5.3l, nv4500, np205, centered rea mini hybid driveline length questions

[gpfj40]

For what it's worth I mounted my LS at least 3 inches higher than you have in that pic. I chose to do this to keep the t case high and pointed down 4*. The slope was helpful with keeping the short rear driveshaft angles functional. I also could not see the easy way to route the PS exhaust given the PS front driveshaft, so I routed it forward around the front part of the oil pan to the DS; this created clearance issues with the front diff that required the engine height I chose as well. The AC pump was taken off very early in the test fitting. I don't feel the extra height compromised stability. I had to remove the top Vortec cover cause the hood wouldn't close with it on. There are more details in my build thread if you are interested.

 

[aandy767]

Thanks, I've been working on the rear links right now and will come back to the front shortly. Need to put the front axle at full bump and mount the power steering gear box. Had to go too school for a couple of days, had to work a couple also.

 

[aandy767]

well gpfj40 I'd like to say I'm right behind you. But OMG I've got a lot of work to do.

 

[Tin basher]

i like to keep the motor and drivetrain as low as possible low COG helps with stability
Get your front three link in before finalizing motor mounts
The upper link mount and front driveshaft want to occupy the same space
I offset the engine to drivers side a couple inches to get driveshaft to clear
I'm running a small block 465/203/205 doubler
I build everything with the suspension at full compression that way you know everything clears
For your steering box ?
I'm running a box from a s10 with a pitman arm from
A 90s jeep Cherokee
And a Cherokee box in one of my other fj40
I don't know if the box is the same in your parts burb
The sector shaft could be different and limit your choices of pitman arms something to check before using it
The mounting pattern could be different as well
The older box fits out of just about everything making finding a replacement box in the middle of nowhere so much easier

 

[aandy767]

Thanks,

Three links are in in the front.

Neighbor had a steering gearbox from a chevelle. Making a mount for it, everything else has a heave tack weld.
Welded the front axle to the frame at full compression, made it easy. Pulled the AC compressor off.

 

[aandy767]

Much easier to do things once.

Well had to redo the engine mounts once, just didn't like the way they where the first go around.

 

[aandy767]

Working on power steering gearbox mount. Kept the hook on top.

 

[Mace]

Not going to ever replace those rusty bolts?

 

[aandy767]

gonna cut them flush and paint em. They actually looked pretty good except for the ends. welded in from the underside.

 

[Mace]

It'd be better to weld nuts to the inside.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

wow, build advice and advice as to where to put your nuts.

 

[dude47]

So For what it is worth my rear driveshaft is about 21" long and I have no issues with it. I have a 5.3L/700r4/AA/Orion. The engine is mounted with a slight angle from the drives side in front to the pass side in rear to give more room for the front drive shaft. I 4 linked the back and pushed the axle aft. What I did was find a front drive shaft off a V6 4runner. Has a toyota CV in it and it was the correct length. I took it apart and ground of the flanges to give more clearance and allow for a higher angle. You can find info on this online. The drive shafts cost me all of $30 from a junk yard and I have no vibe issues. I bought 3 thinking hell if I break 1 I have spares. That was 2 years ago and a bunch of smashing on rocks and I have yet to break the first one I put in.

 

[ferg]

wow, build advice and advice as to where to put your nuts.

Some people do need help with that.

 

[aandy767]

A little progress on the body extension
and floor

 

[aandy767]

And a box / stiffener to mount the seats on and give the floor some support

 

[aandy767]

Gas tank fill will have to be sorted also.

I've got a 2x2 square tube under the new floor and that box is the same height as the rear bed. I don't know if I'll use the factory seat mounts, but it seemed like a good idea to support the front floor mostly. Between the transmission hole and the floor I added there's not a lot of support.

 

[aandy767]

Also stuck a piece of 3/8 x 1 1/4" flat bar inside the top rail. The profile of the top rail box should be plenty strong, but I thought it would be nice to have something solid to weld to and hammer against. drilled and put several rosette welds down the rail.

 

[aandy767]

Eastwood bead roller worked ok, that middle bead will be a good reason to monstaliner the inside, and underside. Harbor Freight break is just a little lite. A larger break would have given much better bends. I need a little extra hammer and dolly work and hopefully not to much body filler.

 

[aandy767]

Need to do a little trimming

 

[aandy767]

A little cut and fold