Builds 6.0 Vortec LQ9 - FJ60 Engine Swap - Old Blue's Heart Transplant (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

Yes. The PCM needs to know the water temp for open loop/closed loop.

The heads are the same one is just spun around for the other side. They aren’t mirrored.

 

[yukon721]

Yes. The PCM needs to know the water temp for open loop/closed loop.

The heads are the same one is just spun around for the other side. They aren’t mirrored.

Copy that. Now if I can find the Vortec sensor I took off. Heh.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

If you cant they aren't to expensive

 

[yukon721]

Problem solved! Thank you.

 

[gregnash]

Awesome dude! No codes at all!

 

[Elbert]

whats your scan tool say regarding coolant temp....? Looks like you may have solved things.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Driver side running the stock fJ one. Passanger side looks like it has a port on the
rear of the head thats plugged.

View attachment 1792528

View attachment 1792527

This should be reversed. GM temp sender for the ECM should be on the drivers side, use the plug on the passenger side for the gauge sender.

 

[yukon721]

This should be reversed. GM temp sender for the ECM should be on the drivers side, use the plug on the passenger side for the gauge sender.

Yeah. No way the Vortec Harness will reach passanger side. Modified it a bit just to reach driver side. All good.

 

[yukon721]

whats your scan tool say regarding coolant temp....? Looks like you may have solved things.

Yeah. Its reading coolant temp just fine.

 

[cruisermatt]

I drove mine today!
When is your first drive scheduled?

 

[yukon721]

Well its just about time for to trailer her up and get some exhaust. Only thing left is putting on the hood and wiring up the brake switch.

Hood clearance has been on my mind since the begining - and as it turns out i’m shy about 3/4 of inch from my plastic top cover.

Could shave plastic or not run the covers - but that would look terrible. So decided to break out the grinder.

Fresh coat - still drying. Also had to drill out two holes for the two bolt heads that hold my top radiator brackets on so hood would sit flush when closed.

Patiently Waiting

 

[yukon721]

On to brake switch. And still on brake switch.

First I needed to bore out the original brake switch bolt hole. No easy task. Its above the steering column up under the dash. Its too tight for a drill. So had to utilize this contraption.

Much easier

Here is the stock brake switch - 2 wires.

Here is the new switch - 4 wires / terminals. One set of 2 for brake switch.

Other set of 2 for this guy

 

[yukon721]

Installed

I have the two stock FJ brake switch wires on the left hand terminal. Then the “TCC Power key-on no-power brake on” wire (purple) & full time power supply (red wire) that is spliced off my full time power wire that runs from alternator to fuse block in the cab.

Problem is ......

it doesnt work. No brake lights or tail lights. And not sure if the TOrque Converter terminals are working either. Swapped the Old FJ wires around - still nothing. So at this point i’m scratching my head a bit. I suppose the new switch may be faulty? Or I’m just missing something. No blown fuses.

 

[yukon721]

I drove mine today!
When is your first drive scheduled?

Awesome! Congrats.
Hopefully soon! Should be next week.

 

[cruisermatt]

Why aren’t you doing the exhaust yourself? You did everything else.

Sorry I don’t have any advice on the TCC switch. Did you check with a meter?

 

[yukon721]

Why aren’t you doing the exhaust yourself? You did everything else.

Sorry I don’t have any advice on the TCC switch. Did you check with a meter?

Yeah has power. Exhaust it really comes down to being out of time. I have a 9 month old & crazy busy business. Not to mention my truck is being built 1 1/2 hours away from home. So its been living on borowwed time for quite some time. Just gonna hit the easy button on this last part.

If I had my own garage and it was sitting at home where I could wrench whenever I felt like it, things would be different. But......

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I would check with a meter as matt said. See witch terminals have continuity when the brake is pushed.

 

[yukon721]

No idea what to do with this thing.

Theres continuity between the 2 left terminals when the brake is pressed. continuity between the right two terminals when the brake is released.

Therefore, its my assumption the left 2 terminalS are for brake lights, right 2 terminal for torque converter.

I stopped messing with the torque converter wire and the hot wire from the Alternator and am focusing strictly on the two stock wires off the old brake switch. They do absolutley nothing. Regardless of the configuration I hook em up. No brake lights, no tail lights, no back side lights.

Checked the 2 stock wires for power. Both have zero power. I would assume one should? Lost......

Last thing that needs to be done too. Guess i can run it with zero back lights. (Till shes put into service) Concern is if lights arent working on switch is the torque converter gonna work or just stall out the truck. Guess it should be fine as both switch sets of terminals seem independent.

Can i just jump a hot wire from the torque converter power teminal to the brake light terminal to get power over there and maybe get brale lights working. No idea.

 

[pandasfj]

Just a guess but one set is normally closed and the other normally open?

 

[yukon721]

.