70 Blue Chuck Pig
- Thread starter Guster
- Start date
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LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
this will give you a chance to reset the timing plate gasket. if you find the cam and lifters to be a little sad, DELTA camshaft in Washington does good work. I paid 141 to my door for a regrind on the cam and lifters.
when resetting the timing plate, do not screw the oil squirter in too far or it will keep the plates gasket from sealing. also, pay attention to the bolt positions of the timing COVER. the bottom 2 bolts of the outer cover should get sealer on their threads. I thinks those are the big things...
when resetting the timing plate, do not screw the oil squirter in too far or it will keep the plates gasket from sealing. also, pay attention to the bolt positions of the timing COVER. the bottom 2 bolts of the outer cover should get sealer on their threads. I thinks those are the big things...
- Thread starter
- #23
Pulled the head this evening. All of the cylinder walls appear to be in good condition. To me it looks like oil was flowing between the oiling hole and the head bolt hole. I'll try and pull the camshaft this weekend.
- Thread starter
- #24
The camshaft bearing hole alignment looks good although I don't think the surface looks very good. The lifters are not sliding out, I turned the engine upside down and moved the lifters enough to pull the camshaft but I can't push any of them out. I'll see if I can tap them out.
The camshaft looks good but I guess I need to get the correct tool for measuring to know for sure.
The camshaft looks good but I guess I need to get the correct tool for measuring to know for sure.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Looks like some wear. Not too bad. Try blowing air thru all the ports of the galley. At this point, some air should prove or disprove the need for the bypass. I’m starting to think it was added out of ignorance.... Toyota forgot to put in a Oiler pipe, o well, nothing I can’t handle... if you don’t need it, ditch it. Delta is very fast on their turn around times. Like less than a week. Hth
- Thread starter
- #26
Air flows through the oiling holes, maybe someone thought the rocker assembly needed more oil? Probably obvious but this is my first time digging this deep so I've been reading up on 2f rebuild threads and fj40jim's what not to do thread. I had to drive out all of the lifters. Is that an indication the lifters need to be replaced or not relevant? This is quickly going from just throwing everything back together to I might as well do a "refresh" that hopefully doesn't turn into a rebuild.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
I am not sure you have the cam bearing in there at all. Sure doesn’t look like it...
Should be a silverish shell full round bearing.
Should be a silverish shell full round bearing.
- Thread starter
- #28
Here is a better pic after cleaning a little bit. I'm going to head to a machine shop this week and see if he has time to look things over, at a minimum it looks like the cam bearings need to be replaced.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
There is a bearing in there. But I am sure it’s not sized properly. It should have an oil clearance of .001”-.0025” which would prevent it from getting the dark carbon buildup.
Do you know the history on this motor? Was it rebuilt before? I would guess the block went through a hot tank cycle and the cam bearings weren’t replaced. The hot tank cycle eats the Babbit material, and leaves a copper plating and the steel shell.
Do you know the history on this motor? Was it rebuilt before? I would guess the block went through a hot tank cycle and the cam bearings weren’t replaced. The hot tank cycle eats the Babbit material, and leaves a copper plating and the steel shell.
- Thread starter
- #30
I only know that it was pulled from an 83 FJ60 with approx. 200k miles for a SBC swap. He said it was running but wanted more power. It was free and I only needed the exhaust manifold at the time but took everything home. Then, I picked up this pig with its F engine in pieces so I'm trying to put in this 2F.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
Grind can and lifters and replace bearings and rings and call it a day. Unless you’re down for the machine work and parts... this is your crossroads... I vote for easier, but without disregard
- Thread starter
- #32
Have you seen lifters like what came out of this 2f? They don't look like the OEM, p/n 13751-61010, or the aftermarket ITM lifters. These lifters don't have holes like the OEM or aftermarket lifters and they had to be driven out. I don't want to send them with the cam if they are not correct.
The local one man machine shop is booked out for months so he is not an option for installing the cam bearings. NAPA has a machine shop but they would take a few weeks to turn around and would charge $75 if everything is removed from the block. I went ahead and ordered this cam bearing tool, Lisle 18000 Universal Camshaft Bearing Tool | eBay, going to do it myself. New cam bearings are around $23 so I might order 2 sets in case I mess up a bearing during install.
The local one man machine shop is booked out for months so he is not an option for installing the cam bearings. NAPA has a machine shop but they would take a few weeks to turn around and would charge $75 if everything is removed from the block. I went ahead and ordered this cam bearing tool, Lisle 18000 Universal Camshaft Bearing Tool | eBay, going to do it myself. New cam bearings are around $23 so I might order 2 sets in case I mess up a bearing during install.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
Another thing to be aware of:
Toyota roughly sized the bore in the block. What this means is some times it might be +/- a few thousandths of spec. So the pressed in cam bearings might not be the correct size. I learned this the hard way.
Measure the can bearing bores before installing bearings.
If undersized by .002” or more, expect installed bearing to be too tight. And cam won’t install.
You’ll have to figure a way to hone to size.
Toyota roughly sized the bore in the block. What this means is some times it might be +/- a few thousandths of spec. So the pressed in cam bearings might not be the correct size. I learned this the hard way.
Measure the can bearing bores before installing bearings.
If undersized by .002” or more, expect installed bearing to be too tight. And cam won’t install.
You’ll have to figure a way to hone to size.
- Thread starter
- #35
I went ahead and pulled the lifters and camshaft from the F block that was installed in the pig. The lifters all slid out easily, I might send them to Delta with the other camshaft. Based on some paperwork I think the camshaft from the F engine was already custom.
Does this look like a crack?
Does this look like a crack?
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
oooh maybe... check with delta to see if they can check that...the profile on the cam looks very close to the kc 289 grind I got from Delta. that is their 262* @ .020" cam. it is an animal. It does give a lot of pep in the step, but comes at the cost of idle quality and valvetrain noise. if you are looking for the classic F engine smooth slow sewing machine feel, you really might consider the stock regrind...
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
howd you get the gear off that thing? I had my machinist do it... don't forget to put the keeper plate on before the gear!
- Thread starter
- #39
This is the head bolt from the oiling location on the 2f, flattened a bit on both sides by someone.
On another thread someone mentioned using Rustoleum appliance paint as a match to Cygnus white. I'm not sure if the white on this pig is Cygnus but this test spray, around the lower, middle of the pic, turned out okay. I'm just going to use it for spots where the paint is down to bare metal and has been treated for rust. This is what I used, Shop Rust-Oleum Specialty Biscuit General Purpose Spray Paint (Actual Net Contents: 12-oz) at Lowes.com.
On another thread someone mentioned using Rustoleum appliance paint as a match to Cygnus white. I'm not sure if the white on this pig is Cygnus but this test spray, around the lower, middle of the pic, turned out okay. I'm just going to use it for spots where the paint is down to bare metal and has been treated for rust. This is what I used, Shop Rust-Oleum Specialty Biscuit General Purpose Spray Paint (Actual Net Contents: 12-oz) at Lowes.com.
- Thread starter
- #40
Decided to take the block all the way down and measure cylinder bore with hopes of just needing to hone. The top ring on 5 out the 6 pistons was broken, in two pieces. If anyone sees any signs of problems with the crankshaft please let me know. Thank you.
