Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (1 Viewer)

[cjmoon]

That is the part that has taken me a while to find also part number 451-1113 is #10 fitting. The mounting hole had to be slotted an 1/8". I am checking with them to see it it was made incorrectly or if it truly is just different but works for this application. From AP Air

The compressor fittings are for a gm product aftermarket nostalgic ac part number gm1610. This company had the pad mounts also but the cost was much more and I didn't have any reference to pilot size.

 

[cjmoon]

And I'm using a compressor for the 98 dodge 2500 12v. I was hoping to be able to use the original hoses but it was getting to Mickey Mouse for my liking.

 

[cjmoon]

well it's been a while figured id update the progress. Wiring almost done got my tranny rail pressure cable and throttle cables figured out as well as made a bracket for the TPS. It isn't the prettiest piece but I believe it will work. Made it pretty adjustable for testing and then plan on welding it solid to eliminate bolts that come loose

Brakes are bleed power steering all attached and bleed. Long list of small things but hope to have the first test drive within the month.

 

[cjmoon]

I am having the great battery debate with myself. Looks like a 34/78 is about the biggest I will be able to fit. Looks like I will need to make room for 2. I'm not planning on a round the world trip. And usually put Wally World batteries in my stuff but continue thinking AGM. One front one rear?

I will not be using the original battery tray. Ended up cutting the inner fender pretty good to make room. I knew it was a possibility with the larger innercooler I wanted to use. I will probably have to repeat for the second on the right side If I go that direction I will probably have to cut that one up too.

On a positive note all the tranny cooling lines are in and ready. The ac lines are in position just need to mark and have them crimped to finish them up.

Radiator hoses are 95 percent done stock 94-98 dodge top hose cut down works great. Have 2 options for the lower that should work well just need a coupler that's been ordered. If
I take it apart again I will weld a tight radias to the outlet to use the stock LC lower hose but that's hind sight

Finished the TPS and got it adjusted 50-1300 omes is full injection pump and rail pressure cable then a false input for the tranny computer to make it shift. Or at least that's the theory in my head hope to test it soon. All the linkage is hard to see. Planning on getting it working before getting details and better pictures.

 

[2fpower]

Always heard that batteries kept way back just don't have very good luck with long cables.

I just took the fenders off foo to paint and realized how much extra room there is in the fenders. Since you are alredy hacking it up, you might look at cutting a hole outboard of current location and just moving the battery outboard. would likely have to change to side terminal, GM style. Should work on both sides.

Also, seems like you have lots of depth in current area, how about going north south with the battery?

 

[cjmoon]

Interesting I'll have to take a closer look at pushing it further out.

Thought about n-s. But the fender steps up pretty quick behind the battery. I may look at dipping a battery tray down in the inner finder an inch or so which might help fit a larger battery. I just haven't wheeled with any 80s yet to figure out how hard it stuffs with different set ups.

 

[2fpower]

Seems like the inner fender is pretty bullet proof. Inner is steel and not the aluminum foil on most cars. Driver side fender comes off pretty easy and you can get an idea of what I am talking about.

 

[cjmoon]

It does look like there is a lot of room up there but for now I'm going to hold off on cutting the fender. I am going to use an old optima that is still in decent shape. Make a quick tray to hold it I n place with a strap and get it running and driving then look into two smaller dual batteries before winter to run the intake heater and get the CCA up a bit. In the heat one can handle it.

My goal is to have the my first start-up by the end of Saturday. I have been working on a bathroom remodel the last few weeks and told my wife Saturday is mine.... I think she said ok...

 

[cjmoon]

It started and moved under its own power. Not much more than that for today though.

Chasing a few small leaks. And need to bleed the injection pump. It idles inconsistently and low but I don't want to step it up till I'm positive all the air is out. I've chased my tale on that before.

All upload a YouTube video you can see that it's not to much shack and a higher idle will smooth it out more. Have a vibration damper and fluid mounts. Seems to move well with very little throutle input although I only pulled out of the garage and turned it around and back in.

Tach is not working maybe Dustin can chime in its plugged into the sensor that came with his adapter but it probably my wiring the original was 3 wires one was a shield. I left that off but maybe I need to connect or ground that at the sensor

Ran it long enough to warm it close to operating temps I don't have my fans wired up yet. But sensor reads

Well i call that a successful day. To bad I have to go out of town the rest of the weekend.

 

[cjmoon]

 

[scottryana]

Sounds good! Quieter in the cab then I would have thought. Great job!

 

[cnorm5623]

Congrats! Glad to see it running! Great work.

 

[cjmoon]

not going to lie it's quieter than i was thanking too (inside that is, we all know its a tractor from the outside). you see people put aftermarket or talk of the LX's extra sound dampening. seems to be splitting hairs. this is straight piped exiting under the right side near the transfercase. will be putting an Aero XL 3"

 

[2fpower]

Cool. Very impressed with lack of sound inside...

what is that I see at the end.....did you install lights under the hood?

 

[cjmoon]

Ya I have some eBay special Eagle eye led light pods or bars. Based on how I used them I wouldn't recommend. The don't surface mount from the front the have 3m tape and screw holes from the back side so I mounted them and a strip of aluminum using the screw holes then screwed the plate down. Not clean at all

They do put out some light. The only garage light I have on is a 60w above the hood which leaves the engine pretty dark without them. If I remember right they were about $15 shipped

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Motor sounds awesome!

Sorry if I've missed it earlier in the thread, but is that a drive pressure gauge on the PS of the head with the copper coil?

 

[cjmoon]

Yep. I'll use it more just for curiosity then remove it and always have the ability to put it back on. I was thinking about twin turbos. Not crazy just hood clean low and mid power. At one point.

So my fuel system may not be air problems like I thought. Thinking I advanced the timing to far. It will not start unless I crack all the injectors crank it over a few times close them up an then it will fire up. Even when it's warm. Basically the only changes to the motor were new injectors and I timed it the 1/8" from the timing mark. But after looking I am probably more at 3/16". hopefully I can get to retiming this weekend.

I continue working on exhaust and wiring. Got my pyro tranny temp and boost gauges hooked up last night.

 

[cjmoon]

Still having starting issues. So I have been doubling back and spending lots of time just not making progress.

Timing back to stock no change. Pulled lift pump to do a visual appears good installed fuel pressure gauge. Like right. Next step look for where air can get into the system. Going to open up the tank again check my pickup tube

I did drive around the block this last weekend. Shifted strong with the TransGo kit. Only slower speeds up the 3rd gear at this point. Starting to shape up Nicely. Just need it to start

I've been searching I remember someone having an air problem that they associate with the fuel return dumping to close to the pick up tube? Anyone remember that issue?

 

[floridan surfer]

I've been searching I remember aiming having an air problem that the associate with the fuel return dumping to close to the pick up tube? Anyone remember that issue?

Yeah, I remember reading something like that. Not here, I think it was on the 4BT swap site. I doubt that would be a problem unless your pick up/return has been modified. By the way, your fuel sock is not still attached is it? That was an issue for me a few months ago.

Do you have any clear fuel lines installed? That would be a big help for determining air leaks.

 

[cjmoon]

Do you have any clear fuel lines installed? That would be a big help for determining air leaks.

Was going to check lines in the tank. I don't have the sock or pump for that matter. Double clamp soft lines then put a clear line up to the lift pump.