70 Blue Chuck Pig (1 Viewer)

[Guster]

I picked up this pig a couple months ago and was going to wait until this summer to try and get running. It's too cold to paint a different project so I'm going to mess with this one and hope to get it running before the end of March.

Pic from the Craigslist ad:

On the trailer for the ride home:

After some cleaning and wheel change:

 

[Guster]

The crankshaft had been removed from the F engine but most of the upper engine components are still there. I picked up a 2F engine for free last year that I'm going to swap in and keep the intake, carb, air cleaner and headers from the F engine.

 

[Guster]

Power steering conversion was done at some point:

2f engine from an 83 FJ60. Is the copper line, ends circled, something that was added by a PO and why?

 

[Guster]

Bud Light block off plate, lol. An electric fuel pump was installed on the F engine and this was used to block off the fuel pump location.

 

[bobm]

Like it. Cleaned up good.

 

[jm599]

I think instead of threading and plugging the hole they tapped it and fed it to the oil sending unit.
This is a site that can catastrophically leak.
In milling the head originally toyota capped this. But when head work is done, hot tanked, it weakens the plug, then it leaks.
A few threads on mud about plugging it.
I think that’s what it is.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

could be that the cam bearing or head gasket was put in wrong at one point and that pipe was put in to bypass the galley. the oil goes to the head via the crankshaft> cam> head bolt hole> gasket> rocker stand and special bolt> rocker shaft(directional). the only reason I can fathom that pipe needing to be there, is if the flow thru that pathway became blocked at one point...Post a pic of the junction of the head and block behind the water pump, or easier still, the head to block junction at the back of the motor, please... when the head gasket is installed correctly, it has a tab that should stick its tongue out of the back of the motor...if the head gasket went on backwards, it would have the same effect as the cam bearing and is a more likely reason...you should not need that pipe. you should attempt to determine why it is there. you should try to remedy the cause and remove that monstrosity.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

once you have figured out the bypass pipe, you should verify that the oil galley plug that @jm599 mentions is indeed properly plugged.

I think instead of threading and plugging the hole they tapped it and fed it to the oil sending unit.
This is a site that can catastrophically leak.
In milling the head originally toyota capped this. But when head work is done, hot tanked, it weakens the plug, then it leaks.
A few threads on mud about plugging it.
I think that’s what it is.

you are correct about the galley plug getting soft and weak and popping out post rebuilds, but the pipe that is in question wouldn't have alleviated the problem if that plug had come loose. it has to be there due to a blockage of oil at that point...not a gusher of oil at that point.

 

[Guster]

Thanks for the replies. Here is the back of the engine, looks like the tab is showing.

Close up of the added bypass, next to the galley plug which does need to be fixed.

 

[jm599]

Yep, my bad

 

[cruiserbrett]

I would bet that either:
engine got rebuilt and an early cam was used as a core for regrind. Oil passage drill holes were different. Consequently no oil flow to head.

Or

Cam bearing installed wrong.

 

[Guster]

Thanks. I'll see what I can find through search but once I pull the oil pan, is there an easy way to tell if an early cam was used or installed wrong?

 

[Ol Yeller]

That header has a story to tell...

 

[Guster]

Some pics of the crankshaft and cam. Since this engine was free I'm just going to clean it up, order some gaskets and put it back together. It supposedly was running before being pulled for a V8 swap. If oil flow is bad once it's running I'll keep an eye out for another 2f.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

you're so close to just being able to pull that cam to check it and its bearing... just need to get that big nut off the front of the crank...I would go ahead and pull the cam to check at this point, If it were me. get a gasket set and go for it. you'll feel a lot better about this motor when you find it can be made to work right, and it'll give you a chance to see if there is anything hinkey going on inside it...

 

[PabloCruise]

you're so close to just being able to pull that cam to check it and its bearing... just need to get that big nut off the front of the crank...I would go ahead and pull the cam to check at this point, If it were me. get a gasket set and go for it. you'll feel a lot better about this motor when you find it can be made to work right, and it'll give you a chance to see if there is anything hinkey going on inside it...

x2, and check the bearings, eh? Pan is off, might as well...

 

[Guster]

Ok, I'll dig deeper to try and find out why the bypass was added, starting with the rocker assembly to see if the oiling hole lines up. If I go to remove the cam I have to remove the lifters, correct? I didn't mount the engine out far enough on the engine stand so I'm unable to fully rotate the crankshaft at this time to remove the lifters. I suppose I could remove the pushrods after removing the rocker assembly and then rotate the entire engine and let the lifters slide out.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

You would want to remove the lifters, but you may get lucky up top. Heck it’s dang likely

 

[Guster]

The oiling hole on the rocker assembly did line up with the oiling hole on the head. In this picture the white zip tie only goes down the oiling hole about 1", it looks like just past where the galley plug ties in (and where that bypass is tapped). Is that oiling hole supposed to be a straight shot through the head? Thanks.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

No. Follow that hump that shoots off toward the #5 spark plug. You’ll see it is inline with the factory galley plug. You’ll notice the head bolt holt right in the middle of that path. Well, 2/3of the way... oil is supposed to pass from cam thru bearing to block deck thru gasket keyhole to head bolt hole to plugged cross galley to the base of the hole you see.