Looking awesome!
Builds 6.0 Vortec LQ9 - FJ60 Engine Swap - Old Blue's Heart Transplant (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter yukon721
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #202
Well its been a while since last post. But managed to tackle a few things this week.
Painted a few items. Battery holder, charcoal canister & AC Drier bracket.
Charcoal Canister
Installed
Got the tube that connects to the AC condesor brazed with a new barb fitting to
Run my new hose.
Be even cooler if the damn nut didn’t have screwed up threads and began stripping my new condensor. Back to the drawing board.
Painted a few items. Battery holder, charcoal canister & AC Drier bracket.
Charcoal Canister
Installed
Got the tube that connects to the AC condesor brazed with a new barb fitting to
Run my new hose.
Be even cooler if the damn nut didn’t have screwed up threads and began stripping my new condensor. Back to the drawing board.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #203
Got my top brackets to my radiator finished and installed. Can finally say the radiators done 3 flap discs later. Thorn in my side. Forgot to take a pic. Get one up tomorrow.
Starred at my old wiring harness for a bit and decided to get rid of all the garbage.
Unraveled the harness and pulled all the unnecessary wire through firewall and deleted em for good.
Cut my inner fender to fit my air filter. Still need to clean up some edges before housing the filter in a box. But its all bolted / clamped up so she’ll work nicely once finished.
Lots of other stuff. But nothing worth talking about. When do we hear it run? I’ve stopped giving out estimates. Heh. Sooner than later is the safest answer.
Starred at my old wiring harness for a bit and decided to get rid of all the garbage.
Unraveled the harness and pulled all the unnecessary wire through firewall and deleted em for good.
Cut my inner fender to fit my air filter. Still need to clean up some edges before housing the filter in a box. But its all bolted / clamped up so she’ll work nicely once finished.
Lots of other stuff. But nothing worth talking about. When do we hear it run? I’ve stopped giving out estimates. Heh. Sooner than later is the safest answer.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 585
- Messages
- 16,546
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
What is your charcoal canister bolted to in that picture?
I put mine in the same spot but made a new clamp for it.
I put mine in the same spot but made a new clamp for it.
- Thread starter
- #205
I just utilized the two bolt holes that hold one of the hardlines to the firewall. Utilized a couple L brackets and tied em in where the old canister clamps / bolts together.
- Thread starter
- #206
Radiator Brackets - these are the Summit Universal brackets for griffen. Added rubber blocks, drilled and inset bolts into the rubber and through the bracket so it wouldnt go anywhere. The bracket needed about a 1/2 drop to bolt to front clip so welded a half inch of metal plate to em. Then realized where they bolt is actually stamped from factory and has a few offset humps in it so utilized flap discs to shave down where the humps are. The brackets and rubber sit at the far edges of radiator in the valley so they butt up against the actual core to prevent any side to side movement. Its solid!
Underneath i’m running a large piece of channel as shown in previous post. Bolted to frame and the shroud is then bolted through channel 3/4” below core on radiator.
Undercarriage. I utilized a clip on the plastic housing that the battery cable rests in to support my trans cooler lines as the old bracket off vortec no longer works. May come up with another solution but this seems to work for now.
Underneath i’m running a large piece of channel as shown in previous post. Bolted to frame and the shroud is then bolted through channel 3/4” below core on radiator.
Undercarriage. I utilized a clip on the plastic housing that the battery cable rests in to support my trans cooler lines as the old bracket off vortec no longer works. May come up with another solution but this seems to work for now.
- Thread starter
- #207
Little off topic but.. ordered a couple new struts for the rear hatch. No more props will be needed. Be a nice 20 minute install break from the motor.
May add struts to the hood as well and delete the old hinges. Altho i’ve heard mixed reviews on struts on hoods keeping their strength in cold weather. Which living in Lake Tahoe I see quite a bit of.
Cut off old side mount system off my battery cables and switched to top post mount. Hate side mounts.
Damn near out of room on the passenger side. Still need to mount the overflow tank for radiator. Guessing it’ll have to go here somehow. Gnarly scar on my arm is from when A dirt bike chain & sprocket decided to eat through it. Glad its still attached to perform this crucial placement.
May add struts to the hood as well and delete the old hinges. Altho i’ve heard mixed reviews on struts on hoods keeping their strength in cold weather. Which living in Lake Tahoe I see quite a bit of.
Cut off old side mount system off my battery cables and switched to top post mount. Hate side mounts.
