- Thread starter
- #361
Well. I was looking at those and they’ve got a bunch of negative reviews from folks on mud
60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion (15 Viewers)
- Thread starter dbbowen
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The OME caster bushing make the ride stiffer, limit articulation and don't last as long. JMO
When I ran them they they spun in the arms. I do wheel harder then most.
Have you tried with out the plates ? FSM calls for 1-3* for a 80
When I ran them they they spun in the arms. I do wheel harder then most.
Have you tried with out the plates ? FSM calls for 1-3* for a 80
- Thread starter
- #363
That’s kind of what I’ve been reading about the plates online. You know I didn’t even think about trying without. I need to find my alignment printout to know exactly what my caster was but I’m almost positive it was 5 or 6, which would put me at 0ish without them.
Driving actually isn’t too bad with the extra caster. The springs rubbing is just annoying as hell on every big bump
My 2.5” caster plates are a little more than 4degrees and you should be able to use a stock front drive shaft with them without issues
- Thread starter
- #366
Oh man I totally forgot I posted that here. Perfect. So I guess without the plates I’m at 1 degree. With the dobinsons plates I’m at 6 degrees.
I’ve had a second alignment on a better machine since this pic but the caster was similar. They were both closer to 6. I seem to have thrown away he print out though.
Where do the spring rub ? If there rubbing on the front of the bump stops in the center of the springs the Delta arms could move the axle forward enough to alleviate that and dial back the caster at the same time.
Just a thought
Just a thought
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Delta arms are nice of course I don't have them 
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
I guess I’ll save for delta arms.
- Thread starter
- #370
Thats exactly where they are rubbing. Unfortunately ive got a few other projects that are higher up on the list and 1,400 on radius arms is making the delta arms a definite no go. I was looking at the Emkeith radius mounts to see if i can get them to work with my tt brackets or something. theyre only a hundred bucksWhere do the spring rub ? If there rubbing on the front of the bump stops in the center of the springs the Delta arms could move the axle forward enough to alleviate that and dial back the caster at the same time.
Just a thought
Ya there definitely spendy list time I looked they were $1000
I also thought about the Emkeith mounts but just looking at your pictures I didn’t think they would work.
I would definitely take the castor plates off and and see how it drives/ get numbers before moving forward with something else.
Your frame mounts to spring mounts measurements could be different from factory 80 series mounts making castor plate degrees ratings different.
- Thread starter
- #372
Yeah thats a great idea. If the Dobinsons caster plates are truly +5 degrees, taking them off will sit me at +1 ish without them, so ill be a little under the factory spec which i think is 3-4 degrees positive
factory spec is 1-3 or maybe I’m reading it wrong
- Thread starter
- #374
well, 3*... +- 1*
Ya, to me it doesn't make sense
3 degrees plus or minus 1, so 2-4
now I see it it's a + on top of a - I missed that part +/- 3* that's what I have all ways read on mud 2-4*Thank you
- Thread starter
- #378
Huge thank you to @TRAIL TAILOR for the updated radius arm brackets.
Without the caster plates I should be at about +1-+1.5 degrees of caster. These brackets add 1.75-2 degrees of caster, while only using the factory radius arms and no plates and no delta arms. Just as John Moses Toyota intended
The good thing is welding these on is absurdly easy because the way he’s designed them.
The bad thing is I have to cut the old ones off and since they’re designed so well (slanted lines down the frame, hole in the middle to weld for more strength and weld surface area on the frame)…. It’s going to take freaking forever to cut them off and grind smooth to weld the new ones on.
Oh well. This will let me ditch the ugly caster brackets, fix my caster in the front for good, and help me get my front springs from rubbing the front of my bump stop towers in the middle of my front coils. Also thinking of moving them a half inch more forward on the frame to push my axle forward ever so slightly
Without the caster plates I should be at about +1-+1.5 degrees of caster. These brackets add 1.75-2 degrees of caster, while only using the factory radius arms and no plates and no delta arms. Just as John Moses Toyota intended
The good thing is welding these on is absurdly easy because the way he’s designed them.
The bad thing is I have to cut the old ones off and since they’re designed so well (slanted lines down the frame, hole in the middle to weld for more strength and weld surface area on the frame)…. It’s going to take freaking forever to cut them off and grind smooth to weld the new ones on.
Oh well. This will let me ditch the ugly caster brackets, fix my caster in the front for good, and help me get my front springs from rubbing the front of my bump stop towers in the middle of my front coils. Also thinking of moving them a half inch more forward on the frame to push my axle forward ever so slightly
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- Thread starter
- #379
I was trying to race the sunset and forgot to take pics but 5 hours from start to finish to cut off the 2 brackets and weld the new ones on and reinstall the axle.
My alignment is all jacked up now, but let me tell ya. My truck is completely silent. The only noise it makes is from the spare tire chain rattling around. I had gotten so used to the loud creaky noise of the front springs rubbing that it’s kinda weird with the truck being so quiet now.
I can definitely tell a difference in the caster and steering feel. In a good way. My steering wheel would fight me if I took 90* turns too fast before but now it just feels like any old 80 series. Which was the goal in the first place.
Also, idk if it’s placebo but with the front springs sliding up the center of the bump stop towers on every bump, it added some harshness to the suspension. Now that they don’t rub it kinda feels a bit softer. I’m doing some side work on a pretty much stock 80 series right now and I took it for a spin after test driving my truck and my truck is significantly more stable and feels better. Will be interesting to see after I put a dobinsons suspension on the 80.
The only photo I took. Removing the radius arms is kinda sketchy with everything attached to the truck still
My alignment is all jacked up now, but let me tell ya. My truck is completely silent. The only noise it makes is from the spare tire chain rattling around. I had gotten so used to the loud creaky noise of the front springs rubbing that it’s kinda weird with the truck being so quiet now.
I can definitely tell a difference in the caster and steering feel. In a good way. My steering wheel would fight me if I took 90* turns too fast before but now it just feels like any old 80 series. Which was the goal in the first place.
Also, idk if it’s placebo but with the front springs sliding up the center of the bump stop towers on every bump, it added some harshness to the suspension. Now that they don’t rub it kinda feels a bit softer. I’m doing some side work on a pretty much stock 80 series right now and I took it for a spin after test driving my truck and my truck is significantly more stable and feels better. Will be interesting to see after I put a dobinsons suspension on the 80.
The only photo I took. Removing the radius arms is kinda sketchy with everything attached to the truck still
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Curious how your alignment numbers will end up. Awesome fix.
