5.3l, nv4500, np205, centered rea mini hybid driveline length questions
- Thread starter aandy767
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aandy767
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- Thread starter
- #163
I love them. I've got some death wobble up front. first 1000 miles were good. I found a weak joint on my track bar, got much better. now I think i have worn parts again.
I know sometimes new shocks can improve the wobble. I don't think the ORIs are making it worse. Jury is still out.
Rides like a dream. I added an anti roll bar in the back think Roc Jock style. .81 thick. I had some body roll under hard acceleration, and hard turns. Very good manners with sway bar.
They are awesome. The last fix I will try on the wobble will be coil overs. I really hope it doesn't come to that.
Coming back to check this out.
aandy767
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #166
Update, on several mods or repairs.
Ten years latter, four years on the road. 25,000 mile later.
ORI's with a rear anti sway bar, drive like a dream. runs 75 all day long. 4 link and 3 link work well. ((wondering if I should sent them in for Rebuild.))
Swapped the cut down LS harness for one from PSI. Engine died once in Moab, swapped for reliability. (very reliable)
I probably knew it wasn't a good idea, the internal slave blew in Lubbock, had to start it in gear and shift on the fly.
Switch to a Quik draw bell housing, supper nice piece. Absolutely no support, they show a 3/4" bore slave, it's a little bit bigger. wanted to verify so ordered one, it's the same size as the parts house here. like 13/16. they never responded. Also they have too many holes for nv4500, fits all years so I think I had to use nuts and blots on 2 holes instead of studs. Don't get me wrong supper nice piece. I'd buy another if I needed one.
Dakota digital works great, got a module to run the 2 speed torus fan from them.
Running a Champion 3 row, what a story here. On an adventure Fort Worth to Denver, had some overheating issues (I thought). climbing Pikes Peak had shut down too cool several times. Rig ran ok in Texas heat for the next year, next summer back to Ouray. over heating again. CRAPPY CHAMPION RAD CAP. replaced cap. Still a little warm now and then. My circle track buddy says he doesn't think it's really running hot. I had Dakota set to go red at 210, then swapped to red at 220. Side story here 2003 5.3l takes temp on drivers head, doesn't show up in ECU data. I hooked up my 2017 silverado to the ECU and it went straight to 219 on the iPad (cool day normal driving), driving across town. Next trip to Colorado I let her eat. I mean heat. Ran all day across west Texas, 220 all day. Once near Taos she got to 235+ so I pulled over for 5 minutes. Next day checked the radiator and still full.
Im set up for AC so I still might swap radiators, got one from summit scratch and dent. A bigger one.
Death wobble, I thought my front drive shaft was long enough and lift low enough I wouldn't need a cut and turn. I swapped to an FJ62 front axle. Ih8mud, might lead a fellow to think the 62 axle piñon points up at the transfer case. I think it does, giving me a much better Caster angle and solving all problems, including getting rid of spacers in front..
Rear axle FJ80 cut down on long side to center rear diff for np205. After 6k miles started breaking axle flange bolts. Replaced and broke some more. I spent a lot of time machining pucks and ordered a precision ground rod to get it straight. Cut through 80 percent of the axle housing and rewarded.
It still was not perfect. So I laid on some heavy beads for heat bend. Seems to be staying straight now, 10-15K miles since repair.
I have some goofy cameras mounted on my mirrors. Got a Teyes radio head for surround view on screen. Really cool.
I've got a frame for a soft top, but will have to get a custom top as my rig is 10cm longer than a fj43.
See you at LSLC round up this week, and solid axle summit this Summer.
Ten years latter, four years on the road. 25,000 mile later.
ORI's with a rear anti sway bar, drive like a dream. runs 75 all day long. 4 link and 3 link work well. ((wondering if I should sent them in for Rebuild.))
Swapped the cut down LS harness for one from PSI. Engine died once in Moab, swapped for reliability. (very reliable)
I probably knew it wasn't a good idea, the internal slave blew in Lubbock, had to start it in gear and shift on the fly.
Switch to a Quik draw bell housing, supper nice piece. Absolutely no support, they show a 3/4" bore slave, it's a little bit bigger. wanted to verify so ordered one, it's the same size as the parts house here. like 13/16. they never responded. Also they have too many holes for nv4500, fits all years so I think I had to use nuts and blots on 2 holes instead of studs. Don't get me wrong supper nice piece. I'd buy another if I needed one.
Dakota digital works great, got a module to run the 2 speed torus fan from them.
Running a Champion 3 row, what a story here. On an adventure Fort Worth to Denver, had some overheating issues (I thought). climbing Pikes Peak had shut down too cool several times. Rig ran ok in Texas heat for the next year, next summer back to Ouray. over heating again. CRAPPY CHAMPION RAD CAP. replaced cap. Still a little warm now and then. My circle track buddy says he doesn't think it's really running hot. I had Dakota set to go red at 210, then swapped to red at 220. Side story here 2003 5.3l takes temp on drivers head, doesn't show up in ECU data. I hooked up my 2017 silverado to the ECU and it went straight to 219 on the iPad (cool day normal driving), driving across town. Next trip to Colorado I let her eat. I mean heat. Ran all day across west Texas, 220 all day. Once near Taos she got to 235+ so I pulled over for 5 minutes. Next day checked the radiator and still full.
Im set up for AC so I still might swap radiators, got one from summit scratch and dent. A bigger one.
Death wobble, I thought my front drive shaft was long enough and lift low enough I wouldn't need a cut and turn. I swapped to an FJ62 front axle. Ih8mud, might lead a fellow to think the 62 axle piñon points up at the transfer case. I think it does, giving me a much better Caster angle and solving all problems, including getting rid of spacers in front..
Rear axle FJ80 cut down on long side to center rear diff for np205. After 6k miles started breaking axle flange bolts. Replaced and broke some more. I spent a lot of time machining pucks and ordered a precision ground rod to get it straight. Cut through 80 percent of the axle housing and rewarded.
It still was not perfect. So I laid on some heavy beads for heat bend. Seems to be staying straight now, 10-15K miles since repair.
I have some goofy cameras mounted on my mirrors. Got a Teyes radio head for surround view on screen. Really cool.
I've got a frame for a soft top, but will have to get a custom top as my rig is 10cm longer than a fj43.
See you at LSLC round up this week, and solid axle summit this Summer.
you rig looked solid at round up! Cheers!
