crushers
post ho
you're such a romantic.
50 Series?? (Shorty 55)
- Thread starter Delancy
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- Thread starter
- #102
I am, at heart.
Recent request for more funds from current shop working on '72 has strengthened my resolve to become more proficient in Pig-skinning.
Going to spend some time inspecting what's left of the '71 donor, that is the proposed pork chopped pig, primarily to see what options there may be for removing the roof skin only, from '71, for '72, and leaving the substructure, intact.
Have a few ideas to pose, mostly regarding transitions, but what I'm curious about now is caging.
I realize body's don't mount direct to the frame for a reason, but would there be a way to isolate at the rocker, if the rocker were structural tube that connected to the frame?
crushers
post ho
frames flex, sheet metal fatigues.
keep them isolated.
keep them isolated.
crushers
post ho
you can do cage to sheet metal, under sheet metal you do a rubber pad with a mount that matches the one the frame is based on. run 4 bolts through. this allows the sheet metal to float minutely and yet gives a firm base to the cage.
LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
hey- that's NOT my truck...where'd you find that? my rig looked just like that for about a week...only blue
- Thread starter
- #109
crushers
post ho
looks like exfire truck with pumper removed ...
- Thread starter
- #112
crushers
post ho
looks like a 40 series light with the base trimmed
- Thread starter
- #114
Closer inspection, thinking I'll revert back to the VWs..
This was what I had thought about doing on the '76, but does look kinda funky without the faux vents.
Be good for the Shorty though, if it'll be a topless fair weather wheeler.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
You keep including that one...
- Thread starter
- #116
I'm a sucker, no ifs, ands, but butts about it....
Recently added to classifieds.
See how the cage is attached at the wheel well?
Best way to go about it?
Any way to tie a cage to the a pillar, or replace a pillar to avoid interference?
Attaching to the floor is the easiest way to go as long as there is enough attachment points. Attaching to the frame is the strongest but involves a lot more work. But face it... If you roll it over all kinds of sheet metal will be toast, most likely the whole body. The cage will save you but not the truck. If you plan on wheeling like a mad man and not caring about sheet metal attach it the frame. If you are putting a cage in for the "if" factor just attach it to the floor.
crushers
post ho
to me it depends on where and what kind of wheeling you do.
i have no cages in my trucks but then i don't wheel where you could endo a number of times before hitting the bottom of the hill.
we could get into a debate about full cage, half cage, no cage ...
the cage should protect the occupants so determine you type of wheeling and go from there.
i wheeled in the mountains with some hills close to 800' long and felt perfectly safe with the factory 40 cage. i wheeled in Colorado above the tree line and it made me nervous. at the same time full cages make me nervous as well.
large foot print attached to sheet metal will take a lot to ripe completely free of the rest of the body.
i have no cages in my trucks but then i don't wheel where you could endo a number of times before hitting the bottom of the hill.
we could get into a debate about full cage, half cage, no cage ...
the cage should protect the occupants so determine you type of wheeling and go from there.
i wheeled in the mountains with some hills close to 800' long and felt perfectly safe with the factory 40 cage. i wheeled in Colorado above the tree line and it made me nervous. at the same time full cages make me nervous as well.
large foot print attached to sheet metal will take a lot to ripe completely free of the rest of the body.
- Thread starter
- #119
Only purpose for cage consideration was to offer some protection that'll be removed with the roof from the b pillar back, if going topless, plus attachment points for rear belts, IF rear seats will even fit.
I don't beat on any wheeler and realize that if it topples, it's gonna be bad for this Pig. More the concern was affording some protection that the roof would've.
I don't beat on any wheeler and realize that if it topples, it's gonna be bad for this Pig. More the concern was affording some protection that the roof would've.
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crushers
post ho
if that is the case then the problem will be the strength of the C and D pillers and roof gone. it is not just the tin cage that is gone it is also the walls now have nothing holding them together, picture a H and then a V and you will see what i mean.
if you mount to the top of the wheel well then leverage of the cage pushing down will actual accentuate the issue in the event of a roll over.
in you case i would suggest you go to the floor with rubber issolators on each side of the sheet metal and then down to the frame. there will be little strength in the sheet metal. stay away from the wheel well period.
just my suggestion.
rethink any front hoop or at least give me a call so we chat about it.
cheers and looking forward to more of the build.
if you mount to the top of the wheel well then leverage of the cage pushing down will actual accentuate the issue in the event of a roll over.
in you case i would suggest you go to the floor with rubber issolators on each side of the sheet metal and then down to the frame. there will be little strength in the sheet metal. stay away from the wheel well period.
just my suggestion.
rethink any front hoop or at least give me a call so we chat about it.
cheers and looking forward to more of the build.
