Builds 6.0 Vortec LQ9 - FJ60 Engine Swap - Old Blue's Heart Transplant (2 Viewers)

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- Oil Pressure Sender Unit -

I’m utilizing the old sending unit off the FJ with a Mark’s adapter as mentioned in a previous post. Here it is.

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Therefore, for me I just utilized the exact wire off the old harness that was originally hooked up to the above Oil Pressure Sender.

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Its that wire above with the big black boot on it - left hand side.

- Coolant Temperature Sensor -

This is the Coolant temp Sensor wire on the old motor & right underneath that wire is the Coolant Temperature Sensor.

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Once again I used a Mark’s Adapter and fitted the actual sensor into the Vortec head like so.

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Just utilize that grungy old wire above on the the FJ harness and you’re in business. (I clipped it and ran new cleaner wire) But ya get the jist.
 
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Very interesting. I'm curious why you went with normal exhaust manifolds and not block hugger style headers for your exhaust.

Eventually I hope to get my 62 to Valley Hybrids / Cruiser Bros to have a 6.0L Vortec swapped in. Lotsa dough though.
 
Very interesting. I'm curious why you went with normal exhaust manifolds and not block hugger style headers for your exhaust.

Eventually I hope to get my 62 to Valley Hybrids / Cruiser Bros to have a 6.0L Vortec swapped in. Lotsa dough though.

I just went with what I knew would work. My time is pretty limited so I didnt really have the time to play around with different setups that may or may not work. I’m also not building this in the comfort of my own garage, so once again time and space come into play.

I’m not sure if Block Huggers will actually clear the frame. Perhaps they do. Also not sure what would be involved to clear motor mounts or what motor mounts work with block huggers or if fabrication is involved. But I knew beforehand the Camaro manifolds would. Its not by much as far as frame goes.
 
Good info on the details, wiring and etc. Those things are great info for folks. I think a big plus for exhaust manifolds (GM / OEM) is that they last forever and they seal. Also less likely to have as much of a radiated heat issue with manifolds vs. headers and fewer issues with plug wires melting...etc.
 
I’ll return to electrical and add to the above posts when I’m near motor and can get a few pics.

Something that confused me on my motor was this vaccum brake booster port. Its the nipple coming off the back of the intake. Has the red plastic o-Ring attached.

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And is suppose to route to this hard line here.

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The problem is the sizes are night and day and an adapter to mate such hose variations is a stretch.

Another strange quirk I noticed when goofing around with the motor was I had 3 lines coming out of my Power Steering pump /
Resevoir. Typically there are only 2.

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I can’t speak for other motors or what comes with them. But the 6.0 LQ9 had a hydro-boost brake system that utilized the power steering to assist braking.

That nipple on the back of the intake can actually pop off, if you pull the red clip forward and slide out the Hydro-Boost fitting. A standard fitting that comes
On other makes of vortecs can simply be inserted in its place. It makes connecting the vaccum line to the toyota hardline easy.

The top most output line on the power steering unit gets capped off.

Other option is to do a conversion from
The yota braking system to a hydro-boost system. Something I’m sure could be done. But wasnt of interest to me for the time being.
 
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This little green cap on top of the motor is the purge solenoid. (I didn’t know what it was myself). You’ll notice a tube running off it to the right. That dumps out at the back of the motor. This is where you tie in your FJ charcoal canister.

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3 options here -

Option 1- Tie the end of the tube into the Yota designated hardline from the original charcoal canister. You’ll find this line goes from passanger side firewall to driver side and spits out under your brake master cylinder.

Option 2 - remove the entire hardline from firewall and tie in directly to the charcoal canister.

Option 3 - remove the entire plastic vortec tube and FJ Hardline and run a vaccum hose from pitge solenoid directly to charcoal canister. This was the option I chose.

Here is the hose from original charcoal canister to firewall hardline.

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Tie into this hose.

The Charcoal Canister has 4 open ports on it. (3 on top - 1 on bottom). The one on the bottom fed a hose into the frame as a breather I believe. You can run the hose or just leave it open with no hose. The largest port on the top gets plugged. For the two remaining ports one of em goes to the hardline above that dumps out under the brake master cylinder and gets connected to the green cap purge solenoid tube or however you wish to implement it. The second port attatches to a hose that runs to the back of the vehicle. I believe to fuel tank? I’ll get a pic up of the canister with hoses coming out.

Here is one with the top ports.

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Black port gets plugged.

Theres an electrical aspect to the Charcoal Canister that I’ll cover in the previous electrical section.
 
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Find someone with a GM 2500 HD pickup with the 6.0 gas engine...to check out OEM routing...etc.
 
Waiting for some AC hoses to get crimped. So decided to tackle a long overdue interior issue while I wait.

The old dash is gently used.

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New Dash Cap installed.

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Hooked up a ODB II

Just one error code on the motor

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Not exactly sure its something to worry about. According this explanation.

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Wondering if it has something to do with me
Just running the old Coolant Temp Sensor
Off the FJ.

Guess I’ll research it a bit more.
 
You don’t have to GM sensor in the driver’s side cylinder head?
 
There is another spot on the other head if i remember correctly

Driver side running the stock fJ one. Passanger side looks like it has a port on the
rear of the head thats plugged.

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