77 FJ40 - Slow & Steady Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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KingAir Driver said:
Water pump and thermostat housing removal time. In hindsight, I should have drained the coolant out of the block drain prior to unbolting the water pump, live and learn I guess..........
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See, it's reading post like this that doesn't make me feel like I'm the only poor soul who expected one thing and got a different result, when the water pump was removed. Sometimes the best thought out plans don't go exactly as intended.....Read post #433 in my thread, so don't feel so bad. Been there done that, and was awarded a free ticket to clean the basement/garage floor!
 
subzali said:
Post up your frame number and engine serial number if you wouldn't mind. My 10/76 was freeborn red too.
Click to expand...

1977 FJ40 Freeborn Red
11/76
Vin: FJ40 237635
Eng # 2F 132687
 
A new day brings more tear down and more $$ for rebuild / refresh. I was finally able to take my manifolds to the auto hobby shop on base and used their blasting cabinet to do the intake and exhaust manifolds and also the upper thermostat housing. Only $20 and 1 hour later they look great! Now time to slap them together to take to the machine shop so they can get a nice smooth surface before re-install. The only problem I encountered was the 2 M10x30 bolts that attach through the exhaust into the intake had taken some threads with them during removal. I re-tapped the holes, but it's not getting enough grip to hold. I'm going to grab some 35 length today and try those. Contemplating using POR Manifold Grey paint on the exhaust portion for protection, the pics and reviews on here have been good.

Got my "new to me" '77 wiring harness to replace mine that was melted along the main power connection from the battery to the ammeter. I've been going through the new one and cleaning plugs and replacing ones as needed from my current harness that were in better condition. I found this awesome pin removal kit on amazon that has been a life-saver!

Finally, I got the thermostat housing separated, but not before snapping both bolts due to all the corrosion. Thanks @Racer65 for being quick on the shipping for a new one! I'll keep this one as a spare and get those bolts removed in the future. Time vs money at this point.

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Yep, they seem pretty good for my needs, I haven't bent or broke one yet and have put some good force on them. Nice cheap kit that has everything I should need to remove the pins.

John
 
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The sexiness that is powder coating! Took in 14 parts and five days and $150 they look awesome! Considering what my air cleaner assembly looked like to begin with.
 
Nice job on this fj40! It is motivating me to do more work on mine.
 
More progress in the last two nights. Started re-installing my refinished pieces with YZ JIS Flange Bolts from BelMetric. Installed new soft Fuel lines with the original heat covers that were still on there, they just needed a deep cleaning with Simple Green. New grounding cable from the starter to the frame, and installed the water pump and alternator bracket / engine hook. Took off the valve cover and stripped the peeling black paint and re-sprayed it aluminum, which looks much nicer. Tonight, I installed a new coil from O'Reilly with internal resistance since I'm running Petronix, and spliced in longer wires from the distributor to follow the actual wire loom. On Friday, I picked up the last OE Toyota re-man alternator in the parts system. Just waiting on my radiator core support, fan shroud, and lower cover to get back from powder coat to finish up the cooling system.

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Great find. Welcome to the group, and subscribed to follow the progress!!
 
So I was a busy bee today. Installed the new OEM Denso reman alternator, thermostat housings, newly painted valve cover, freshly milled intake and exhaust manifolds, painted carb plate, and re-built carburetor. I painted the exhaust manifold with POR-20 high temp aluminum color. Trying to use as many OEM parts as possible including all hoses and clamps.

Just waiting on the USPS and my powder-coated parts to wrap it up and hopefully it starts with no leaks! Also need to finalize the vacuum routing for de-smog.

The only part I'm missing is a connector from the battery cable to the fusible link!!! Any help?


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Looking great-did my valve cover the same way....................keep up the good work brother!!
 
So close to getting her running again! Only waiting on 2 parts, alternator belt and fusible link with connections! Hopefully by this weekend I'll have a running motor!

Need to clean and reattach the seals for the air cleaner assembly as well.

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Arg! So I get everything buttoned up, alternator belt installed and coolant poured into the new radiator and then I try to crank it for the first time! The starter spins but won't engage the flywheel and almost sounds like it's grinding. The 40 came with a reman Napa starter from who knows where and looked in better condition, but obviously not!

So then off to O'Reilly for a ND reman gear reduction starter for $89, why not upgrade? Hopefully that does the trick!
 
So new GR starter installed within 10 minutes (so much easier than the other brick). Turn the key, engine turns this time, takes awhile to get fuel up to the carb and then it finally lights off!

Biggest problems right now:

1) Engine is idling in the neighborhood of 2000rpm and there is a lot of stumbling. I need to go through the FSM and research here for fixes. Could be timing and or carb.

2) There is a f*#~ing leak from the water pump!

3) I'm not sure if the alternator is charging the system. Battery was a constant 11.8 volts, same with the B+ off the alternator. I'm pointing at the regulator since it was disconnected when I got it and that's the one thing I didn't replace.

Here's some video links if anyone can diagnose the hesitation? @Pin_Head , @FJ40Jim , @Weber Sarge







Water pump leak (no clue why it's red in color)

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Last edited:
Re-adjust the valves while they are hot - sounds like at least one exhaust valve is too tight , hence the popping in the exhaust . Pull the plugs as well and make sure they are all firing , check the color pattern . The red color is probably rust in the block being mixed into the coolant - needs to be flushed really well . Hopefully it hasn't started plugging up the radiator . The leak may be the back plate on the pump...
Sarge
 
Thanks Sarge! I'll get to it this weekend. Pulled all the plugs last night and most are white in color. Also, if I remember correctly the timing when I looked was near 30 degrees advanced when it was running at 2000 rpm. Need to check TDC and firing order and the valves.
 
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