to the driver's shock tower (the left-most bolt of the pump, I think).

 

[KingAir Driver]

@SteveH , thanks I'll try that. Seems that it is that bolt that is leaking.

 

[KingAir Driver]

Finished Engine Pic.

 

[40Wanted]

Nice rig and great work! The powder coating looks amazing

 

[KingAir Driver]

So I decided to throw the front up on jack stands and check out the front brakes etc. I think they still have a few miles left in them?

So, front brakes, calipers, pads, new lines for giggles, all new TRE's, shocks. Gonna need a second job.

Also, anyone know how to tell what size lift a 40 has? The PO said it had one, but ??? Here's a pic of the front springs.

 

[tlc762]

Those may be stock (7 leaf) springs (can't tell for sure about the bottom short leaf) with just a 2/ 2 1/2 inch shackle lift. I don't see any caster shims in the pics. How does it track down the road?
HTH
Will

 

[sggoat]

Brakes--saved this for after all the other great stuff you have done to this rig--Front reservoir was down in the first pics-may have leak in calipers or master--
I'm in the middle of fighting split/cracked hard lines on my 77 right now--Had dragging pads up front-installed new calipers--same prob.--turns out the flex lines(center and psngr side)had failed internally and collapsed-caused pressure to stay in the line and keep the pads pushed against the rotor. After replacing the flex lines, the hard lines showed up the cracks(prob me wiggling them around when installing the new flex stuff)-
just that you may want to check these before finishing it up.--cheap insurance--

 

[KingAir Driver]

@sggoat , thanks for the tips and the nice comments. The only time I drove it was from the PO's place about 3 miles to the highway. When I stepped on the brakes, the rear end wanted to slide to the right (snow-ice). To me this indicates the front right was not working, which based on the rotor and the fact that I couldn't push the caliper pistons in (frozen) makes sense. New lines, calipers, and rotors on both sides in the works. Not sure if I'm doing a full knuckle rebuild or just clean and see what happens. Really want to get it driving.

@tlc762 , not sure how it tracks since I've driven it once. But it helps that it could be a 2" ish lift. It has a good cruiser lean going on.

Stupid question? Do you just bent the tabs back where the hub attaches to the rotor? to fully access the nut...

 

[TheHardWay]

Yep.

 

[corleykj]

The engine bay looks great!
I wouldn't worry about a full knuckle rebuild. Possibly just regrease the wheel bearings if you are going to be putting the miles on it soon.

Great work!

 

[wscbill]

Good looking engine bay. A few strategically placed decals...

and it looks likes this photo from the brochure.

 

[KingAir Driver]

Thanks for the nice comment! I do have one sticker coming for the main air cleaner housing The others will have to wait.

@wscbill , you must have had some time to cut and paste all the stickers! Thanks for the tutorial. I should go through your Toolbag link to see what mine came with and if it's original.

 

[wombat]

If you havn't done it already make sure you take out the gas tank because it can get pretty rusty under there.

 

[KingAir Driver]

@wombat , When I replaced the fuel lines and the filler neck at the tank, I was able to lift the tank out just far enough to peek underneath (10 gallons of fuel in it), didn't see any major rust issues just surface and no leaking. The tank almost looked new, even though the PO didn't tell me about it being replaced. The fuel smell has gone away from replacing the evap lines and filler neck, which I was concerned about. When I get around to fixing the tub and body work ($$$) everything will be properly fixed. Just getting it safe and driving now.