70 Blue Chuck Pig
- Thread starter Guster
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Strange, the rear backing plates on my 70 have no holes for the retaining pins and the only hole on the front is for mounting the T for the brake lines.
Yes, but I'd like to try making them first, will contact Rainman if making them doesn't work out.
- Thread starter
- #83
Here are the new wheel cylinders on the front driver's side.
Here's the backside and original T fitting. The original cylinders had a banjo bolt with a junction for the brake line. The banjo bolt does not fit in the new cylinders so I'll need to run the brake line directly from the T fitting to the wheel cylinders. I had purchased some short, pre-made brake lines from Napa with the fully threaded 10mm fitting. The fully threaded fitting does not fit correctly in the T fitting. When hand tightened you can move the brake line up and down a little bit with the fitting threaded in and that does not happen with the original fittings that have the non-threaded lead. Second pic shows the the Napa and original fittings.
Here's the backside and original T fitting. The original cylinders had a banjo bolt with a junction for the brake line. The banjo bolt does not fit in the new cylinders so I'll need to run the brake line directly from the T fitting to the wheel cylinders. I had purchased some short, pre-made brake lines from Napa with the fully threaded 10mm fitting. The fully threaded fitting does not fit correctly in the T fitting. When hand tightened you can move the brake line up and down a little bit with the fitting threaded in and that does not happen with the original fittings that have the non-threaded lead. Second pic shows the the Napa and original fittings.
This might help....http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common flares6.pdf
- Thread starter
- #85
Thanks, I was looking at ordering these, 10mmx 1.0 Fine thread, male steel nut with non threaded lead, SAE (double) and DIN (bubble) flare, 17mm long., but thought it was strange that it says the nut will work for inverted/double and bubble flares. I'll probably order some but I've also asked Rainman about a couple of his brake lines and to see if he sells just the fittings.
Get this one, it's what I used on mine.....10mm x 1.0 Fine thread, male, fully threaded, steel nut, SAE (double) flare, 16mm long.
- Thread starter
- #87
I went ahead and ordered both, here's a picture of the various fittings. From left to right, original, Fedhill part #M1-3, Fedhill part #M5-3 and a pre-made line from Napa.
My first line, not super pretty but should work.
My first line, not super pretty but should work.
- Thread starter
- #88
Lines built for the front, here's a pic of the driver's side. There could be an issue if I have to adjust the steering stops but it's about where it was originally so I don't think there will be a problem. It's looking like using the newer wheel cylinders is going to work, just taking some time to build all of the lines and it helped that I already had a couple of elbow fittings to replace the front t-fitting and the second for the new rear circuit. Knuckle cleanup/rebuild will happen some other time.
- Thread starter
- #89
Fired up the "rebuilt" 2f for the first time today. Wanted to run it for the initial 20 minute break in process but oil pressure seemed high and I had a coolant leak out of the rear heater. Oil pressure was at 60 psi on a mechanical gauge which I think is higher than normal for a 2f but after a mud search others have had that high of pressure after a rebuild. Still some cleanup of the wiring to be done once I know it runs okay but here is how the 2f looks now.
Excellent work.
I did a 4 wheel drum job on my FJ45 and it sucked ass. Hope you got it close so when you test ride it stops!!
I did a 4 wheel drum job on my FJ45 and it sucked ass. Hope you got it close so when you test ride it stops!!
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- #91
I hope to be testing those brakes soon. Ran the initial break-in for 15 minutes. Oil pressure was just below 60psi and vacuum at 18 while I was at, I think, between 1,500 - 2,000 rpm. I did have to stop a minute into the process to tighten up a fuel line. I plan on mounting the vacuum gauge on the other side of the steering column.
Pretty happy with the exhaust sound, exhaust tubing kit off of Amazon and a Dynomax muffler. Picture strategically taken to not show any of my welds.
Pretty happy with the exhaust sound, exhaust tubing kit off of Amazon and a Dynomax muffler. Picture strategically taken to not show any of my welds.
I need the link to the exhaust kit....
- Thread starter
- #94
I ended up with extra tubing and had to shorten some of the angled pieces to fit correctly. I didn't figure this out until I was almost done but cutting the U pieces in half, then rotating to the shape needed and welding back together was a good way to get the correct shape. Tried to post just links but it keeps loading the Amazon preview crap. The clamps I used just for the connections to the muffler to make the install easier.
Amazon product ASIN B01I47IFC0Amazon product ASIN B078TZ2G9T
Muffler - Amazon.com: Dynomax 17613 Installer Turbo Muffler: Automotive
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- #95
The power steering setup I ended up with is a FJ60 power steering pump and (I believe) a Scout steering gearbox. The fitting on the gearbox is an 11/16 flared fitting. I'm on the search for an adapter that converts the 11/16 female fitting on the gearbox to a 16mm female fitting that accepts the FJ60 power steering pressure hose. Anyone know if that type of adapter is available? I have not had any luck searching so I sent a request to Cruiser Brothers today to see if they have anything. I'm not very close to a hydraulic shop to easily have a custom hose made but will do that if necessary.
Try this site, they have it all....https://ormebrothers.com/
Orme Brothers Inc. Performance Hose and Fittings
Custom and Production Hose and Fittings for Industry and Performance. Specializing in Brakes, Fuel, Oil and production assemblies.
ormebrothers.com
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- #98
Working on relocating the air cleaner since the power steering pump is in the way and it sounds like the older hoods don't have the clearance for the 2f air cleaner. The holes from these 78 FJ55 shackles line up perfectly for the head bolts and the air cleaner mount.
Also realized I routed my exhaust straight out the back, straight into where a bumper would be if one were installed, two steps forward, one step back, lol.
Also realized I routed my exhaust straight out the back, straight into where a bumper would be if one were installed, two steps forward, one step back, lol.
- Thread starter
- #99
Does anyone have a pic of where the connector shown below should be connected? The second picture shows how it looked when the pig was purchased, looks like something is missing from the fender. This is a 1970 and the wiring diagram says the yellow/red wire is part of the fuel sender gauge circuit.
Was that the location of the emissions “computer”? Sorry I don’t have a diagram handy, or a picture...
