70 Blue Chuck Pig

[J Mack]

I'm going to try drilling everything out and repair with a helicoil insert.

Broken extractor is most likely as hard as a standard twist drill.
Do you have a MIG or TIG welder?
I would weld a flat washer to the top of the broken mess down in that hole then weld a large nut to the flat washer, let cool slightly and use a wrench to remove the broken bolt. Might take several tries and at worst you'll soften the extractor so you can drill it out if needed.

 

[Guster]

I do have a MIG welder and will give that a shot, thanks.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Yeah, I never had much luck with easy outs. I use J Mack's way a lot, it helps expand the hole just enough with the heat.

 

[Guster]

The washer/welding method was successful in removing the broken extractor, which allowed me to drill out the hole for the insert. I was also having trouble removing the bearing race on the extension housing. On another mud thread someone mentioned running a weld bead around the bearing race. I did that and the race came out with just a tap.

 

[Guster]

Does anyone know of a source for m19x1.50 castle nuts? It looks like the Toyota part is NLA and the nut that came with the tcase rebuild kit appears to be a m20x1.50 stake nut . Not only is it too big there's also no place on the output shaft to stake the nut. The nut on the left below I purchased to confirm the correct size is m19x1.50.

 

[J Mack]

Does anyone know of a source for

Doesn’t matter what comes next if its Landcruiser related your first call should be to Kurt @cruiseroutfit.

Cruiser Outfitters

 

[Guster]

Thanks jmack, the tcase rebuild kit is from Cruiser Outfitters. I've been in communication with them, not Kurt, but they didn't have a tcase around to check the stake nut size. After confirming the m19x1.50 nut is the correct size, tonight, I sent them a follow up email. Maybe others are not running into this problem because they just reuse the original castle nuts. In my case one was already missing and the other damaged during removal.

 

[J Mack]

The guys at Cruiser Outfitters are fantastic “but” when I have a really difficult question I talk to Kurt.



Might want to grab a ¾”-16 nut and see how it threads on your shaft. Very close to the 19x1.50 size you are looking for but way more common if it threads on.

McMaster-Carr

 

[scrapdaddy]

You might end up just making a castle nut. I've done it before with acceptable results.

 

[J Mack]

You might end up just making a castle nut. I've done it before with acceptable results.

Or you can cheat with one of these.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-m19-1-50-spindle-lock-nut-kit/05104/4177314

 

[Guster]

Or you can cheat with one of these.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-m19-1-50-spindle-lock-nut-kit/05104/4177314

Thanks! Ordered a couple and will use if necessary.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, I didn't even know those existed.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I'd have filed a notch in the shaft and staked the nut to it. also, you could cross drill the nut and run a pin thru it...

 

[wngrog]

@orangefj45 will have that nut.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Or you can cheat with one of these.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e-m19-1-50-spindle-lock-nut-kit/05104/4177314



View attachment 1666049

That is a great option!

Sadly the OEM castle nut was recently discontinued and I'm still hunting a source. The Dorman option is interesting!

 

[Guster]

Finally getting back to work on this rig after a move. Hoping someone can help with some brake questions. I've installed a new dual circuit brake master and now need to run new brake lines and figure out what to do with the drum brakes. My original plan was to rebuild all of the wheel cylinders but the combination of wheel cylinders is not like anything else I've seen when searching the forum. Build date is 5/70, all of the fittings are 10mm. All wheel cylinders, front and rear, are single piston cylinders, see pic below. I'm not finding rebuild kits and at least one cylinder is too far gone.

Driver side, rear drum:

Is there any reason I can't replace all wheel cylinders with what would be used on a 72 or later FJ55? It would be around $336 for all of them through Cruiser Outfitters. I'm also looking into converting to disc all the way around but I'm not near any junk yards so parts availability is limited.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...Build date is 5/70, all of the fittings are 10mm. All wheel cylinders, front and rear, are single piston cylinders, see pic below. I'm not finding rebuild kits and at least one cylinder is too far gone.
Is there any reason I can't replace all wheel cylinders with what would be used on a 72 or later FJ55? It would be around $336 for all of them through Cruiser Outfitters. I'm also looking into converting to disc all the way around but I'm not near any junk yards so parts availability is limited.

Hmmm, great question. The backing plate is most definitely a different part number, I'd have to go peak at some axles to see if/what actually changed. Shoes are the same, hardware is the same. The hard brake lines on the back side are different as well but I've not tried interchanging. Let me know if you'd like me to dig into it some more.

 

[whitey45]

I have the same dilemma, more info would be great!

 

[wngrog]

I put 77 brake cylinders and lines from a 77 onto my 1968 with the old style backing plates. Works fine.

 

[Guster]

I put 77 brake cylinders and lines from a 77 onto my 1968 with the old story backing plates. Works fine.

Thanks. With that info I'll get the parts ordered. Did you drill holes in the backing plate to install the brake shoe retaining pin/spring or just run without like it was originally?