62 FJ45 SWB

[HUNTER3DAN]

This may help, or not. Wondering if you’re missing the valve shield caps (for some reason) which are the “seals” for the dual-springed valve setups.

I would agree! I noticed that in my manual but hadn’t seen it anywhere else while researching. I found where the Oring type I have is meant for the top of the stem and was sometimes all that was used. I think I can make what I have work just fine honestly.
anything will be better than nothing that is forsure! I was surprised to find no seal whatsoever.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Also was able to sand and polish the glass and get the welding slag pits and bad scratches out. They are not perfect but much better.

 

[aztoyman]

Nice!

 

[EWheeler]

Also was able to sand and polish the glass and get the welding slag pits and bad scratches out. They are not perfect but much better.


View attachment 3372474View attachment 3372475
View attachment 3372476View attachment 3372477View attachment 3372478

Curious to hear the process on the glass sanding/polishing? Results look great!

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Curious to hear the process on the glass sanding/polishing? Results look great!

I used this kit ! And they have many videos how to do the process. It’s hard and a little stressful with tempered glass and you have to take your time. Depending on how bad the damage is will determine the amount of effort and time it takes. If not severely damaged I don’t think it would be very hard. Mine was bad. I rushed a few and there is some distortion in the glass. Again better than all the welding pits but a little distorted.
It’s a messy process. I probably spent 20 hrs on the rear glass and just the two roll up glasses. You can easily clean water spots and small scratches.
There are plenty of tricks and things to look out for. Anyone wanting more info feel free to message me.
It would be a long post to write the entire experience out. Lol

Glass Polish 25022 PRO Glass Scratch Removal Kit for Professional Glass Scratch Repairs - Ø 5 inch with 5/8-11 Thread https://a.co/d/j2HO0hX

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Well I put some new valve seals in. Adjusted clearance and exhaust smoke was slightly better. I let the truck run for a while tonight. But wasn’t able to drive it yet. I did one of those blue chemical block test kits on the radiator and wasn’t getting any discoloration. While doing this I played with the carb adjustments and was able to get vacuum around 18-19 idle at 700 ish and smoke is slightly better. Spark plugs still show black carbon. But they seem pretty dry and with one wipe they are clean again.
I’m guessing since I’m driving it maybe?? And still maybe running rich?
I did a dry compression test after all this so it was warm.
Below are the numbers I got. The only thing I didn’t do is open the throttle while testing. I’ve ready you should and also it doesn’t matter. Haha

134
129
130
135
130
134

From what I gather this is acceptable. I’m currently running 10w30 synthetic motor oil. Only cus that is what I had and wanted to get thing a moving. I’m wondering if anyone had opinions on best oil for an old rig of this type. Anyone had goodie bad experiences?
Also could it be possible with these compression numbers to still possible be getting oil past the piston seals? The smoke in the exhaust isn’t very blue to me but may have a hint of blue. I’m thinking my biggest issue is the carb at this point.
I’m still learning so I’m sure I don’t have it set the best it can be.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Also I found this old carb. Original??
Who might know someone trust worthy and knowledgable enough to rebuild?
I’m not positive the one I current am using is original. Would be nice to have correct one installed.

 

[3_puppies]

I run 10-40 in my older stuff, I still am able to get it from our supplier at work. Doesn't seem to be on the shelf at any stores locally anymore.

vacumn looks good
compression #'s are right in the middle range

Carter is not an OEM carb

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

I run 10-40 in my older stuff, I still am able to get it from our supplier at work. Doesn't seem to be on the shelf at any stores locally anymore.

vacumn looks good
compression #'s are right in the middle range

Carter is not an OEM carb

Great!!! Thanks for all that info.

 

[middlecalf]

Vacuum and compression are fine. You could just be suffering from non-functional oil rings (aka broken, stuck). Only way to determine that is to pull the pistons. Are you burning oil? If not too much, a little blue smoke helps with the mosquitos. Maybe try some SeaFoam and see if that cleans things up a bit.

