70 Blue Chuck Pig (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Guster
- Start date
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Good thing you tore into it...
- Thread starter
- #43
All of the cylinder bore measurements were within spec. The only potential issue I found is this scratch in the #5 cylinder. Maybe it won't be perfect but will this potentially be okay after honing and new rings? The deepest part of the scratch is the dark spot at the bottom.
Can’t mic it thru the screen, bro... you’re gunna need to get that looked at, I’d reckon. Oh the fun starts quick, don’t it, then?
- Thread starter
- #46
Thanks for the replies. I keep digging myself into endless projects because I want to get everything right. I'm gonna have to go with good enough on this one, that is, if I don't mess up the cam bearing install. I'll hone the cylinders, install new cam, main and rod bearings along with new rings and hope it all works out.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
If you can catch your fingernail on it, it will need a bore and new pistons/rings. Or it will burn oil for sure.
How are you measuring the cylinder bores, with what kind of tools? It really requires an expensive bore gage or a set of snap gages+micrometer and a very accurate user. You’d be surprised how out of round the bore can get on the thrust side...
How are you measuring the cylinder bores, with what kind of tools? It really requires an expensive bore gage or a set of snap gages+micrometer and a very accurate user. You’d be surprised how out of round the bore can get on the thrust side...
- Thread starter
- #48
My fingernail catches a little bit at the very bottom of the scratch but the rest of it is not bad. I used this Telescopic Bore Gauge Set and this Micrometer Set. Not the highest quality set of tools but I think should work okay. Now, the accurate user part could be an issue. This refresh is more for the experience and trying to get a decent runner into the pig without spending a bunch of money. I will run through the bore measurements one more time to confirm my first measurements. If those numbers still look okay I'm going to get the remaining parts ordered and put it all back together.
It’s just time and money, as long as you’re having fun I see no harm moving forward with your plan.
We talk about doing it “correctly” to help ensure the desired results but honestly some of my best running engines were junk yard engines with a beater hone rebuild back in my high school days before I had the money to do it “correctly”
Good luck, thanks for taking us along with lots of pictures!!!
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
Try running the ball home in the cylinder and getting a good correct angle cross hatch. See what the scratch looks like after that.
How are the ring lands in the pistons? Especially the one with a broken ring? Have you checked clearance?(not ring gap)
On a positive note, as best I can tell, the crank looks decent from afar. How does the thrust bearing clearance and surface look like? If someone rode the clutch a lot these can be really bad...
How are the ring lands in the pistons? Especially the one with a broken ring? Have you checked clearance?(not ring gap)
On a positive note, as best I can tell, the crank looks decent from afar. How does the thrust bearing clearance and surface look like? If someone rode the clutch a lot these can be really bad...
- Thread starter
- #51
All of the pistons appear to be okay. Strangely enough, the #5 cylinder with the scratch is the one piston that did not have a broken top ring. I removed the cam bearings and installed the new bearings today. The process was pretty easy with the bearing tool, we'll see how things go when I get the cam back. Blew air through all of the oiling holes after installing all bearings. The oiling holes were easy to line up by looking at the visible channel going to the crankshaft bearing oiling hole.
Ready to install the front bearing:
Front bearing installed:
All cam bearings installed:
Ready to install the front bearing:
Front bearing installed:
All cam bearings installed:
- Thread starter
- #52
Tried to hone the cylinders yesterday but did not get a good crosshatch angle. Ran the hone again today, moving the hone up and down the cylinder as fast as I could, with the drill running around 800 RPM. I think this crosshatch looks good, definitely better than my first attempt.
Run it!
How’s the scratch look?
I'm with J Mack on this one. I've done some backyard builds with the block still in the truck, hone 'em out and run 'em. It will be fine.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
That cross hatch will be fine! It is tough to get the feel of getting a good angle.
Worst that will happen with the bore scratch is a little burning of old, but better than a broken ring!
Worst that will happen with the bore scratch is a little burning of old, but better than a broken ring!
You want to burn a little oil, it will lube your muffler bearings.
you'll prolly be fine. I'm jealous of your resolve. looking forward to the reports of a clean running, self oiling engine...without prehensile appendages...
- Thread starter
- #60
Thanks, I'm hoping for those same types of reports. And speaking of the muffler, when I cut the exhaust pipe between the header and muffler a literal rats nest poured out so I'm sure the muffler is full of crap. While waiting for the engine parts I started work on rebuilding the transfer case and gasket replacement on the transmission.
One of the bolts attaching the vacuum assembly to the extension housing broke off, must have been cross threaded because the others were easy to remove. I tried removing the broken bolt with an extractor and the tip of the extractor broke off,
. I'm going to try drilling everything out and repair with a helicoil insert.
One of the bolts attaching the vacuum assembly to the extension housing broke off, must have been cross threaded because the others were easy to remove. I tried removing the broken bolt with an extractor and the tip of the extractor broke off,
. I'm going to try drilling everything out and repair with a helicoil insert.
