5.3l, nv4500, np205, centered rea mini hybid driveline length questions

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Axle truss on, working on brackets. and ordered Metacloak duraflex joints for front and rear. No turning back now.

More of a mount for upper link than a housing truss still 3/8"

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The rig on top sure looks like it'll rub, maybe everywhere.


found these

16'' LT 325/80R16 FALKEN WILD PEAK A/T 8PLY - $175

or these

16'' 315/75R16 FALKEN WILD PEAK A/T 8PLY - $170
 
the top picture is likely a 36" tire (36 14.5x15)

lower one? 285 75/16? (33s)

I ran 33s on a stock FJ40 and they rubbed on the back, front was fine...

315 is a 35" tire, 325 is a 37".... I run the former on my H3
 
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sorry I didn't see the question about the 4 link. You want the arms as close to the same length as possible. Preferably you will make them connect above and below your output shaft on the transfer case. If you do, the rear-most u-joint won't flex nor will you have to get a super-long slip joint because the arc traveled will maintain the same (within 1/2") length.

the problem with uneven lengths you can get some pretty annoying vibrations from the driveshaft as the suspension moves through its travel.

Also, the longer the better (though that is usually limited by where the transfer case is)...

if I don't answer - send me a PM...
 
The pinion only changes 3* with the setup you are proposing. Having shorter uppers than lowers is very common. Don't worry a single bit about it.

90% of suspension design on a 40 (or any other full bodied/framed rig) is where things fit. Adding tunability to the link locations is a benefit tho if you can do it.
 
if we were only talking about U-joint angle - then that would be fine, but using shorter upper control arms negatively affects a cars instant center. I agree that everything is a compromise with what fits, but optimal is equal length arms so that when you hit the throttle you don't get body separation or squat (thereby losing traction). Furthermore, by using longer arms you get a far more comfortable ride, better handling (because you have less inherent resistance to roll), and less wear of the upper joints. Oh, and you also get less tire shake - which, is less on dirt but happens on hard surface like rocks)....
 
A buddy of mine once said that the "IC height is a number you use to create another number and it's something you really can't feel like AS"
I haven't seen (or felt) anything that disagrees with that.

IMHO get your numbers where you think they should be (throughout wheel travel) and go wheel.
 
Well, the same guy built the 4 link calculator you guys are using so..
 
I don't get it Mace, is there a point to any of your posts? no one bothered answering the OP's post. I answer two weeks later, then here you are - within hours.
 
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Mace said:
A buddy of mine once said that the "IC height is a number you use to create another number and it's something you really can't feel like AS"
I haven't seen (or felt) anything that disagrees with that.

IMHO get your numbers where you think they should be (throughout wheel travel) and go wheel.
Click to expand...

IC is the number that tells you whether or not you'll get smokey burnouts or traction. Manipulating that number can make a huge difference as to whether or not your vehicle is a race car, trailer queen, or maintains status as pro-jackstand. Just like the artificial horizon in an airplane - it will tell you what you may be feeling incorrectly... but you're welcome argue with it, to your own peril.
 
Lol. Peril..
 
Well, we spent most of the summer rebuilding my son's amc360 in his grand wagoner, long story shop gave us the wrong rings made no compression, next lifters got pumped up valves hit the heads, next valve job and new comp cam and it runs better than ever.

need tires

and need to get back to work on the 40

Screen Shot 2016-08-26 at 10.39.44 AM.webp
 
I like the look of the pro comp tires, and there is $50 more coming in the mail with the BFGs and pro comps.

And BFGs look right on a 40.

On looks I like the pro comp, 60K tire I like.

Will the BFGs go 60K? I'm sure they are a quality tire. We just put BFG Mts on the kids Wagoneer

Any thoughts on which way to go?
 
I'm a big BFG fan. I have them on the Tow rig, and have been running the previous version of the BFG KO since I built my 60.

I am not a huge fan of Pro Comp tires personally.

I'd go KO2 if I were you.
 
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