I’m running two of those WA-1‘s on my dual carb Offenhauser setup, cuz’ I’m a glutton for punishment . Runs pretty good for a motor that was blowing smoke with many broken piston rings and a slowly dieing head gasket (both/all repaired). The Carter’s are not original to Toyota but are the carbs Offenhauser suggested for their dual carb setup. FWIW. They’re easy to rebuild, simple and fairly dependable. But having spent a few years in St. Louis I’m a bit biased towards Carter (and Ramco piston rings). Mike’s Carburetors has kits for these. And just to prove I’m not a complete imbecile I have two Toyota SD-40’s (those would be original to our rigs) with rebuild kits sitting on the shelf for a truly smashing, and probably unique, dual “big glass” setup, someday.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Vacuum and compression are fine. You could just be suffering from non-functional oil rings (aka broken, stuck). Only way to determine that is to pull the pistons. Are you burning oil? If not too much, a little blue smoke helps with the mosquitos. Maybe try some SeaFoam and see if that cleans things up a bit.

I’m running two of those WA-1‘s on my dual carb Offenhauser setup, cuz’ I’m a glutton for punishment . Runs pretty good for a motor that was blowing smoke with many broken piston rings and a slowly dieing head gasket (both/all repaired). The Carter’s are not original to Toyota but are the carbs Offenhauser suggested for their dual carb setup. FWIW. They’re easy to rebuild, simple and fairly dependable. But having spent a few years in St. Louis I’m a bit biased towards Carter (and Ramco piston rings). Mike’s Carburetors has kits for these. And just to prove I’m not a complete imbecile I have two Toyota SD-40’s (those would be original to our rigs) with rebuild kits sitting on the shelf for a truly smashing, and probably unique, dual “big glass” setup, someday.

Haha that’s great to know!!!
Oil seems really clean and I’m not loosing oil or coolant. I could be just beating a dead horse thinking I can get it nearly perfect.
I understand it’s an old tractor!!
I just can’t help but to get curious and want to try things incase it makes a difference.
At this point I think it’s time to settle with the way it’s running for now.
Possibly try the thicker oil and soon be driving it more than just running it in the garage. I need to do more research on adjusting the current carb that is forsure.
It would be nice to know I have that to its best current capability at least.

 

[Michael B]

You might try 15-40 diesel oil. I recently started using this in my 68’ Chevy and I can tell a difference. Also, driving it more will keep the valve stem seals tighter and could help reduce the smoke you’re seeing.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

You might try 15-40 diesel oil. I recently started using this in my 68’ Chevy and I can tell a difference. Also, driving it more will keep the valve stem seals tighter and could help reduce the smoke you’re seeing.

Interesting ! What type of differences were you seeing using that oil? I have been doing some reading on oil and it does seem beneficial for my situation and the trucks lifestyle to be using something around that 10w40 or maybe 15w40. Won’t know till I try but I’m glad to hear others seem to have success with it.

 

[Michael B]

I had a leaking front main on my SBC and it has slowed it down tremendously.

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

I had a leaking front main on my SBC and it has slowed it down tremendously.

I think that oil has helped my truck a fair bit. Seems to be running with minimal smoke.
Thanks for the tip!!!

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

I cleaned up the generator. Did not take very good photos. But it turned out pretty dang good. Armature tested out just fine. Turned the commutator down a hair and cleaned it all up. Hope to install soon and get to more wiring.

 

[Michael B]

I think that oil has helped my truck a fair bit. Seems to be running with minimal smoke.
Thanks for the tip!!!

You’re welcome sir! Happy motoring!!

 

[tahoe40/45]

Looks good. Did you paint that with a off the shelf paint?

 

[HUNTER3DAN]

Looks good. Did you paint that with an off the shelf paint?

I had some custom made a bit ago when I did the starter. I had a solenoid that I could color match. Also this generator I could see the color pretty well and it’s very close actually. Not perfect but close!!