Damn near out of room on the passenger side. Still need to mount the overflow tank for radiator. Guessing it’ll have to go here somehow. Gnarly scar on my arm is from when A dirt bike chain & sprocket decided to eat through it. Glad its still attached to perform this crucial placement.
Last edited:
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Looks like you are getting there quickly dude!!!
- Thread starter
- #209
Anyone with a Lokar shifter? My shifter button does not fully retract and lock out in any gear except park. Which allows it to shift without pushing the button. Anyone else ran into this issue or know why it may be doing so. Guess I’ll call Lokar, but I usually find 40% of my solutions on ih8mud, the other 60% of my questions/solutions/parts are derived @FJ60Cam. He prob hates me by now. Haha.
- Thread starter
- #210
- Thread starter
- #211
Re-Vamped Old harness. Will all be routed inside fender. Out of site, out of mind.
I did... as i had to bent the shaft to get full range on all gears...(tuffy box got on the way)
Decided to gut it, and instead put a piggy shifter on it...
- Thread starter
- #213
Hmm. Yeah I didnt bend or alter it in anyway. Prob give lokar a call.
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
Question..... Love the shifter but I'd rather not drop my tranny. Could this be installed without dropping the whole transmission?
Totally could. You’d just have to pull the transmission hump.
- Thread starter
- #216
I’m running a 4l60e trans so can only speak for it. This particular Lokar is a floor mount shifter. So yes it can be mounted without dropping a tranny. I believe you can also get the Lokar mechanical shifter (sub floor) and mount it without dropping tranny as well. But don’t quote me as I only have experience with the cable driven, floor mount.
I ordered the 16” model and its to tall for floor mount. I did some fabricating to actually make it sit below the floor as shown in previous posts. They also make a 12” model which may be a better choice if you just want to mount it to the floor and be done with it.
Now if you go with their mechanical sub floor model then 16” is perfect.
Yukon721,
I've been following along with your build and enjoying your work. I'd like to suggest a different style battery clamp. I've used those in the past and had bad connections over time. Here is the type I'm using now and really like them...https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW
Keep up the good work!
I've been following along with your build and enjoying your work. I'd like to suggest a different style battery clamp. I've used those in the past and had bad connections over time. Here is the type I'm using now and really like them...https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW
Keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #218
Nice. I’ll give em a look. These were a $4 purchase at Ace Hardware in the bolt aisle. (Where I spend my free time - haha) Plan on implementing a better system down the road. These are the “get the damn thing running version”
Idaho Savage
GOLD Star
I have the same tranny and saw your custom mount. All I know I'd the stock shifter is loose goose, sloppy and not a great option. Thanks for the inspiration.
- Thread starter
- #220
UPDATE
Called Lokar - They say that the shifter is designed to only lock out in Park & Neutral. I can't remember if mine locks out in neutral but I know it does in park. Seems like you should have to push the top button to switch in between all gears. Maybe it just feels like that since its feels more like a stick shift. Been a while since i've played with an automatic shifter but maybe that is the way they all are. Anyways, guess there is nothing wrong with the shifter after all. Just don't overanalyze it. heh
Also was pretty worried about having stripped the AC condenser and finding a new fitting / whole new curly AC condenser line as shown in a previous post. Turns out the rubber line that attached to that curly hardline had the exact same fitting on the other end of it. Cut it off and luckily it screws right on to condenser no problem. Which means just need to cut the old fitting off, slide the good one on and re-braze a new barb on the end of the curly hardline. Could've been a lot worse.
Moral of the story - Save every damn piece that comes off the FJ. Some of those parts are worth their weight in gold when ya need em.
Called Lokar - They say that the shifter is designed to only lock out in Park & Neutral. I can't remember if mine locks out in neutral but I know it does in park. Seems like you should have to push the top button to switch in between all gears. Maybe it just feels like that since its feels more like a stick shift. Been a while since i've played with an automatic shifter but maybe that is the way they all are. Anyways, guess there is nothing wrong with the shifter after all. Just don't overanalyze it. heh
Also was pretty worried about having stripped the AC condenser and finding a new fitting / whole new curly AC condenser line as shown in a previous post. Turns out the rubber line that attached to that curly hardline had the exact same fitting on the other end of it. Cut it off and luckily it screws right on to condenser no problem. Which means just need to cut the old fitting off, slide the good one on and re-braze a new barb on the end of the curly hardline. Could've been a lot worse.
Moral of the story - Save every damn piece that comes off the FJ. Some of those parts are worth their weight in gold when ya need em.
Last edited:
